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Got the quad running. What will cause the stator to continue to draw power and make the case hot? It completely killed the new battery in about 20 minutes

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  • Power Master
  • 58,391 Answers

Hi Jesse, if your battery is being drained that quick you either have a hard short or bad stator, rotor, and or voltage regulator. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Oct 01, 2015

  • Jesse Lewis
    Jesse Lewis Oct 01, 2015

    All wires,connections,fuses, and contacts look good. As soon as positive cable is hooked up is when it starts getting hot. You can hear slight buzz of electricity in the housing. Also what would have caused it to completely shut down while running? I was riding maybe 20, minutes. Also it has a remote start/alarm module that is plugged in and key fob does not work, what will happen if I unplugged it?, or what pin on cdi controls this unit? It is a china quad, have no clue exactly what year, make, or model. How do I find this info? Bought the bike last Friday, it had been sitting a little over a year. Everything was froze up on it. I got auto clutch,& brakes unstuck. Cleaned tank & carb, installed inline filter, new plug and cut plug wire and put on new head, runs good when it will run. Not sure what else to do. Never worked on anything before this

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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sodeep
  • 3267 Answers

SOURCE: battery wont charge more than 12.25 at 2000 rpm

Check the rectifier, its responsible for charging the battery when running, the fuse too, however the rectifier if it can not be repaired, better to buy a new one......................sodeep

Posted on May 26, 2009

czaa
  • 5944 Answers

SOURCE: Battery would not charge while bike is running.

u sure the alternator is producing-hows the wire connections to batery-inspec fuses n other partz of harness

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: After motor gets hot about 5 miles or so, it starts cutting out.

I replaced the spark plug and that seemed to fix it. Mine is a Sunl
SL150-6 with a GY6 engine. It takes a Champion Copper Plus plug
number 808. I noticed that the gap on the new plug was about 1/3 that of the plug that I removed. I left it gaped that way and it started and has not bogged down since. The old plug was ngk that came in it, but it has flooded out since I bought it. It has 900 miles on in and runs better now than it did when I first got it.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

Testimonial: "It fixed my problem"

  • 4362 Answers

SOURCE: wont recharge the battery when riding and gauges

I could be realted to the Stator, but much more likely diodes or regulator. It sounds like you are running on battery alone. You need 13.8 to 14,5 volts at the battery at 2000 rpm. I suspect that you have 12.x, and are not charging...

Posted on Mar 06, 2011

SuperTech-11
  • 1591 Answers

SOURCE: I HYave Yamaha YFM600 FWAK

Next step is to check all your fuses and the ignition coils and wiring to them.

Posted on Mar 10, 2011

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1995 VF750. The bike will start after i take off of the trickle charger. Idled for about 20 min then died and won't start. Put back on the trickle for a couple minutes and it started again. I think the...


It has either a generator or alternator style system. So ya your killing the battery and need to stop that till you fix the generator charging system. Check the fuses and wires for any breaks. May need a new stator or charging controller if the fuses are not the problem. May be even a bad ground wire.

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You need to check the output of your alternator. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the outputs.

First connect the meter across your battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal, black meter lead to the negative or a good ground. Put the function selector of your meter in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle, 2000 RPM. Your meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. Turn all lights on and make sure the voltage stays the same.

If your meter reads low in this test, you need to check the output of the stator. On the lower left front of the engine, you'll see a plug where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine case. Unplug this plug and look into the part that is in the engine case. You'll see two metal contacts. These are what you're going to put your meter leads to in this test. Since the voltage is now AC volts, it makes no difference which lead goes to which contact. Put your meter's function selector in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert the meter leads into the contacts. The meter should read at least 30 volts AC voltage here.

If the alternator stator test fails, you need a new stator. If it passes the test but the voltage to the battery is low, you need a new regulator.

If both pass the test, you need to evaluate the current draw of any extra lights or other equipment that you may have put on the bike. If your equipment is drawing more current than the alternator is capable of producing, a slow drawdown of the battery is the results.

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No this is NOT normal. This is an indication that you are drawing too much current for some reason or that you have a bad connection at the plug where the wires from the regulator plugs into the case. By stator wires, I'm assuming you are talking about the two wires that come from the engine case up to the voltage regulator. The stator is actually inside the primary and you can't get to those wires to feel how hot they are.

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