20 Most Recent 2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac - Page 6 Questions & Answers


The gap for a stock OEM plug is .054 in a 4.0 liter engine.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Feb 13, 2012


Those boots are leaking pretty badly. If you don't need replacement axles already, you will soon.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 14, 2012


you need to check the wiring harness at the rear of the vechicle

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 03, 2012


You can call the ford dealer and give them your VIN and they can give you the code.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Dec 16, 2011


blend door motor behind glove box is very weak. drop glove box door down. on top of fan box is a 3x3 cover over the blend motor, 3 screws hold it down. replace it,about 70 bucks or i just turn on heat and tap on the cover with a pocket knife to start it moving. it gos to heat,leave it alone.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Nov 27, 2011


The one definite thing you need to do is to run the engine 'till it begins to leak, turn it off and carefully examine everything and find the source. Obviously, I can't see it but the start of any repair involves identifying what needs to be replaced by looking. Antifreeze will run down to where it can drip off the car onto the ground. Make sure you find the actual source which most often is much higher up on the engine than the point where you actually see the drip. When hot, the coolant is under pressure so before attempting the actual repair wait for it to cool down or you can get burned.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Oct 17, 2011


If you want an ower's manual with the fuse diagrams in it, feel free to email me at csautomotivecars@att.net with your make, model and year and I will be happy to email you a copy.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Aug 22, 2011


Hello, Your problem is probably the switch at the top of the Brake pedal lever. This switch is the one that you use when you put your foot on the Brake pedal, so you can shift it into gear.

This is a frequent problem as your foot can hit this switch when you enter or exit the vehicle. Just look up under the dash at the upper portion of the Brake pedal lever and you will probably see a broken plastic switch. Since this switch is shorting out, it blows the fuse.

You can probably replace this switch yourself. Just disconnect the Batterys' NEG cable and then go under the dash. The nickname for this switch is the BOO switch. Once you replace this switch it may need to be adjusted in the holder. You will be able to see the Brake lights work when you press the Brakes when the alignment is correct. Remember to reonnect the NEG battery cable.

Your vehicle should shift without a problem. If you blow yet another fuse after replacing this part, it would mean a wire is probably burned and grounding. This would require tracing the wires from the switch you replaced and doing it with the Battery disconnected again. You would use an Ohmmeter to check each wire for grounding. One lead from the Ohmmeter would be connected to the vehicle body and the other would be connected to the wires leading from the Boo switch.

You probably do not have to go any farther than to replace the Boo switch and the fuse, but I give the additional info just in case you need to know it.

I hope my solution is very helpful to you.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jul 31, 2011


Clogged catalitic converters can cause this. The engine will start and run for a bit, but as the engine tries to exhaust the gases they have no where to go. And this will shut th engine down. To check remove one of the 02 sensors in front of the converter. If it runs fine theres your problem. If the converters are clogged badly, your engine will run better, but maybe not as well as it should. the reason being is that the hole for the 02 sensor is not big enough to vent all the exhaust.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jul 13, 2011


You can download the manual from the manufacturer's web site at
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/UserFiles/File/Global/Consumer/Manuals/KDCX889.pdf

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jun 17, 2011


  1. Put some safety glasses on.
  2. Remove the gas cap.
  3. Remove the bracket holding the fuel lines by the fuel filter to give you a little working space.
  4. take the gas tool and put it around the line and press towards the fuel filter. You may have to wiggle it a bit and work with it but eventually it will pop a little loose and the you pull that line out of the fuel filter.
  5. Do the same with the other line.
  6. Now the fuel filter should be out. Note the arrows on the new filter and the arrows on it. The arrows must point forward or the fuel filter will not function properly.
  7. The fuel lines just push firm right into the new filter.
  8. Now reverse the previous steps to finish the job.
  9. Don't forget to click that fuel cap a few times to make sure it is on real good.

Regards, Tony

2005 Ford... | Answered on May 22, 2011

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