RVs - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It probably needs a new thermo-coupler. Check on ebay for one, or at your local camper-RV parts department.

RVs | Answered Yesterday

If you lift the foot of the bed, you will have storage. Look for a hole on the near edge of the foot to lift the secondary floor panel. In here you will have access to the motor, wires and guide rails for the slide. Depending on what you need in this area (troubleshooting), keep in mind you should have 12VDC unless the battery disconnect is off/open.

RVs | Answered 2 days ago

Check for fuses connecting the inverter. There are typically two visible on the exterior (20 or 30 amp blade style). If either or both are blown, you will get faults. Something else you may want to check is the incoming voltage. Power surges and voltage drops in L1 or L2 of the 50 Amp shore power could also give inverter faults.

RVs | Answered on Jan 12, 2019

At the Dump Valves, Large and Small Tubes, open the one for Grey Water only which is usually the small tube. Pull the Handle of that one at a Dump Station of course. Grey water should also not be dumped anywhere else but a Dump Station.

RVs | Answered on Jan 11, 2019

Typically, if it has a pressure regulator it will be built into the city water inlet. Most do not have a built-in pressure regulator.

RVs | Answered on Jan 10, 2019

All trailer (pretty much) are leveled the same way. The stabilizers are NOT designed to level the trailer - they will only hold it steady once you've leveled it. Start with a carpenter's spirit level. I use a 4 inch long one with a magnet on one side. Put the level on the floor in front of the fridge, cross-wise to the trailer. Put blocks or wedges under the low side tires and roll up onto them to get it level side-to-side. Now put down the landing gear and disconnect from the truck. Turn the level fore and aft on the floor and adjust the landing gear up or down to get the trailer level front to back. Once level in both directions, put the stabilizers down and extend any slides etc.

RVs | Answered on Jan 10, 2019

Is it a P30 chassis with the auto park brake? If so, there would be what looks like a brake drum where the driveshaft goes into the transmission. That brake is always applied until the motor is running and then is hydraulically held in the release position. The mechanism is integral with the foot brake but even with the foot brake off it will stay engaged. Under the driver seat area underneath the coach is the mechanism. If this is the problem you need to figure out how to release that brake. If you can find a way to pull the cable against the spring tension and hold it there (clamp it somehow) it will free up the system. Of course if you already have the transmission disconnected from the motor then disregard all this and assume i misunderstood the problem.

RVs | Answered on Jan 10, 2019

Holiday Rambler has a good list of support documents; EI. owner's manuals:https://www.holidayrambler.com/rv-owners-manuals

Holiday Rambler... | Answered on Jan 09, 2019

1. Look on the entrance door frame of the Camper. On the camper that I had about 30 years ago that is where I found a tag with the serial number and manufacture date of the camper.

2. Check all of the interior cabinets of the camper, there could be a tag on the back of the cabinet door or on the interior walls of the cabinet. Make sure you check all cabinets starting at the front of the camper.

3. Now check all of the exterior storage pods, including water heater and heater compartments. Remember to look at the back of the pod doors as well as the interior walls.

4. As a last resort you may have to remove the camper from your truck and check the parts of the camper that sit in your truck bed including the underside of cab over portion of your camper.

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RVs | Answered on Jan 09, 2019

Here is the URL for the Owner's Manual: https://www.holidayrambler.com/resources/media/manuals/2017-Holiday_Rambler_Class_A_Gas.pdf. Your unit may not be the "gas" model but this gets you into the ball park. Your unit will have a switch marked "auxiliary" this is the battery cut of switch. Tripping that switch may get the result you require. Otherwise: Owner's manual herein supplied.

RVs | Answered on Jan 09, 2019

There are three possible causes:
1) Check for a GFI, Ground Fault Interruption plug. One may have tripped. These GFI's are located near the kitchen sink, or the bathroom sink, or if you have a block heater, there will be on on that circuit.
2) Have you at any time tried to use a kettle along with a heater, along with another high current draw appliance; If you have your coach may be equipped with an inline breaker which you will have to find;
3) Do you have an inverter/converter, EI, Magnum, or, Xantrex. Magnum with an MEARC or MERC remote, will trip if the current draw has been excessive at some time. They should reset though when you unplug from the shore post and plug it back in.

Coachmen RVs | Answered on Jan 09, 2019

hi, its either the retarder shut off switch or possibly a master switch. If its the retarder shut of switch it should put a warning light on the dash when switched off. Jon

RVs | Answered on Jan 08, 2019

If it's still in limp mode it will refuse to go over 3500 RPMs no matter what. Does it slow down more than usual if you shift into a lower gear on a hill? Otherwise I'd go have the mechanic test your fuel injection system. Probably choked up.

RVs | Answered on Jan 08, 2019

Tells me nothing. It could be the ebrake is on. The air filter is clogged. How about its out of gas. Need more info. When it happens if it just started. Have you had any issues before this.

Fleetwood 2008... | Answered on Jan 08, 2019

Take the stripped part to a machine shop and ask if there is a Helicoil insert to fit it? The will drill it out and lock the insert in. Of they can make a whole new piece.

RVs | Answered on Jan 07, 2019

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