Hi, Fourthquantu if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water, etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-how-to-swap-carburetor-main-jets hyosung gv250 carb balance with 2 bottle manometer http://www.banici.pl/bam/Tom/GV125/Instrukcje/GV125_SERVICE_MANUAL_EN.pdf https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm https://www.manualslib.com/manual/860797/Hyosung-Gv250-Ei.html#product-GV125%20-%20CATALOGUE
Have you any compression? If not, pour a few ounces of motoroil in the spark plug hole to place some oil on top of the piston and let it soak for a day or so. Fit an old spark plug and check compression. It should be good now. Turn the engine over a few times to blow the excess oil out and fit a new plug. After checking the petrol and oils is mixing OK and the carb is "wet", try starting again.
Make sure the gear box has fresh oil and any hydraulics have fresh fluid. Hope you get it going.
exhausts are a dark art.......to gain maximum power ..they will need to be of a tuned length...and of certain diameter at certain points....
if your having them made by a reputible(sp) companythey should be abe to get you in the right ball park...
take into consideration groung clearance etc,
I am a Harley guy, but your bike might have a BAC sensor, it is made to shut the fuel off if you tip the bike. Simple test, is to get to the air breather, crack the throttle, use a spray bottle spray so gas in the breather inlet. Then try to start it, if if starts and runs just a bit and dies, it means you are not getting fuel and the is a sensor somewhere.
I've been told that if you disconnect the battery for 30 min. then reconnect, it coould reset it.
I hope this at least gives you a direction.
hi,i dont know why you would have to drain a battery but however,you have effectively flattened it by draining the electrolite out,DO NOT TRY AND CHARGE IT,IT WILL EXPLODE, the only thing you can do now is take the battery to an auto electrician have it refilled and recharged(if it still usable)if it is not still usable then you will be in for a new one,hope this helps
Hi, Heidiyoung26 before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start 3 Things to Look for When Your Motorcycle Won Start The Allstate Blog http://www.banici.pl/bam/Tom/GV125/Instrukcje/GV125_SERVICE_MANUAL_EN.pdf https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf https://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf
Hi, Kalliope before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, look for, corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://safer-turn.com/smart-turn-system https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRJFz_O8FTI https://www.manualslib.com/brand/hyosung https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm http://mybikemanuals.com/hyosung
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://korider.com/index.php?topic=25724.0 How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD https://www.manualslib.com/brand/hyosung https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm http://mybikemanuals.com/hyosung
Hi, Anonymous external oil deposits fall into 3 categories:
1. WEEPAGE is the oil that is sweated pass gaskets, seals, o-rings, and crankcase seams, it's covered by dry dust and is normal for older engines with lots of miles, no repair is necessary.
2. SEEPAGE is the same as weepage except the deposit is wet and confines itself to a specific area, the repair is optional depending on the owner's cleanliness criteria, the deposit location and the weight of his bag of "DRACHMA"
3. LEAKAGE is the same as seepage except it is enough to drop to the ground leaving a spot. Repair as necessary.
To find the source of your oil leak, start at the point where you see oil and trace its path going up and forward, blowing baby powder from the palm of your hand will help in those difficult to see areas if there is too much oil present then buy a spray can of engine degreaser apply it to the affected area then rinse off with a pressure wand or garden hose, use compressed air to blow off excess water or just let it drip dry, take your bike for a 15 minute ride and check for the leak.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/141250-Hyosung-oil-leak Stopping an Oil Leak on Motorcycle Bar Leaks Diagnostic and Easy Fix Leaking counter shaft seal https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0nMrczGO0I How to find source of Motorcycle Oil Leak Works 100 of the time self help...
Hi, Mikiehall205 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. A faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Need help with no spark issue How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle Hyosung Aquila 250 Service Manual https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm HYOSUNG GV250 User Manual