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I have 435 Massey. It was making a bit of noise in 4WD . I took it out of 4WD and it sounded fine. Oil was leaking out of the drive shaft covers. Would it be a seal/bearing in the 4WD gear box .

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It can if its leaking from seal but for noise from shaft s can be yoke rubbing metal on metal or spline shaft damaged causing problem but you will need to inspect the bearings and pop the cover on 4wd differential to check gears or drain fluid from transfer case and check for metal filings or fluid problems

Posted on Aug 19, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 Mitsubishi Galant, EA3A 2.4l motor. Oil leal

it could also be the oil pan gasket, or the manifold gasket. if it's the manifold gasket, when you remove the manifold to replace it, take the time to clean out the mixing chamber. it'll be filled with gunk and cleaning will improve gas mileage.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Mitsubishi Galant, EA3A 2.4l motor. Oil leal

don't use 20w50 that is too heavy an oil for that motor. the most i would use is like a 10w40 and that is a last resort. your valves need adjusting or the hydraulic lash adjusters may be gunked up. there is a chemical called auto-rx (search web) that could help you out. just follow the directions for it. the only other oil seals i can think of are oil pan gasket, oil filter gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gasket.

Posted on May 30, 2009

  • 199 Answers

SOURCE: '95 tahoe making noise when accelerating; sounds

no it should not spin when is in 2wd thanks

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: front drive shaft has a bad grinding noise and the

Found a website that builds brand new drive shafts with spicer u-joints for a reasonable price

http://www.alldrivelines.com/Jeep.html

Posted on Jun 08, 2010

  • 365 Answers

SOURCE: ford 2001 econoline rear axle oil leak at drive

if it is leaking from the front of the diff where the drive line goes into it you have to drop the rear of the drive shaft from the diff, if you look at the flange on the diff where the driveshaft bolted to you will see a nut, possibly about 25 to 30mm, you have to remove the nut and remove the flange off the spline of the input shaft of the diff, the nut is really tight and it is difficult to get enough pressure on the nut to "crack it" while the car is on the ground as there is not enough room to get a long bar on the socket to remove the nut. if you happen to get the nut loose and you remove the flange get a big screwdriver and pry the seal out of the diff, check the surface where the seal ran on the input shaft as it may have a groove worn into it, if it has the groove the new seal will still leak, they make a sleeve you can slide over the shaft to give the seal a good surface to run on, we call them a speedy sleeve here but not sure what they may call them there. replace everything in the reverse order that you removed it and don't forget to tension the big nut that holds the flange onto the input shaft

Posted on Jun 15, 2010

Testimonial: "many thanks, I didn't know about the flange nut and torque needed. Sleeve I understand, thanks. "

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