I'd definitely check battery and battery cables. In the past, I had a vehicle where the lights at night would brighten and dim a little on their own, drove me crazy, at the moment, I can't remember if battery or battery cables, one or the other. Just my opinion.
Do you know what a wiring diagram is for ? How to use a DVOM - digital volt ohmeter to test electrical circuit's ? None of the headlamps work ? hi or lo beams ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on lighting , then under subsystem click on headlamps . Click the search button then the blue link . Looking at the diagram i see fuse's light switch , multifuction switch , relay's - hi & lo an the headlamp assembly's .
Now watch this video Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia
hi there sharondav are u able to remove unit & look for serial no. on side unit serial no. starts with m & is six figure no.u need radio pins to take unit out which u can purchase at local car accessories or if you ask nicely u can ask u r local ford garage to take unit out it you can i will be able to get radio code for u.
I just removed my front grill yep had to break it off, but easyly and neatly and use black tie wraps from b & q to put it back its just a cover nothing more folks use double tie put together to lenghen to your needs, on your bumpers at the either side near head lights there are plastic clips thread them through there and then place grill back through, a bit fiddly but it can be done, use pin nose pliers or tweezers to pull tie wraps back through and tie off.
Now the lock, mine was a swine, i gave it thought and thought and after really cutting me knuckles. found that where the housing is around the lock, the housing at the sides going to the back are plastic u just drilled these away to hole big enough to allow me to get a 10 ring spanner in and enough room ie cut more away if needed to undo the 2 bolts holding the lock in place, this way is easier and quicker by miles. i did the same on the other side i checked before doing any of this, and it does not matter as there is a black plastic cover over the latch you will this once open, that covers it all up. and you can,t see anyting once you put the grill back, try it i have some pics i will put on here so check mmm out, i tried for ages and i did it this way, you don,t have to its just a way to do it, it worked for me and i did my mates as well, and you can,t even tell.
Probably sorted by now but in case anyone gets the same problem. Check all the red fuses in the main fuse box, not just the one the handbook says it should be. The main fuse box is behind the glove box...push in the sides and the gb will drop down....the fuse box is facing you.
often times the owners manual will tell you fuse box locations and give you a diagram to which fuse controls what, and what amprage fuse youll need to replace it with. if the manual doesnt tell you which fuse controls what, then the fuse box should have a diagram somewhere close by like on a cover to the actual box. if all else fails, google "fuse box location 2001 focus" and see where it is
The good news is that you are going to most likely be able to fix this program with your 2001 Ford Focus Key Fob. Follow the steps below and you should be able to get it working again:
1) Change the battery
Batteries don't last forever, you'll be surprised how often it's just a dead battery! Click here for a video on how to open a GM key fob, or search our YouTube channel on how to change a battery for your specific year, make, and model!
2) Wipe the board
The board inside your remote can get a lot more filthy than you think! When the board is dirty it can prohibit the contact to the circuit board when you push down on the button. Simply wiping the circuit board off can make your key fob like new again!
3) The old car battery reset trick
I know this sounds absurd, but it works sometimes and is worth trying. If you exhausted all of the options above, disconnect bot terminals on your car battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect them and try your key fob. This has worked for many people and I have no idea why. If you do, please comment below to explain.
4) Get it checked
Go to your local hardware store like AutoZone or Oreilly's. They usually have a RF frequency tester. This little gadget will let you know if your key fob is sending a signal. If it is, you may need to reprogram your key fob to your vehicle
*** THERE ARE 2 POSSIBLE PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES. ***Procedure #1Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.
Note: Do not depress the brake pedal during procedure.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Within 20 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 4.
Within 20 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 3. For all other remotes.
Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.
Procedure #2Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.1Fasten seat belts and close all doors.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 6 seconds, with the 4th time ending in RUN. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Turn ignition to OFF. Acoustic signal will sound and system warning lamp will illuminate to confirm programming mode.
Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on the first keyless remote. Wait for acoustic sound and warning lamp to flash (confirming programming) then release button on remote. Wait 2 seconds but within 10 seconds repeat step 4. For all other remotes. If you only have one remote then continue to step 5.
Turn ignition to Crank or wait 10 seconds to end programming mode.
Sometimes not getting power to start can be the simplest thing. Make sure your battery is getting good connection, take the battery cable off the battery post and clean any corrosion off between them with wire brush, pocker knife or battery post cleaning tool. When finished apply a thin layer on the post inside of battery cable, of petroleum jelly or grease (this will slow any return of corrosion). Reapply battery cables to battery post, do not over tighten. If the battery is over four years old, there’s a good chance it needs to be replaced. Do a load test at your local automotive parts store. It could be the solenoid on the starter, the part store can test that too but you’ll have to take it off most likely. If it’s none of these a automotive store can help you determine what the cause might be, I find they are generally helpful in determining the problem. Most you can borrow the tools to fix it from them, or if you don’t feel up to doing it yourself, they can recommend a local garage or dealership to fix the problem.