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Where can I find a solar evacuation water pump?

Water forms on the flat roof about 30feet by 10 feet about 2 inches of water, the drain is close we just need the solar water pump

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Try and see if a solar driven pond (fish pond or fountain )pump will do the job.

Posted on Nov 14, 2014


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Hi there,
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Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 85178 Answers

SOURCE: Carrera roof is stuck

As is typical with all German cars this tops operation requires a scanner to analyze, off to the dealer with you.

Posted on Feb 22, 2012

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SOURCE: holden astra roof problems. what can cause the soft top to stop closing 2 inches from the end? Once I push the roof back a little manually and press the button, the roof will open and lock down.....

it could be a weak spring. or somthing in the way do you hear a clunk when you rise or lower it ?

Posted on Feb 22, 2014

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Sun roof won't close 2004 Ford Explorer

The roof opening panel is an electronically operated panel that can be opened or closed by the roof opening panel switch. Actuating the switch in either a forward or rearward motion supplies a ground to the roof opening panel motor. The vent and soft-stop functions are controlled by the roof opening panel motor. These positions are obtained when an internal motor cam opens the roof position switch, removing the ground from the switch. The roof opening panel has an express open feature activated when the switch is pressed momentarily. The roof opening panel is closed by continuous activation of the switch until the sunroof stops movement. This function is controlled by the roof opening panel motor.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Roof opening panel
  • Opening shield
  • Roof panel frame
  • Opening shield guide feet
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuses:
    • 2 (20A)
    • 29 (5A)
  • Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 1 (60A)
  • Accessory delay relay
  • Roof opening panel control switch
  • Circuitry
  • Roof opening panel motor

  • The roof opening panel does not open or close
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
    • 2 (20A).
    • 29 (5A).
  • Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 1 (60A).
  • Circuitry.
  • Roof opening panel control switch.
  • Roof opening panel motor.
  • Go To Pinpoint Test E .

Do the power windows and power locks work ?

  • Key in OFF position.
  • Disconnect: Roof Opening Panel Motor C920.
  • Key in ON position.
  • NOTE: Activate accessory delay relay for this check.
  • Measure the voltage between roof opening panel motor C920-4, circuit 400 (LB/BK), and ground; and between roof opening panel motor C920-7, circuit 1173 (BN/OG), and ground.
  • Are the voltages greater than 10 volts?
GO to E7 .

REPAIR circuit 400 (LB/BK) or circuit 1173 (BN/OG). TEST the system for normal operation. If you can't do electrical testing , there is a manual way to close it .
Roof Opening Panel Manual Operation
  1. Remove the overhead console. For additional information, refer to Overhead Console in this section.
  1. Insert a hex-head screwdriver in the center of the manual drive slot to depress the release pin. Rotate the screwdriver clockwise until the roof opening panel is closed.

Jan 13, 2017 | 2004 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

'06 Chrysler Pacifica w/sunroof: When it rains water is leaking out of the front door frame covers and sun visor screws. (Sun roof is closed.)

hi i'm not familar with your car but if you can wind the sunroof back so the sunroof is fully open look at all four corners where the sunroof sits into there should be at least 2 drain holes which can over time become clogged with debris, if you find them use some warm water and flexi pipe to clean the drain holes out. hope this helps

Oct 09, 2016 | 2006 Chrysler Pacifica

1 Answer

How to replace. A water pump. On a1996 Lincoln. 4.6

    • 1
      Raise your Town Car's hood. Loosen the connections on the battery cable ends with a 1/2-inch wrench. Lift the cables off the posts of the battery by hand.
    • 2
      Drain the antifreeze from the radiator into a drain pan by loosening the drain plug on the bottom right corner of the radiator by hand. Place the antifreeze where children and animals cannot access it.
    • 3
      Remove the fan shroud as well as the bolts that hold the fan to the water pump using a 10 mm socket on the fan shroud bolts. Remove the idler pulley bracket and the belt from the air conditioner compressor using a 9/16-inch socket and ratchet. Loosen the bolts on the power steering pump with a 5/8-inch socket, then push down on the power steering pump to loosen the belt and remove it. The air conditioner compressor and the power steering pump are both located on the right front side of the engine block.
    • 4
      Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump by loosening the clamp with a flat head screwdriver, then remove the bypass hose from the top of the water pump.
    • 5
      Remove all of the bolts that secure the water pump to the block of the engine, then remove the water pump. Use a razor blade knife to scrape the surface of the water pump jackets on the block and remove any remaining gasket material

Read more:

Aug 17, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 2001 Ford Escort ZX2 keeps getting water in it; what could be causing it?

