Question about 1998 Ford Windstar

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Measuring spoon wheel adjuster

My van pulls to the right, pretty hard. and it seems to be getting worse lately. just discovered today that the cords on drivers tired (front) are popping really bad. on the outer part of the tire. my husband is a mechanic and is willing to do the work needed, just need the measurments

Posted by Anonymous on

  • David
    David Feb 15, 2018

    Been a Ford tech for over 30 years, I've never heard of a measuring spoon adjuster. With the tires wearing like that you definitely have an alignment problem. First you need to replace all front suspension and steering components that have any play in them. Replace tires. Adjust wheel bearings and then take it in for an alignment.

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Measurement of what

Posted on Feb 15, 2018

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6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Tire wear

google TSB 03-13-5 (addresses concerns over excessive inner-tire wear on wheels mounted in the rear.), then contact your dealer again.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

emissionwiz
  • 85206 Answers

SOURCE: Mechanic says the front inner tie rods need replacement

They do not wear out that fast, 80,000 miles is a typical replacement point in your Taurus., get a 2nd opinion, wobble can also be caused by bad tires, i.e. a separated tire cord inside the tire. rotated the tires and see if it helps the problem, also an alignment is a good idea.
I am a retired Ford dealer technician, 30 years in the business.

PLEASE RATE THIS INFO

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Rubbing or grinding noise coming from Driver side rear tire/wheel

I had the same problem that based on interner research is common for Fords trcuks/suvs. The common problem fro rear humming "rubbing"sound might be the rear wheel bearings/seal. These will need to be replaced as it will progressivly get worse and the noise louder and eventually the bearings can sieze. I would hesitate to take to a ford dealer if I were you as it can run $500-900. Take to mechanic that knows how to replace wheel bearings and seals. My mechanic replaced them for about $150. and the bearing and seals are around $40. A good way to test this is to raise the wheel were you can freely spin by hand...if does not spin or there is a lot of friction then it might be the wheel bearings.
Good Luck

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: Front passenger wheel thumping and shaking

You have a possibility of a couple of things going on there. If I was there, Id be able to eliminate a few rather quickly....First, check the tire for any out of round condition by jacking up that corner and turning the wheel, sighting along the edge of the tread area to a fixed point so you can see any variations. Do the same with both sidewalls. If you have a broken internal belt, it can build up heat as it shifts while driving.
Next, check the brake rotors. If the brakes are staying applied slightly while driving, the rotor will begin to turn brownish or blue. If you find that is the case, check the caliper slides to make sure that the caliper can move freely.
If that seems OK, it is possible that the rubber hose going to the caliper has internally failed which can also keep the brake applied. If after removing the hose from the caliper, you cannot retract the caliper piston easily, then the caliper likely has rust around the piston bore and needs to be replaced.
A quick check for brake binding is to jack up the wheel after driving till it gets hot. With the transmission in neutral, try to turn the wheel. If there is excessive drag there your problem is one of the items I just mentioned.
Only other thing I can think of is some strange malfunction in abs system, but generally, you would have a failure light on the dash.

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

  • 22416 Answers

SOURCE: Makes a humming noise, louder when faster and turning

check u-joints

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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1 Answer

Measuring spoon wheel adjuster


you need to have it properly aligned, the tracking is different on every vehicle there is an amount of play in the adjustments but if it will not go into the recommend rang on the alignment then there is a problem, before taking to have this done make sure the tracking nuts and bars are easily moveable, undo them and move back and forth as if they find it hard to move they charge you more, if they can undo the nuts and move the bars around easy they cannot charge you for the extra charge. also make sure you have new tyres fitted as work or uneven ware can affect the camber to the road and wear the tyres down quicker and cause other problems later on.

Jun 21, 2017 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

2 problems...01 Silverado


Sounds to me like you have a bad front hub. The good news is that the wheel speed sensors are part of the wheel hubs. The tricky part can be to figure out which side is bad. If the noise is worse when turning right, it is most likely the left side that is bad. You could try jacking up each corner and shaking the wheels to see if there is any play.

Feb 07, 2013 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Replacing rear brakes



REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the brake drum.
  3. Disconnect the parking brake rear cable and conduit.
  4. Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs and brake shoe hold-down pins.
  5. Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.
  6. Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever and adjuster screw.
  7. Remove the brake shoe retracting spring.
  8. Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate.
  9. Remove and discard the parking brake lever clip. Remove the washer.
  10. Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe.

To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean the backing plate with brake cleaning solvent and dry completely.
  2. Use silicone grease to lubricate the brake backing plate-to-brake shoe contact areas.
  3. Apply a light coating of premium grease to the threaded areas of the adjuster. Turn the adjuster in and out to spread the lubricant. Turn the adjuster all the way down on the screw and loosen one-half turn.
  4. Install the parking brake lever to the rear (secondary) brake shoe with a new clip.
  5. Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the brake shoe hold-down springs.
  6. Attach the parking brake rear cable and conduit to the parking brake lever.
  7. Attach the brake shoe retracting spring.

