You can get guide from many sites.. i know few
error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing i s covered
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View wiring diagrams an test the starter electrical circuits . Do you own a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Do you know what a wiring diagram is an how to read one ? Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on engine then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link.
is it the 4 cylinder motor are you sure its not the waterpump leaking out weap hole ? .It might be one of those sizes that they make the rubber expansion screw tight freeze plugs for if so you knock the old freeze plug out with a hammer and 3/8" extension bar try to flip one side in carefully that causes the other side of the freeze plug to swing out where you can get hold of it with something to yank it out . If its winter and looks like it is going to take hours leave freeze plug IN and you can see of feel the freeze plug " you may be able to drain the radiator first then sandpaper the hole in the freeze plug (where it leaks at) okay go to auto zoan buy a pack of J&B weld (12 hour epoxy) after cleaning the sanded area dry it with lacquer thinner or acetone (nail polish remover) to dry the antifreeze from surface dry mix the J&B weld in two halves (about 2 tablespoons ) on a plastic mix it good ! if its rel cold freezing or below heat it just before smearing it onto the hole (leak ) you may cut a small disc(cardboard) the size of the inside of freeze plug put the mixed J&B onto the disc and smash it down onto the hole area " if you do this right it should be 1/8" or more 3/16" at the hole spot (you sanded) wait for it to dry (harden)all night or a day after words you can refill the radiator with coolant and get it full then you should be good for anywhere from 3 months to 3 years depending on how well you applied the method and other factors (not mentioned ) hope this helps someone of course if you can uses a hammer and socket to drive the original type plug in then do that put some sealer on the hole as you pound it in there you have 3 choices
indicates a head gasket problem
at idle the gasket is sealing but under load is allowing compression into water jacket
do a compression test
check cat converter for failure blocking exhaust
run fault codes to check for mixture control problems
Hola, primero hay que arreglar lo mas urgente que es la temperatura, para esto lo primero basico es cambiar el termostato de temp del agua. Y sabremos si se apaga por lo caliente o porque.
Lo de los cambios tardios no deber de afectar el cambio de aceite asegura se la haya echado aceite de transmission adecuado hay un tipo para cada marca GM (dexron) y Ford TipoF (el Pontiac es GM) y revisa el nivel adecuado encendido el vehiculo y neutral
Sounds like a ground problem . Do you know anything about automotive electrical circuit's ? Do you know what a wiring diagram is ,how to read one , use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Reading factory service repair info. on how these systems work would be a good idea also . But the main thing would be to look at wiring diagrams to see if these thing's share a power or ground supply . You look at wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter the vehicle info year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on instrumentation . Click the search button then the blue link.Scroll down through the diagrams an note all grounds , wright them down . Find the diagrams for all the affected systems an wright down ground #'s . Watch these video's on electrical testing . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
With the Key in the RUN position, check for battery voltage on the brown wire in connector 2 terminal H at the DRL module. Also check for battery voltage on the pink wire terminal C of the same connector. if you see battery voltage, then the IGN switch and the two fuses supplying power to the DRL are working fine.
Next, check the brown wire in connector 1 terminal H at the DRL module for battery voltage
Testing fuel pump pressure an doing fuel pump electrical circuit testing should be done rather then guessing . Could have electrical problem that mite make one think it was a bad fuel pump . A couple simple test's to confirm , before replacing an finding out it didn't fix the problem .
first is up you octane with an adative or tank of has. the next would be to inspect your rotor cap for crac ks/ scale build up. if showing a lot of build up on the contacts replace cap and rotor button. Those ate the easiest and cheapest improvements. the octane boost reduces the misfire due to detonation
As far as I can tell, the only part that comes down is the little door in the middle of the backseat. Your key goes in there and unlocks it and you can put it up or down depending if you are hauling anything. it is available when you pull down the strap that gives you the cup holders and center console in the backseat.
It is possible the engine cradle bushings are shot and the cradle is moving laterally or twisting during turns causing something like a wheel to contact the body. An alignment shop can check that for you.