Question about Hyosung Motorcycles
Battery won't hold charge @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Well, if the Batt don't hold charge then check the regulator on the bike with an Ohmmeter you can buy one at an Auto parts shop....motor running you should see 14.5 V if not then the Reg is out!!!
Posted on May 24, 2011
SOURCE: Battery won't hold a charge
If your battery will not hold a charge when it has been taken out of the bike and charged in a stand-alone setting, then one or more of the cells has become sulfated and has gone "dead." Also, as lead acid batteries age, each cell naturally loses the ability to hold its full charge, even if they're still providing the right voltage. I've found that motorcycle batteries are finicky--I've had brand name batteries fail after a single riding season, and I had one generic battery that lasted me for 4+ years of steady riding in summer heat and New England winter cold.
If your battery will hold a charge (and pass a battery load test, available for free at just about any auto parts store) when it is out of your bike but goes dead after it's installed in your bike, you have an open circuit in your bike that is draining the battery even after the key has been pulled from the ignition. One way to check for this problem is by going to the fuse box and pulling each fuse, one at a time, and using a multimeter to bridge the fuse terminals to see if current is present. Unless you have something like an electronic alarm and/or a clock built into your instrumentation, you should see no voltage across any of the fuse terminals. If you do see voltage, then it's time to start troubleshooting why this is occurring. The most likely places for a short circuit are in the ignition switch itself (an internal contact may have gotten distorted and thus provide power even when it shouldn't be) and, less likely, if the insulation has worn through in the hot lead off your battery or any of the wires that branch off that lead.
I would not be surprised if your battery has sulfated and simply needs to be replaced.
Posted on Jun 06, 2011
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