Top 10 1998 Ford Windstar Questions & Answers

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1998 Ford Windstar Fuse Box Diagram

1998 Ford Windstar Fuse Box Diagram

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fusebox diagram for 2002 ford

fusebox diagram for 2002 ford windstar van

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Go to www.flmowner.com ,type in the year, make and model of your vehicle. Select "find my vehicle". Select "owner guide 1st edition". You will find the fusebox diagrams for your windstar starting on page 205. I hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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fuel pump fuse blown, what causes the fuse to

fuel pump fuse blown, what causes the fuse to burn?

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Fuse's burn if a component in a system has an electrical failure wether it be permanent or intermittent or sometime electrical circuits have an electrical surge which can be caused by numerous things and the fuse will burn to protect the circuit. If your fuse is coninuously burning out then you need to do some investigative work. First I would locate the fuel pump relay and remove that then replace the fuse and see if it burns out, second if you can access it try to unplug the wiring to the pump and replace the fuse, third you should check the wiring going to the pump to see if there is damaged wiring. The last thing that may (but unlikely) be the problem would be the ECM that controls the system. If the first three fail you should try and have it properly diagnosed by good shop.

Posted on Dec 08, 2009

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VEHICLE WONT START

EXACT LOCATION AND DESCRIPTION OF THE ANTI THEFT MODULE ON A 1998/1999 FORD WINDSTAR

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Section 13-11: Anti-Theft System, Active 1998 Windstar Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Anti-Theft Alarm System NOTE: The system immediately monitors the ignition key lock cylinder upon removal of the key from the ignition. It is not necessary to arm the system for ignition key lock monitoring.

The anti-theft alarm system:

  • protects the vehicle from unauthorized entry into the passenger compartment, engine compartment and cargo area.
  • monitors the status of the ignition key lock cylinder.
  • is controlled by a remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module. The remote anti-theft personality module also controls the electronic door lock functions. Refer to Section 01-14B for more details.
  • when armed, detects unauthorized entry into the passenger compartment by using an input from the GEM module regarding the state of the door or liftgate (open or closed).
  • protects the engine compartment with a hood switch which is located on the LH cowl vent panel and is part of windshield wiper motor wiring (17A477) .
  • triggers an alarm if the ignition lock cylinder is forcibly removed from the steering column.
Once triggered, the system responds by:
  • flashing the low beam headlamps, the parklamps, rear lamps and the alarm indicator warning light emitting diode (LED).
  • sounding the horn (13832).
  • disabling the starter circuit until the system is disarmed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remote Anti-Theft Personality Module
  • The remote anti-theft personality module is located behind the instrument panel (04320).
  • It contains a radio receiver that receives the RF signal from the keyless entry remote transmitter (15K601) through the alarm and lock system antenna (15603) and sends the appropriate command to the power door locks, the horn relay, or the generic electronic module.
  • The remote anti-theft personality module is equipped with an internal backup power supply which holds the programmed code in memory in the event the vehicle battery is disconnected.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remote Anti-Theft Personality Module Removal
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 .
  1. Remove radio. Refer to Section 15-01 .
  1. Remove lower instrument panel center finish panel. Refer to Section 01-12 .
  1. Lower glove box.
  1. Remove two remote anti-theft personality module bracket retaining screws.
  1. Disconnect electrical connectors and alarm and lock system antenna (15603).
  1. Remove remote anti-theft personality module and bracket.
  1. Remove remote anti-theft personality module from mounting bracket.
Installation
  1. To install, follow removal procedure in reverse order.
  1. Tighten remote anti-theft personality module bracket retaining screws to 6-8 Nm (54-70 lb-in).

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Components The system is composed of the following components:
  • remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module with integral antenna
  • alarm indicator LED
  • door lock cylinder switch RH, door lock cylinder switch LH
  • liftgate door lock cylinder switch (220A40)
  • hood switch (part of windshield wiper motor wiring (17A477))
  • ignition lock anti-theft switch (19A438)
The following vehicle components are also used by the anti-theft alarm system:
  • generic electronic module
  • power door lock switch (14028)
  • door open warning lamp switch (14018)
  • autolamp relay (14N089)
  • horn relay and bracket (13853) and horn (13832)
  • low beam headlamps
  • rear lamps (13404) and parking lamps (13200)
  • starter relay
  • door lock relays
  • keyless entry remote transmitter (15K601)
--------------------------------
Disarming an Untriggered System NOTE: A perimeter alarm will "shut off" after 165 seconds, but the system is still triggered and is not disarmed.

