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Hi i have a 2013 tri-glide ultra classic i put new back brakes on and the parking brake is not adjusted to work would that make the brakes squeal

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  • 197 Answers

At a wild guess if discs on back probably have a lip on rim worn in it can be same drums did you put anti squeal pads in and grease edges new pads clean thoroughly if your not sure i would get mechanic to check it brakes are usually important

Posted on Aug 21, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: 93 Ford thunderbird parking brake adjustment

on most of the cars us use a special spanner tool that resembles a bent screwdriver. you pull the plastic cap out from the back of the drum and then just turn the ajustment wheel till you feal it tighten up a litle. Remember to put the plastic cap back on. Also a old trick most people don't know about is put the car in reverse in a parking lot, and slam on the brakes. most cars have a auto ajustment that they never use.

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

Anonymous

  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: parking brake cable adjustment

if its rear shoes there is a cog wheel that turns in and out to close and spread the shoes just turn the wheel to make the shoes go in a little at a time and the drum will go back on

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: how to adjust parking brake 05 impala.

u will nead to get under the car. how u go about that is up to u but do it safe an have mate around. go to your front door this is the best place easy to reach your hand brack hear. look where the gear stick is up front u nead to be under the car where the gear stick is find it then look a bit downback from gear stick an u will see it. when u do the hand brake up do not hav it on u wont to have max 8 click,s an u,ll be fine. hope this helps u

Posted on May 28, 2009

Anonymous

  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: How do I change the front and rear brakes on a

Not too hard - Undo the two bolts on the caliper and then seperate the caliper and pull the old ones out. Insert the new ones and put the bolts back in to hold the caliper back together and then install them back on the bike with the two retaining bolts. Use a bit of lock tight (Blue) on the threads. Warning do not let anyone apply pressure on the brakes while you have them off the bike or you will have a mess and/or a problem.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

Anonymous

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2007 Electra glide Ultra Classic. The cruise will not e

You may need a new ECM module .

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

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2013 Harley Davidson Trike Tri Glide Ultra Classic rear brakes squeak


Hi, Steven brake squeak is usually caused by excessive heat build-up that produces a micro-thin shiny glazed film on the brake pads and brake disc rotor that is harder than chicken lips and everyone knows chicken lips are harder than diamonds. Basically, the leading edge of the brake pads acts like the needle on a record player and the brake disc rotor as the record producing the infamous "SQUEAK MUSIC". You may have a pad in which the material was not blended evenly and you are encountering hard spots that are causing the squeak. Another possibility is that the pads are equipped with a wear sensor. This is a small metal tab attached to the pad that rubs on the rotor when the pad is worn to the minimum usable thickness The glaze can easily be removed by sanding the pads in a circular motion on a flat piece of metal, glass or concrete covered by a medium grit sandpaper until the shine is gone and raw brake pad material is visible. The brake disc rotor needs to be deglazed with a power tool, air or electric, that has a 2" sanding pad of Scotch Brite or medium to fine grit sandpaper until the shine is gone. Chamfering the leading and trailing edge of the brake pads at a 45-degree angle will act like a dull needle prolonging or totally eliminating the return Mr. Squeak.
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1 Answer

Changing rear brake pads on a 2011 tri glide ultra classic


A TriGlide's rear brakes are quite different from a two-wheeled Ultra, which seems to be what everyone has been talking about. In order to change the pads:
While the bike is on the ground, break the lug nuts loose on both sides. Release the parking brake. Then lift the bike so that the rear tires are far enough off the ground that you can take a rear tire off and get it out from under the fender.
Start with the left rear tire, as it is the furthest away from the master cylinder. With the tire out of the way, you can see the caliper. You'll see a lever on the caliper for the parking brake on the inboard side of the caliper. There is n Ny-Lock type nut on the lever shaft. Remove the nut and lever, and back the bolt out. The bolt is what applies pressure to the caliper piston when you set the parking brake, and if it isn't backed out enough, it will prevent you from pushing the piston sufficiently to put the new pads in.
There are two bolts in the caliper that capture the pads. Remove the bolts and pads. You can use one of the pads and a C-clamp to now push the piston in. Or, you may be able to push the piston in by hand.
While you have the caliper off, there is a bushing on the top and bottom that allows the caliper to self-center as the pads wear. They should move in and out of the caliper housing with a little resistance. It's a good idea to check them, and take them out and clean and lubricate them with a thin coat of anti-sieze and reinstall. If they have a lot of corrosion on them, you may want to replace.
It's also recommended that you bleed the brakes, as the brake fluid has a tendency to absorb moisture over time. As the fluid gets hot, the water will cause bubbles to form, and you'll loose stopping power. (Don't try to bleed the brakes until the pads and caliper have been reinstalled and bolted in over the rotor)
Install the new pads, and reinstall the caliper. The pad kit you bought from H-D should have new bolts to put in the caliper for the parking brake, so replace the bolt, running it in far enough so you feel it contacting the piston. Put the lever back on so that it is resting against the stop on the caliper in the fully released position, and put a new Ny-Lock nut on that should have come in the kit.
Now bleed the brake line. Keep bleeding until clear fluid flows, being sure you don't introduce air into the line.
When everything has been tightened to the proper torque, put the tire and lug nuts back on. Repeat for the right side.
Once you've got everything back together, back off the adjustment on the parking brake lever, and then set the brake. If the brakes don't hold when you push the bike, release the lever and tighten the adjustment. Repeat until the brakes hold the bike. Make sure you tighten the set screw the holds the lever adjustment in position.
You should then be good to go. Be sure to wash down any brake fluid that may have dripped, as it will ruin paint finishes.

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