The socket end of the brake adjuster screw is stamped with "R" or "L" to indicate that it is to be installed either on the right (passenger's side) or left (driver's side) of the vehicle. The adjuster nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves indicate a right-hand adjuster nut and one groove indicates a left-hand adjuster nut. Another way to identify brake adjuster assemblies is to check thread pitch. The right side adjuster assembly has right-hand threads and the left side has left-hand threads. If installed correctly, the brake adjuster assembly will increase in length when the brake shoe adjusting lever is operated.
  1. Install brake adjuster screw in the slots on the brake shoes. The wider slot on the socket end must fit in the slot on the front (primary) brake shoe.
  2. Install the brake shoe adjusting lever on the lever pin.
  3. Install the brake adjusting screw in the slot on the secondary brake shoe and in the slot on the brake shoe lever. The brake shoe adjusting lever should contact the brake adjuster screw.
  4. Adjust the brake shoes.
  5. Install the drums.


ADJUSTMENTS

The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation.
Drum Installed

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
  3. Insert a Brake Adjustment Tool (D81L-1103-C) or equivalent into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
  4. Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
  5. Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
  6. Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
  7. When the brakes are adjusted, make several stops while backing the vehicle to equalize the brakes on both of the wheels.
  8. Lower the vehicle.

Drum Removed
See Figure 2


0900c152800ae432.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)

  1. Remove the brake drum.
  2. Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
  3. Using a Brake Adjustment Gauge (D81L-1103-A) or equivalent, check the inside diameter of the drum.
  4. Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
  5. Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the brake drum inner diameter.
  6. Install the drum.


INSPECTION

See Figure 3


0900c152800ae433.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).

Dec 19, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Replacement of rear control arm. The control arm looks like a bar with a tie rod end and seems to be holding the wheel assembly in place. as far as I can tell it is a control arm assembly. How difficult...


It's not difficult at all. Most auto parts stores can order them, but the cheapest way to go is to go to a salvage yard. You're right, it looks like a tie rod. Disconnect the nuts, pop the old one off and bolt the new one in place. Make sure the bushings on the new one are in good shape if you pick up a used one. Otherwise just get new bushings for it before putting it in. If you have the non-adjustable control arms, it's pretty much a no brainer to pull the old one and put the new one in. There are no length adjustments to worry about. If yours are adjustable, measure from the center of one end to the center of the other on the old one, then adjust the new/used one to that length before putting it in.

May 26, 2010 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Front end wobble


An easily overlooked problem that can have these symptoms is low tire pressure. Examine your tire for excessive wear or a flat spot. Check your tire pressures. If all this seems fine, rotate your tires to see if that helps the problem. If so, replace the suspect tire.

Sep 10, 2009 | 1987 GMC VanDura

2 Answers

Hand brake needs adjusting, no more adjustment on the cable


then the brakes are worn out or the cable is streached, check brakes and replace if ness, if brakes are ok replace the cable

Jul 23, 2009 | 2000 Mazda 626

1 Answer

How do I remove the brake drum


First, block the front wheels, loosen the rear lug nuts, then jack up the rear wheels. Use jackstands to support the car -- not the jack! Find the proper location for the jackstands and make sure they are securely supporting the car.
Next, remove any factory drum retainer clips from the lug studs. You will likely have to destroy them, but don't worry because they're unnecessary.
Next, use a block of wood with a hammer to firmly tap around the drum -- always use a block of wood unless you use a special "dead blow" hammer. This action loosens rust between the drum and the lug studs, which may allow the drum to be removed.
If the drum still will not pull off, loosen the brake shoes with a special brake tool, sometimes called a "brake spoon," which is available at your auto parts store. You may need to remove a rubber weather plug to access the brake adjuster star wheel through the backing plate. Rotate the adjuster wheel just enough to remove the drum. (You'll know pretty quickly if you are tightening or loosening it.) If the drum is worn, there may be a "lip" around the outer edge, which is an area that does not come in contact with the brake shoes.
Upon removal, take the drums (both of them) to a brake shop. The shop will determine if they can be turned and reused by measuring the inside diameter of the worn area with calipers. There should be a maximum allowable measurement stamped or embossed on the outside of the drum. Don't be surprised if you need new drums, as they don't have as much metal as they used to. If they can be turned and reused, consider yourself lucky, and be sure to replace the brake shoes.

Jul 09, 2009 | 1997 Ford Escort

1 Answer

After sitting in driveway, back wheels have completely locked up.


Chock the front tires, loosen up the lug nutes on the rear tires, jack the rear end up, uncap the adjuster dust caps on the back of the rear drums, either use a brake spoon or straight blade screwdriver and turn the star adjuster while spinning the wheel until you have no resistance. If this does not work remove the rear tires and hit the sides of the drums with a small sledge hammer or hammer to loosen & break up the rust, When you get movement on the drum, hit it betweeen the studs. Be patient, this may take some time.

Jun 20, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

The rear wheel on my 1996 plymouth voyager will not come off. The parking brakes are off. I tried pulling it off with a wheel puller. The top of the drum is releasing fine, but the bottom of the hub is...


There are cut outs on the back of the drums were you can adjust the star adjuster with a brake spoon or straight blade screwdriver. Sounds like you adjusters are out forcing the drums to get hung up.

Jun 14, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Noise in front end when steering wheel is turned


is your van 4WD, AWD, or rear wheel drive? if it is 4WD or AWD, the front axle seals might be going bad. PLEASE RATE MY ANSWER.

Feb 26, 2009 | 1997 Ford Econoline

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