An armed but untriggered perimeter anti-theft system can be disarmed by one of the following four events:
  1. Unlock the doors by pressing the keyless entry remote transmitter (15K601) UNLOCK button once.
  2. Unlock any door with a key.
  3. Turn ignition switch to RUN or ACC.
  4. The remote entry PANIC button will disarm the anti-theft system only when the perimeter alarm is triggered and sounding.
------------------------------------------------
System Triggering NOTE: Although the remote entry PANIC alarm is not associated with the monitoring of the vehicle, the user will frequently say that the theft system was triggered when actually the keyless entry remote transmitter PANIC button was inadvertently pressed. A panic alarm will not flash the THEFT indicator.

The alarm can be triggered by the following events if the system has been armed and has not been disarmed first:
  • Open any door or liftgate.
  • Open the hood (16612) (if the hood was open when the system was armed, it must be closed before it can trigger the alarm).
  • Dislodge the ignition key lock cylinder.
  • The anti-theft system may be triggered inadvertently when the module is disconnected and then reconnected. To avoid inadvertent alarm triggering, disconnect the smaller 22-way connector first.
When the system is triggered the perimeter alarm will operate as follows: The remote anti-theft personality module will pulse the following outputs at approximately 1.3 Hz, 50 percent duty cycle for two minutes 45 seconds for North America. NOTE: Other perimeter alarms can be programmed for the system.

  • low beam headlamps
  • parking lamps
  • horn
  • THEFT indicator
The perimeter alarm can be retriggered, after a perimeter alarm has sounded for 165 seconds. After a perimeter alarm has timed out, if any trigger input is first seen as normal and is then seen in its trigger state, the perimeter alarm will be retriggered. The perimeter alarm can be triggered a total of three times between an arming sequence and a disarm event. An active panic alarm will be deactivated when a perimeter alarm is triggered (a perimeter alarm overrides a panic alarm).

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

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1998 ford windstar 3.8 with code p1538. Is this a

1998 ford windstar 3.8 with code p1538. Intake manifold runner control stuck open, bank # 2. Is this a major engine ploblem or is this an intake manifold issue that can be easily fixed. The cruise control works only when it wants to so is there connection between the engine problem and the cruise control? It runs a little better when I use high test as well as gumout fuel additive. I am noticing a drop in fuel milage and it does not run as smooth as I know it should. In the past, it would stall when stopped at a stop sign or traffic light. Intake manifold runner control stuck open, bank #2.

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LOOKING IN CODE BOOK.POSSIBLE CAUSE TO YOUR PROBLEM THE IMRC COULD BE STUCK OPEN.OR THE IMRC ACTUATOR IS DAMAGED OR HAS FAILED.ALSO THE IMRC MONITOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT COULD BE SHORTED TO POWER GROUND OR SHORTED TO SIGNAL GROUND RETURN.

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

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change tag light bulb

change tag light bulb

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  1. Remove two screws retaining the lamp to the rear license plate lamp shield.
  1. Rotate socket one quarter turn from backside of lamp and remove the miniature bulb (13466) .

  1. Install new miniature bulb into socket.
  1. Install socket in lamp .
  1. Secure lamp to rear license plate lamp shield with two screws and tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).


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    Item Part Number Description 1 13508 Rear License Plate Lamp Shield 2 14A583 Lamp Lead Wire 3 383356-S Nut (4 Req'd) 4 56000-S Screw (4 Req'd) 5 13550 Lamp (2 Req'd) 6 13466 Miniature Bulb (2 Req'd) A — Tighten to 2 Nm (18 Lb-In)

Posted on Feb 27, 2010

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Noisy power steering pump

Noisy power steering pump

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hi friend,
Power steering noise When the fluid is low and you add some ... it still needs more after you run it for awhile. The reason for that is that the pump pumps the fluid through the lines and gets out the air in them. Keep filling and checking after you start the car and turn the wheel from side to side all the way.

  • The bigger question is why do you need to add fluid? After you locate and fix that leak, you can address the whine. If it is a Ford, it may be somewhat normal. Like Drazi said, "It may be air trapped in the line." Or the pump may be damaged from running it dry, or there is blge in the line, starving the pump. Let's assume you have kept up on the maintenance and have flushed the fluid when it was dirty. Let's also assume that the pump is not damaged and you have found and fixed any leaks. Try this: pull the fluid out of the reservior and add one bottle of Lucas brand power steering additive, and top with power steering fluid. I have found this stuff pretty good at resolving many power steering problems. I'm not a big supporter of "Snake Oil", but have had good luck with it.
  • well" if it's a ford it's because they use plastic parts in there casing's. most other car company's do the same. if that's not the case, then your pump is reciving too much stress from turning. try lubing up the chas is and changing the fluid completely. it wouldn't hurt to check your line's ether. sometime's blockage can cause too much stress on the pump too.
  • First thing is why are you adding
fluid. If it has a leak then i would address that problem first. A pump will not bleed out if it is leaking. If every thing seems to be okay and your pump still whines. Then replace the pump. Note my advice is replace the pump with a new one from the dealer. These so called rebuilt pumps that you buy from places like auto zone o'rielys etc.. Are cheaply rebuilt. Especially if it's a ford. They don't bleed out right improper pump pressures. A good pump will bleed out almost immediately.With the turn of the wheel a few times. If it doesn't then your pump will more than likely never completely bleed out. Buy a pump from the dealer it cost more but if your like me and don't like the noise then it's worth it.
  • You probably have air trapped in the system. Bleed the air out by revving the engine to about 1500-2000 rp-ms and turning the steering wheel almost all the way from one side to the other a few times. This should bleed out the air and take care of your problem.
  • If the noise is similar to that of a dry bearing, then the problem probably revolves around the power-steering pump itself. If the noise you hear has a "click, click, click" to it when making turns in your vehicle, then the problem is more-than-likely your CV joints. If the noise is screeching, check your belt for wear-and-tear and proper tension (see owner's manual).
I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power-steering system: 1. Know what type of power-steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power-steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power-steering fluid for each car i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand power-steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided. 2. Before attaching the power-steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid, (see owner's manual) and turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power-steering fluid is needed fill accordingly. 3. Attach the power-steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual). 4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering-wheel all-the-way right and left 3-4 times. 5. Turn the vehicle off and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly. 6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!

