20 Most Recent 2005 Buick LaCrosse Questions & Answers


I own a 2007 Buick Lacrosse, but I imported it to Paraguay, South America. Now I bought a new Engine Start Keyless Entry Remote from Amazon, but here we do not have any GM dealer to program the unit.
I really need help to program the keyless remote control, I will appreciate very much your help.

2005 Buick... | Answered on Mar 28, 2019


Start simple. Investigate your fuses, since it is unlikely, but not unheard of, for both low beams to fail simultaneously.

Do you know where your fuses are?

2005 Buick... | Answered on Feb 06, 2019


Most wiper motor replacements are very similar, the difference may be in the components that you need to remove to access the motor.

Here is a video which may help you by providing you an idea of what is required. Hope this helps and good luck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BTQdl_YeGE

2005 Buick... | Answered on Dec 27, 2018


I found the fix with help from dealer with no charge I forget what the part is called but follow air intake line to top of engine disconnect it- their is a butter fly here that sticks when dirty all you have to do is is get some cleaner from parts store and clean build up out mine runs great now

2005 Buick... | Answered on Dec 08, 2018


If you have separate heat/cool selections for the driver and the passenger, you have two blend door actuators, otherwise just one. You also have a mode door actuator, a recirculating door actuator, and possibly a defrost door actuator.

2005 Buick... | Answered on Oct 15, 2018


instrument panel fuse box - RDO/AMP fuse 25 amp .

Fuse Block - I/P
Right side of the I/P, behind the access panel

Open the passenger door , at the end of the instrument panel .

2005 Buick... | Answered on Aug 28, 2018


check if getting spark and gas that should get you going in correct direction

2005 Buick... | Answered on Aug 26, 2018


3.6L V6 Buick Lacrosse (Allure) CXS, 2006: The usual place for the power steering pressure hose to leak copious amounts of fluid is at the pump-end fitting. Don't bother trying to replace the teflon seal on the outside of it in an attempt to stop the leak. This fitting has a hidden internal seal that is designed to allow the metal part of the hose to float in the fitting even after the fitting is properly tightened. The only lasting repair is to replace the hose. On the 3.6 engine, this job is more difficult than average because the hose is a long multi-segment affair that wraps all around the subframe. Some pro shops are even hesitant to take it on, possibly because of poor GM instructions. It takes about 3 hours of labor, unless you have done it before. GM's removal and installation instructions are misleading and confusing; some might say just plain erroneous. They presume a GM hose is being installed, which apparently is not like the original hose, and that requires additional parts and effort. The solution is to install an aftermarket hose such as Edelmann PN 92226; the brand you choose really does not matter, they are all the same. The GM procedure also calls for removing motor mount bolts and lifting the engine. I found that to be unnecessary.

Remove the right side wheel and splash shield, which is held on by three plastic push pins. Undo the two steering rack heat shield snaps, using needle nose pliers to reach into the small space, and remove the shield . Take lots of pictures to remind yourself how the hose is routed around the subframe. You may ask yourself how it can possibly be removed; I know I did. Disconnect both ends of the hose. The pump end is best reached with a stubby length 18mm wrench. Despite appearing to be tight in there, the rack end is easy to loosen with a regular 18 mm open end wrench. The 18mm fitting you want to loosen is the one closest to the firewall. Very important: unhook and remove all of the plastic clips than hold the hose assembly in place, unhook the clips that retain a wire bundle to the assembly, and slide off all of the protective sheathings and cushion rings. From underneath, pull the pump end of the hose down under the subframe, and let it hang there. This will allow the metal sections of the hose to start to come away from the subframe rails. Begin to work the rack end of the hose outward toward the wheel well; it is tight in there, the end of the hose has a convoluted metal section, and and at first it may seem impossible to get that past the exhaust down pipe and out using the small space between the rack and the engine block, with the metal section of the return hose also getting in your way. Don't give up; it just takes patience. As the hose assembly comes out into the wheel well, you will be able to gradually turn the metal mid-section of the hose and feed it under the A/C compressor. You are basically turning the whole hose assembly counterclockwise (as viewed from above) in a series of steps until it is out. Eventually, with careful twisting and turning, it will come out. The key is to use the clear space under the A/C compressor and forward to the radiator to maneuver it. With the old hose on the floor under the car, study how it is laid out, and what sections lay along what parts of the subframe. Put the new hose on the floor, and orient it exactly the same. Follow the instructions that came with the new hose to install the included o-ring on the flare fitting at the rack end. I like to shrink a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto the metal flare to protect the o-ring from cuts as it's stretch over it. Once the o-ring is in place, pull the heat-shrink off and discard it. Protect the hose fittings with caps or tape to keep them clean while feeding the hose into position. Starting at the rack end fitting, begin feeding the hose: From under the car, find the gap that's underneath the A/C compressor, between the front of the engine block and the front aluminum subframe cross rail. Feed the hose out toward the wheel well through that gap. Once you get the convoluted metal end piece through there, you can start to turn and maneuver the hose assembly clockwise. Going a little at the time, it can be worked into place, basically following the reverse of the removal. Maybe it's learning curve, but for me the new one went in better than the old once came out. Verify the the o-ring is still on the rack-end fitting, lube it with ATF, and hand start the threads into the rack until you are sure it is threading in properly, and it is not cross-threaded. Tighten it to no more that 20 lb-ft. The pump end fitting already has a white teflon seal on the outside, so all you need to do is lube it, start the threads by hand, and tighten it securely. . I hope this is write-up is helpful. Good luck with the repair!

