Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Yes they are plugged if they have any ethanol fuel in the fuel system and the fuel system had no stabilizer added. The fuel system will need cleaning

Triumph... | Answered 1 hour ago


If you follow the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid relay and/or look around your battery storage area you should see somewhere either as part of a small bank or actually on the starter solenoid relay itself - a fuse. Usually the same as most cars take - not the very small square fuses the newer vehicles use, but a normal square fuse. If you pull that out and check it - you may have just blown a fuse. - actually yours may be a little farther away. 7 & 9 are your main fuses. No light/no crank - you should definitely check those fuses. If that's no the issue just comment or reach out and I'll go further with you. All The Best, Justin Lee, 17 South Industries, LLC
neutral-light-light-up-when-in-neutral-4n3y21cmsqpgtsjshk50qfrx-5-0.png

Suzuki... | Answered 6 hours ago


It sounds like the carb jetting is plugged up so that carbs should be removed and cleaned! When you first start the bike keep it idling by having someone hold it on and at the same time light touch the front and rear exhaust pipes. The carb that is working will have a hot pipe and the one not working will be cooler or cold.

Yamaha... | Answered 10 hours ago


6.2 Oz per side (dry) and top up to 4.92" both sides with 20W fork oil.

Genuine... | Answered 24 hours ago


Lightly .... very, very lightly, seat the screw then back it out 1-1/2 turns.

Do not seat the screw.

Motorcycles | Answered Yesterday


First off, I put a brick under the kickstand to get my bike near level...then i gathered the tools needed. 5mm Alan Head (Hex) Bit, 8mm wrench, phillips head screwdriver, and a vacuum pump (not necessary but very helpful if you're doing it solo.

Attachment 51703

Next step is to remove the left rear cylinder side cover. three 5mm bolts hold this in place.


Unscrew and remove the resevoir cap and diaphram carefully. Cover your paint with a towel (I was probably a little overdue for a fluid bleed...)
Suck out the old fluid from the resevoir using the pump (or a turkey baster) and refill with new DOT 4 brake Fluid (or DOT 3 or DOT 5.1)
Attach a plastic tube to the clutch bleeder valve, set up your vacuum pump, and loosen the valve using an 8mm wrench.
Now, get to pumping...watching the level in the resevoir as to not let it suck any air. When the fluid coming out of the valve is clear, the system is flushed.
(NOTE: if you are doing this by hand, (1) loosen the bleeder valve, (2) squeeze and hold the clutch lever, (3) tighten the valve, (4) release the lever...then repeat 1 through 4 about 50 more times being sure to watch the fluid level in the resevoir)
Once you are done, close the valve to 4.3 ft/lbs and refill the resevoir. Then replace the diaphram and resevoir cap.
Put the rubber cover on the bleeder valve and re-install the left rear cylinder cover. Check the fluid is at the appropriate level...

Yamaha... | Answered Yesterday


WASTED TYPING, YOU NEVER ASK ANY QUESTION.

Suzuki... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components has been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.600rr.net/vb/62-troubleshooting/200297-what-would-cause-my-bike-lose-power-sputter-while-riding.html https://www.flickr.com/groups/501290@N25/discuss/72157607336392431/
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual
https://www.600rr.net/vb/62-troubleshooting/200297-what-would-cause-my-bike-lose-power-sputter-while-riding.html

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Stevedeetayl and the usual suspects are:
1. Blown instrument fuse.
2. Faulty sending unit.
3. Faulty wiring between the sending unit and gauge.
4. Faulty ground or power connection.
5. Bad fuel gauge.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/158967-Fuel-gauge-problems-Hyosung-GT250R
No fuel gauge No problem
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Demetrim and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty wiring to any safety switch.
2. Safety switches loose at the mounting point.
3. Faulty kickstand safety switch.
4. Failed kickstand safety switch circuit diode.
5. Stretched side stand spring.
6. Side stand not coming up far enough to disengage switch.
7. Faulty clutch lever safety switch.
8. Faulty neutral safety switch.
9. Clutch not properly adjusted.
10. Clutch plates sticking, forward lurch
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Stalls when put in first gear
Motorcycle Stalls when Clutch Released how to fix
HYOSUNG Aquil GV650 Service Manual https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GV 650 EFI Owner Manual

2006 Hyosung GV... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Grounded temperature light/gauge circuit.
2. Faulty thermostat temperature sensor.
3. Faulty cylinder head heat sensor.
4. Faulty thermostat.
5. Faulty light or gauge.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://korider.com/index.php?topic=11372.0
https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?333640-temp-gauge-not-working-650ie
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://alpha-sports.com/hyosung_parts.htm
HYOSUNG GT 650 Manual

2005 Hyosung GT... | Answered Yesterday

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