Another possibility How long has the pump run without fluid for? There could be damage inside to the cam an rotor (assuming it's is a vane type pump), to the plates or it could be cavitation due to the ingress of air - possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.

www.powerbrakeandsteering.co.za

I too experienced very loud whining noise from my 93 Ranger 3.0's power steering pump at idle, and even louder when turning the steering wheel even a little bit in either direction. I changed the fluid but there was no change in noise. I read in a Ranger forum that if you add some STP oil treatment (yes, STP OIL TREATMENT) not the whole can, it would help. I decided to give it a try and sure enough it has reduced the noise greatly. It didn't completely eliminate it but people no longer stare at my vehicle at red lights because of the noisy pump. That was embarrassing! Ford's pump must be partly to blame since the problem is so rampant among all their various models.

By the way, Mercury is supposed to begin being phased out (discontinued) beginning in 2010 and completely gone by 2012. Only Ford and Lincoln will remain. Just thought ya'll might want to know that since your Mercury's value will likely plummet as that kill-off nears. However, those of you who have a stiff for Mercs may get a good deal on one before they are gone. I personally don't think they are "all that". Fords in general are pretty low market in build and longevity. I used to favor GM but switched to Honda products in the 90s, they are very long-lived. My latest is a Jaguar and I'm quite happy with it. Yes I know they were owned by Ford and now by Tata Motors but the design is all Jag.

hope this helps u
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regards
sivaranjini

Posted on Nov 25, 2009

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how to change power steering pump on98 windstar

how to change power steering pump on98 windstar with 3.8 engine

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3.8L Engine
POWER STEERING PUMP Removal

  1. Remove the battery ground cable.
  1. sww~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT NECESSARY FOR SYSTEM DEPLOYMENT IS POWERED DIRECTLY FROM THE BATTERY . TO AVOID ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY, THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED PRIOR TO SERVICING OR REPLACING ANY SYSTEM COMPONENTS.
    Disconnect the positive battery cable and wait one minute for backup power supply energy to be depleted.
  1. Remove the drive belt. Remove the generator. Remove the power steering pump pulley as described.
  1. Position the drain pan. Remove the power steering pressure hose and the power steering return hose from the power steering pump .
  1. Remove the idler pulley.
  1. On vehicles equipped with A/C, remove the A/C compressor brace.
  1. Remove three bolts and the power steering pump and bracket assembly.
  1. Remove the retaining bolts and power steering pump from the power steering pump support .
Installation
  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
    1. Tighten the power steering pump bolts to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
    1. Tighten the power steering bracket bolts to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
    1. Tighten the A/C compressor brace nut to 20-25 Nm (15-18 lb-ft).
    1. Tighten the idler pulley bolt to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).

Posted on Mar 11, 2010

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Code Number P1450 came on my Check engine light

Code Number P1450 came on my Check engine light could you tell me what the problem is ?

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code P1450 - fuel tank pressure sensor.

Posted on May 12, 2009

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illustrated diagram on how to remove speed sensor for windstar 98

need an illustrated diagram on how to remove and replace the speed sensor on a ford windstar 1998 3.8 liter engine. thank you

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The Vehicle Speed Sensor is located on transaxle, at the rear of the engine. I would check the harness connector to be sure it is clean and connected tightly. Also check the wiring for cuts and chaffing. Since it is fairly inexpensive, only about $42.00 from Ford, you may want to consider replacing it, at least to eliminate it as a possibility. You may want to go to a muffler shop to have this done like speedy, I believe the flex pipe needs to be undone to get to the VVS. If there is an Auto Zone around your area, you could always ask them for the step by step instructions to replacing the VVS, and it's free of charge. Good luck and hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

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