2005 Buick... | Answered on Jul 08, 2018


There is nothing unusual about this radiator, but replacing it can be messy. You need to drain the radiator using the valve at the bottom (may be hidden by an air deflector panel at the bottom front of the car), remove the cowling above the radiator, disconnect and remove the cooling fan(s), disconnect all hoses (and pipes if connected), then remove the retaining bolts in the bracket above the radiator. You can then pull the radiator up and out.
If this is a radiator that includes an integrated engine and/or transmission oil cooler, you need to be aware that fluid will leak fluid from the disconnected pipes. Although the amount is usually small, you will need to check these fluid levels when you are done and top up if needed.
Reverse this procedure with the new radiator and be very careful not to damage it. Be sure to use an "all types" antifreeze to avoid corrosion in future.

2005 Buick... | Answered on Mar 30, 2018


It's called a ambient light sensor . The ambient light sensor is a light-sensitive transistor that varies its voltage signal to the body control module (BCM) in response to changes in the outside (ambient) light level
If the technician didn't know if it would fix it or not , should have found a more knowledgeable tech. Hooking up a factor scan tool would have found a DTC - diagnostic trouble code in the BCM - body control module .
DTC B2645 Ambient Light Circuit

2005 Buick... | Answered on Jan 31, 2018


I would have the engine checked for a coolant leak that may have allowed the introduction of air into a closed system. how's the antifreeze level?

2005 Buick... | Answered on Jan 15, 2018


Have you taken the vehicle any where an had diagnostic's run ? Given all the electronic's on your vehicle your problems could be caused by any number of thing's ! An guessing could cause you to just replace parts , an that's not the way to diagnose this . Hooking up a factory or professional scanner an test driving the vehicle while a qualified tech veiw's sensor data to see what is droping out would be the way to diagnose,could have a sensor shorted out internally ,but which one ? This would bring down the five volt ref. circuit in the PCM. Plus the starting system on your vehicle is computer controlled . The ignition switch is an input to the BCM -body control module , the BCM sends a crank message to the PCM - engine computer ,the PCM energizes the crank relay which sends B+ voltage to the S terminal on the starter solenoid . Your best bet , have a qualified repair shop check it out . You have no idea of the complexity of the electronic's on your vehicle. The starter staying engaged could be as simple as relay contacts sticking or as complicated as a BCM or ignition switch problem I know GM had their share of problems with both .
This is out of GM service repair manual .
Circuit Description (Key Start)
When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position a discrete 12 volts signal is supplied to the body control module (BCM) notifying it that the ignition is in the Start position. The BCM then supplies a class 2 message to the engine control module (ECM) / powertrain control module (PCM) notifying it that CRANK has been requested. At the same time the BCM is supplying 12 volts for the IGN 1 Relay closing it and supplying battery positive voltage for the crank relay coil. The ECM/PCM verifies that the transmission is in Park or Neutral. If it is, the ECM/PCM grounds the control circuit of the CRANK Relay. When this occurs battery positive voltage is supplied through the switch side of the crank relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid.

2005 Buick... | Answered on Dec 25, 2017


shut off the caplock please. it sounds like you have a short in the wiring someplace.

2005 Buick... | Answered on Oct 15, 2017

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