Question about Ultra Motorcycles
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You don't say what year your bike is, but I know a lot of guys with newer sporsters 06 and up have had similar complaints. The problem usually goes away once every thing drys out. You might want to try putting a little dialitic grease on the fuses and buses.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.
If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.
Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.
If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time to help me out, very informative. Thank you again."
Looking at the plugs on the meter side of the harness: for the speedometer there is a three position plug. Pin #1 is Orange, Pin #2 is White/Green and Pin #3 is Black. for the Tachometer there is a six position plug, Pin #1 is Orange, Pin #2 is Pink, Pin #3 is Black/Yellow, Pin #4 is Green/Red, Pin #5 is Yellow/Red, Pin #6 is Black
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
chk backwards to your turn signal control unit. The brake lights and rurn signals are routed in a way that would affect each other.Is this a four wire or?Chk fuses 1st. Good Luck- -Ned- A good grd is important.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
I believe the turn sigs, speedo and cruise are all controlled in part at least by a module under the fairing. It may need replacement or it could just be a loose wire. Sounds more like a loose wire plug or bundle, if intermittent.
Posted on Jun 10, 2010
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