If it has a sun roof, check it for leaks or there are drain tubes coming off of the sunroof that drain water from the roof. If the drain tubes are blocked the water could come inside. If the inside headliner has stains on it, they may be water stains which tells of a leak.

Dec 08, 2012 | 2001 Ford Escort ZX2

1 Answer

I need to know how to put up a weather head and meter box

The service utility wires coming from the utility pole, are not connected to the house (?) at present, correct?

Follow the city and county regulations stating the following,
(Should be determined from the National Electrical Code, and present year of the code. { NEC ),

,and the type of connection to the residence.

Whether it will be mounted to an outside wall of a 2 story residence, or a 1 story residence, makes a difference.

The weatherhead, (Service Entrance Cap) should be 17 feet from the ground, ACCORDING to my city, and county regulations.
(18 feet for some)

Sound ridiculous? Nope. Consider a 1 story residence is more than 12 feet from the ground, to the edge where the roof connects.

Foundation height, plus wall height, plus where the weatherhead pipe goes through the soffit, and at that area of the roof's angle.

Needs to be above the roof. ( 1 story)

For a 2 story dwelling it will be down from the roof.

Cannot be near a window that someone can just reach out, and grab it.
Or deck.

Use common sense, and determine if someone can easily come in contact with the weatherhead, and service utility wires.

Example from a 1 story dwelling, that I just installed a 200 amp service;

I mounted the meter 'can' to the outside wall, at a height of 5 feet, to the center of the meter. (Meter 'can', or meter box = Meter Socket)
But it would be BEST, if you would check the local city, and county regulations.

Meter 'can' must be at a height that an average person can read it, and above a height that a child cannot easily reach it. (Even though meter readers use electronic equipment to read the meter, usually)

MUST be fastened to the wall -> W-E-L-L
Mounted to a backing board that is considered weatherproof.

(I used 3/4 inch treated plywood. Painted it. Back, front, and edges, BEFORE installing. Caulked around the backing board to the siding. Needs to keep water, and bugs out)

Use galvanized screws, or stainless steel screws. (Flat head, large head. 3/4 Inch long for meter can to backing board. 1-1/2 Inch for backing board to wall, and with a countersunk head)

Must be level, and plumb.

(Plumb. Perfectly straight up, and down. Wall siding makes the mounting crooked? Use shims under the backing board, to keep the meter can plumb)

The insulated cable of three wires, that comes from the Service Panel, (Breaker box), and goes to the Meter 'can' that is outside, is the Service Entrance Cable.

[DO NOT use three individual wires. Use a Service Entrance Cable ]

The service entrance cable coming from the service panel, ('Breaker box'), through the dwelling, and into the meter can, must have a Service Entrance Elbow.

Where the service entrance cable meets the wall, (Goes through the wall), coming down from the Meter 'can', there needs to be something to block that hole off, around the service cable.

It also needs to dissuade water from coming in.
It also needs to be sealed with caulking, from it to the dwelling, to keep water, and insects out. (To include ants)

The top of the Meter 'can' has a Raintight Hub on top.
Raintight hub; Square, or rectangle metal plate, with a round hub on top that has threads in it.

Since I installed a 200 Amp service, the pipe (Service Mast) size is 2 inch.
(Inner diameter of pipe)
Use Teflon pipe dope, or Teflon tape, on the threads of the pipe.

I used a metal pipe because it is going through the soffit of my roof, and through the roof itself. The service utility wires coming from the utility pole, will anchor TO that pipe. Not to the house. Where the service utility wires come to the house, it is a one-story height.

Service panel ('Breaker box') is in my back enclosed porch.

The pipe (Service Mast) to the weatherhead is anchored to the outside wall. For my height/length of pipe, I used two strap clamps. Galvanized screws for the strap clamps, and used caulking on the threads. (You are piercing the paint, or outside skin of your siding. Need to make it watertight)

I cut a 2-1/4 inch hole through the soffit, making sure I would go in-between any rafters for the roof.
Same size hole in the roof sheeting, and roofing.
(2 inch pipe, 2-1/4 inch hole)

Where the pipe comes through the roof, you use a metal/rubber jack, on the roof. Since I have shingles, the jack goes under the shingles, for the upper half of the jack, then the bottom of the jack is mounted on top of the shingles.

