20 Most Recent 1997 Mazda Protege Questions & Answers

If the transmission fluid level is ok then its time for a overhaul.

1997 Mazda... | Answered on Sep 17, 2018

The valve cover gasket may be leaking. Ensure the bolts that secure in place are tightened properly. (Do not over-tighten!)

1997 Mazda... | Answered on Dec 11, 2017

No, the fans have separate relays. You have to use the wiring diagram to sort it out. The pcm turns on the cooling fan relay with a ground signal on a purple/black wire when the temp sensor signal rises too high.



1997 Mazda... | Answered on Oct 31, 2017

sooty plugs and misfiring indicates problem injectors
run a couple of quality injector cleaner through the tank and see if that improves the running

1997 Mazda... | Answered on Sep 10, 2017

You've pretty much answered your own question, although I doubt it's demons...LOL. Ign switch, nuetral safety or park switch, shorted starter, could be chaffed wiring. If your in the ON position and the starter engages, I'd be looking at the ign wire from the switch to the starter solenoid and or relay. Your car is 20 years old so anything is possible at this point. Your best bet is to go to ALLDATA>COM and buy the wiring schematics for your car grab a DVM and start checking your circuits.

1997 Mazda... | Answered on Jun 09, 2017

if you can see the cam shaft turning then the timing belt is ok
run the fault codes and check for crank position or cam shaft position sensor failures
one or the other or both are candidates for your problem

1997 Mazda... | Answered on May 18, 2017

It indicates a loose battery terminals.

1997 Mazda... | Answered on May 02, 2017

I would try a flush. If its set up like my 96, and it likely is, changing the trasmission gasket and filter will be difficult. Mine has a medal plug on the bottom and takes an allen wrench, and possibly a breaker bar. If you take out this plug, drain, flush then refill via the dipstick tube and a funnel, it may help. You may need to do this a couple of times due to fluid still in the torque converter, pan, etc.
Lucas is good stuff, I would add it again when I was done. The tranny fluid should be pink, mine looked like used oil black before I flushed it.
Also, when adding the new fluid, shift slowly up and down through all of the gears to lube well and check your fluid levels after 100 miles or so, as sometimes a bubble will form and make it look full....then not after it pops.

1997 Mazda... | Answered on Apr 03, 2017

hard starting when cold indicates that the ambient temp sensor , baro sensor,MAP sensor individually or separately are part of the problem
when a code is reported there can be up to 7 causes for that code and not just the one
if you can find what the code reported was maybe some one can expand and get you more pointers
it is doubtful if you have a problem pcm or ECM or any other operating control unit because it starts eventually and runs so that indicates a problem sensor

1997 Mazda... | Answered on Mar 13, 2017

I had this same problem with my 97 protege. If the compression is low the shims for the valves can be changed without doing a complete valve job. If the compression is OK you might need to replace the distributor. Sometimes the seal behind it leaks and can cause the same problem

1997 Mazda... | Answered on Oct 26, 2016

If you cannot find the freeze plug, it is probably because you have no idea what you are looking for. First off, there isn't just "A" freeze plug on an engine, there are numerous ones located all around the block and sometimes on the cylinder heads as well. Some are concealed between the engine rear and firewall, some may be concealed behind accessories such as the power steering pump, water pump, or alternator, and yet others may be hidden between the engine and transmission. A freeze plug is a recessed metal disc that is pressed into the casting to allow expansion of freezing water to pop it out, preventing the casting from cracking in the event of a freeze-up in extremely cold conditions. Unfortunately, these plugs corrode over time and may leak, requiring replacement. The rule of thumb is that if the offending plug is accessible, replace the bad one and move on. If it is not accessible and you need to remove the engine to provide service, then you are best suited to replace ALL freeze plugs since you already have access to them and if one has gone bad, the others may well soon follow. You wouldn't want to go to the expense of pulling the engine to replace a rear freeze plug, only to have to it again in the short-term future. Here is a shot of some freeze plug openings....one with a plug in it and two that are open. Additionally, removal of the freeze plugs also allow for more thorough cleaning of the engine block in the chemical tank during engine overhaul and rebuilding processes.


1997 Mazda... | Answered on Oct 17, 2016

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