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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Front Wheel bearing removal
If it is a hub assembly you dont remove the bearing, its replaced as one piece. If the parts store sold you just the bearing you WILL NEED a press. There is no trick, you will only ruine the hub and bearing.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
SOURCE: wheel bearings
the wheel bearin and hub is one . the bearin is press in . some times it just easer to change the hole thing .and you will have to disconect the tierod upper and lower ball joint . i hope this help you
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Take off the wheel, then the brake caliper, noow you have the roter. in the center is a cap, the center cap, this comes off by pruing it off with a screwdriver. Inside that a retaning pin, take that out, then a nut cover, and nut with grooves in it from where you took out the pin. It is good to mark about where it was so when you put it together, you will not overtighten it.
Take that nut off, then you should be able to take off the whole assembly, bearings and all. If this is a sealed unit, you have to but a roter that will have the guts already inside it. make sure you clean off all of the old grease, you are going to replace critical parts, so you need new grease for them. Also make sure your spildle is not grooved, if so haw bad, you might replace it to if all gualled up.
on a sealed unit you just reverse the steps from taking it off.
if not you have to knock out the old races in the caliper, the one side by a wide screwdriver and hammer, there are pullers, but from the way it sounds, it is in there tight. Just be carefull not to kill the sides and rotate it around when doing this. once it is out, do the other side, find a socket that size, one thak will fit in the race almost to the edges and beat it out. now make sure the caliper is in a flat surface, and use a blanket or something toi avoid knicking the thing.
once both are out, just reverse the process, grease the inside just a bit and when you put the race in use a socket that is the size of the race, and beat it in evenly.grease your bearings, make sure you do one side at a time, and putting them back on the spindle is a cake walk compared to what you just have done.
hope this helps
Posted on May 26, 2009
SOURCE: how to remove rear bearing hub
The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)
Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)
Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)
The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.
Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.
The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.
The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.
I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00
I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.
24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)
You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.
Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
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3. Remove retaining ring. If the bearing inner race remains on wheel hub, grind a section of inner race until approximately 0.020 in (0.5 mm) remains. Remove race with a chisel.
4. Remove wheel bearing with suitable tool.
• Do not remove dust cover unless necessary. • Do not reuse dust cover if removed. 5. Mark relative positions of dust cover and knuckle for proper reassembly. 6. Remove dust cover with a chisel.
• Do not remove wheel hub bolt unless necessary. • Do not reuse wheel hub bolt if removed. 7. Remove wheel hub bolt with a press.
Assembly 1. Press in new wheel studs. Front wheel hub press in either bolt turning or loosening by the torque of 108.5 lb•ft (147 N•m, 15 kg•m) shall not be premissible.
2. Mark new dust cover to match the removed dust cover. 3. Align mark on new dust cover with knuckle. 4. Install new dust cover with suitable tool.
5. Install new wheel bearing with suitable tool. 6. Install front wheel hub assembly with suitable tool.
• Use a new oil seal, and apply grease to seal. • Install oil seal so that it is flush with knuckle. 7. Install new oil seal with SST(0K993 331 016).
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