(Just like mounting a jack for a vent pipe)

I used silicone caulking for the area of jack, to roof. (Under the jack, and on the Shingles)
The weatherhead pipe goes through the roof about 2 feet. It is VERY supportive. (Strong mounting)

You are required to leave 24 inches of wire, sticking out of the weatherhead. (2 feet)
Ask the city utility workers? "Just leave me something to connect to." lol!

Where the wires come out of the weatherhead, there needs to be a drip loop. The service utility wires connect to a service mast clamp, connected to the pipe, (Service Mast), then make a drop loop (drip loop) before they go into the weatherhead.

[ The utility company uses a wedge clamp on the service utility wires, and it connects to the service mast clamp ]

This is for water to run off. Helps keep water that runs down the service utility wires, from coming into the weatherhead's holes.
(Wires are TOO tight in the weatherhead's holes, for ANY of that to happen!)

Use dish soap on the last wire, to help feed it through the pipe, and the weatherhead.
Yes, I know what I stated.

By the time the third wire goes through the weatherhead, it is TIGHT.
You'll be thanking me later, and cussing me if you do not do it right.

With soap on the last wire, and gloves on, (Sissy, lol!), you feed the last wire down though the pipe, TO the meter can. (Weatherhead is NOT installed) (You have already fed the other two wires, down the pipe)

Insulator out of the weatherhead, feed the three wires, ONE at a time, through the weatherhead holes. Yes, soap, and cussing is required.

Try putting a 2/0 copper wire through that insulator. Okay? Sure.
Now wait until it comes to the second wire, THEN the LAST wire.

NO, I DO NOT recommend using your Klien's on that wire, or any of those wires. Cut the insulation, and you will be replacing the entire length of wire.

I used the insulator of the weatherhead as a tool. Insulator removed from weatherhead. Put each wire, one at a time, in one of the holes of the insulator, and made a pre-bend on each wire. Then said a few choice words as I stuffed 'em in the insulator.
Fun stuff. You will be just SO HAPPY!

(Use care so that you do not break the insulator. The insulator in that weatherhead is pretty tough, but let me tell ya,...2/0 wires are TOUGHER! Hold your pinky finger up. Yep, that is how thick they are)

Once the wires are stuffed through the weatherhead's insulator, then you need to push the insulator down the wires, and into the weatherhead. (Yes. More fun stuff)

Put the screws back in the weatherhead, that hold that insulator in.
Remember, leave 2 FEET of wire hanging out of that weatherhead.

ALSO, you have to mark the wire that is used for the Common wire.

(The service utility wires have two HOT wires, and one COMMON wire. The COMMON wire is NOT the Ground wire. The GROUND wire comes up from the ground, or cold water pipe, { Cold water pipe. IF allowed by city, AND county regulations}, and connects to the meter can.

When you go to connect the Common wire to the service meter can, you better keep track of it.
You are supposed to use the white electrical tape, used for marking wires.

Wrap a few wraps around the bottom end of the wires insulation, about two inches up, on the Common wire connecting to the service meter can's lug.

Do the same for the wire coming out of the weatherhead,
This way the utility company will know, which wire is the Common wire.

What have I left out?

A) Service Mast Clamp,

B) Roof Jack,

Doesn't have to be this style. Similar is okay.

C) Service Entrance Cable elbow,

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


Jun 26, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Change the water pump

  • Tools Required
  • J 43651 Water Pump Holding Tool
  • Remove the thermostat housing.
  • Remove the water pump access plate from the front cover.
  • Remove the right hand fender liner.
    1. Important: A drain plug has been provided at the bottom of the water pump assembly for additional coolant drainage from the engine block and water pump.
    Drain the coolant from the water pump using the plug at the bottom of the pump.
    1. mportant: The water pump holding tool supports the sprocket and chain during water pump service. The tool must be used or the balance shaft must be re-timed.
    Install the J 43651 into position.
    1. Tighten the bolts on the water pump holding tool into the threads on the water pump sprocket.
    2. Install the access cover bolts that were removed earlier to secure the water pump holding tool to the front cover assembly.
    3. Remove the 3 inner water pump sprocket to water pump blots.
      1. Important: Be sure to remove both water pump bolts from the front of the engine block.
      Remove the 2 water pump bolts.
      Remove the rear 2 water pump bolts.
      1. Remove the water pump.
      2. Remove and discard the water pump O-ring seal.
      Installation Procedure
      1. Important: Prior to installing the water pump, read the entire procedure. This will help avoid balance shaft chain re-timing and ensure proper sealing.
      Install a NEW water pump O-ring seal.

