Question about 1991 Buick Park Avenue
It just started doing it about a week ago. It just stops running. I had the fuel filter changed and its still doing the same thing. I listened to the fuel pump and it sounds like it is pumping. What else could it be? It cranks to try to start but some times it will start again and some times it wont.
Got one in my shop doing the same thing you and a couple others describe here. I first thought it was the fuel pump, but that seems to not be the case. I am taking the ignition module off today and having it tested at NAPA. THey say they can put it through a couple of drive cycles and see if it cuts off. I'll let you know. THis car I have has already had a crank sensor replaced, but still dies and won't restart. When it dies, I noticed that spark has dropped out, but fuel pressure is still good. Let you know, later, but I think this ign. module is to blame.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
Look at the ecm and if it has the number 1228253 on it replace it. These units were upgraded by gm and will give a cutting off problem, use 16198264 or newest number. Non delco or aftermarket ecms are problems and may be a rebuilt 1228253.
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
Thank you folks! I think all suggestions were good as I believe many issues can cause these similar problems. In my case I was thinking cam sensor, module, coil, temp sensor and throttle positioning sensor. In the past I have changed the computer module twice to resolve issue. And again the module seems to have resolved it. I have not yet ruled out any of the others as the car ran great on and off.
Posted on May 24, 2009
Testimonial: "Look at the ecm and if it has the number 1228253 on it replace it. These units were upgraded by gm and will give a cutting off problem, use 16198264 or newest number. Non delco or aftermarket ecms are problems and may be a rebuilt 1228253."
I was having the same problem with my 1991 buick and my mechanic friend took a look and said he replaced my mapping sensor and now it runs great. he also said they get dirty after a while so sometimes all u have to do is clean it. the sensor is right in front of u to the right of the oil dipstick.
Posted on May 24, 2009
Okay under the steering column is the ignition switch...if you look up under there...along with the signal switch wires should be a seperate red or black wire that holds the resistance wires...If those are broke anywhere in the line, but makes contact when you start the car...the vehicle will think it is being stolen and shut off...Also if the water gets too hot the coolant sensor will sometimes kill the engine....wait about five minutes and see if it starts back up again. You might also want to check the cam sensor circuit if it is a 3.8 engine. Otherwise you have ECM problems
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
I have been having the same problem. There is only one camshaft sensor, located behind the waterpump Polly. The sensor behind the harmonic balance is the crankshaft polly. On my Park Avenue both the cam and crank sensors are brand new and my car only has 108,000 miles. Everything electric under the hood is new. Cam and crank sensors usually don't malfunction from hot temperatures, it's very rare and almost never heard of. I also have a new computer (ECM) in my car. When the ECM goes out the car exhibits all kinds of radical behavior, and I have replaced the ECM twice in this vehicle.
If it were me, here's what I think.
I installed a new Ignition Module back in May, but I think it's defective, it's gone bad already. The engine suddenly stalls when it reaches operating temperature. The map sensor rarely ever cause the engine to stall, just run rough. A temperature sensor doesn't usually cause engine stalling either. Fortunately the ignition module is still under warranty, so I think I'm going to have to take it back, and put a new one in.
The electronic ignition module is a power inverter like device which takes 11 volts of DC current and upscales it to 42.000 volts of ignition, which makes the normal ignition occur in the Buick's engine. When the capacitors in the Ignition Module start to fail, the module grounds to fault when hot, causing the engine to die, and resets when cool, allowing you to start up the again after several minutes of cooling.
If you replace the ignition module, make sure all wires are connected to the new just the same way they were on the old one, in respect to your car's spark plug firing order.
Posted on May 23, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First off the fuel filter is usually located in the under body, under the rear passenger door. Best tools to use. I recommend two open end wrenches of the correct size. Always turn counterclockwise when loosening.
If the filter has been under there for a well, you might want to use some liquid wrench or WD 40. Saturate the bolts really good about 48 hours before repairs, on a 19 year old car, you'll probably be glad you did. No special procedure, it's self explanatory, installation is the reverse of removal.
For safety make sure you first relive the pressure in the fuel system before disconnecting the fuel line. Under the hood, on the fuel rail assembly, and behind the port that holds the fuel pressure regulator in place, is the metal valve stem that acts as the fuel system pressure relief valve. Take the valve cap cover off and push the pin in to relieve the fuel pressure. Maybe having a plastic bottle to catch the gas that will escape would be a good idea.
Always safety first. Hope this helps.
Posted on May 23, 2010
Check out this link. It may help you with your problem.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
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