      1. Important: A guide pin can be created to aid in water pump alignment. Use a M 6 m x 6 mm stud. Thread the pin into the water pump sprocket.
      Using the guide pin, align the pin with the water pump holding tool.
      1. Position the water pump against the engine block and hand tighten the water pump bolts.
      2. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.
      Install the inner water pump sprocket bolts. After 2 are snug, remove the guide pin and install the 3rd bolt.
      Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
      1. Tighten the water pump sprocket bolts last. Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
      2. Remove the J 43651.
      3. Install the water pump access plate and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
      4. Install the right hand fender liner.
      5. Install the thermostat housing.

Aug 29, 2011 | 2006 Pontiac Solstice

1 Answer

How to take off the water punp

1. Drain the cooling system until the coolant is below the level of the water pump. 2. Remove the drive belt guard. 3. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. 4. Remove the drive belt. 5. Remove the water pump pulley bolts. 6. Remove the water pump pulley. 7. Remove the water pump bolts. 8. Remove the water pump. 9. Remove the water pump gasket. 10. Clean the water pump mating surfaces. Installation Procedure 1. Install the water pump gasket. 2. Install the water pump Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. 3. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 4. Install the water pump pulley. 5. Install the water pump pulley bolts. 6. Install the drive belt. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 inch lbs.). 7. Install the drive belt guard. 8. Fill the cooling system

Aug 13, 2010 | 2002 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Remove and replace the water pump buick rendezvou 2003 cost and do it yourself instructions . can i do it myself concerned with loosening the serpentine belt and needing special tools?

1. Drain the cooling system until the coolant is below the level of the water pump. 2. Remove the drive belt guard. 3. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. 4. Remove the drive belt. 5. Remove the water pump pulley bolts. 6. Remove the water pump pulley. 7. Remove the water pump bolts. 8. Remove the water pump. 9. Remove the water pump gasket. 10. Clean the water pump mating surfaces. Installation Procedure 1. Install the water pump gasket. 2. Install the water pump Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. 3. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 4. Install the water pump pulley. 5. Install the water pump pulley bolts. 6. Install the drive belt. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 inch lbs.). 7. Install the drive belt guard. 8. Fill the cooling system
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Jul 21, 2010 | 2002 Buick Rendezvous

2 Answers

Leaking sunroof with 2 inches of water in car

I had the same problem... fairly simple fix. Just park the truck so the front end is lower than the back. Open then sun roof and you will see in each corner on the front of the sun roof that there is a little hole..this is the drain hole. Pour some water down the hole and see if either one is backed up. (If so keep reading for the solution) If not, park so the back of the truck is lower than the front. The channel that leads to the front drain also leads back behind the rear doors to the rear drain for the sun roof. Pour water in the channel and see if it drains. It will drain right in front of the rear tire, just behind the running board. If you dont get any drainage, you found the clogged drain. To clean the front draines, simply blow it out with an air compressor. For the back ones, you should check underneath the vehicle right in front of the rear tire and see if you can find the drain. If there is debris or dirt there, it could be clogging it. Clean it up and try again to see if you can get some drainage. If it isn't draining and the bottom of the drain is clean, it looks like you are going to have to tear down the head liner and try the same steps as cleaning the front draines. Good luck, and I hope this helps!

May 20, 2009 | 2003 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

2004 Expedition Sun Roof Leaks

you have 2 drains in the front that go down the a pillars and dump near the fenders.

The rear usually go down the B pillar or C pillar and out thebottom near the rocker panel.

Blow them out from the top with compressed air and make sure you have air flow at the exits.. Open the roof to see drain holes in the four corners.

  • The roof opening panel leaks
  • Roof opening panel adjustment.
  • Front rail seal.
  • Drain tube attachment points.
  • Roof opening panel water trough and seal.
  • Roof opening panel drain hose.
  • Roof opening panel seal.
  • Roof opening panel.

1 is the drain hoses

Apr 12, 2009 | 2004 Ford Expedition

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