There are all manner of sticky stuff available and many available only to trade and industry and these of course usually outperform what is available domestically.
Besides the above there is a wide variety of silicones, polyurethanes, and adhesives available from retailers or trade outlets but in quantities too great for your task to be economic. What many people do have in a kitchen drawer is a latex based contact adhesive or a general purpose impact adhesive and a few blobs of either will suffice if the hose is first retained with adhesive tape while the glue dries.
Possible the defrost thermostat is bad and need to be replaced. Not allowing the evaporator coil ice buildup to melt , which acts like an insulation and restricts the air flow in the freezer compartment.
The problem here is your water valve. It does not shut off all the way and allows very slow water flow through the water line. It is so small that it freezes in the supply tube causing a blockage. When your ice maker calls for water the pressure from the blockage pops the line out causing your leak.
You need to replace your water valve. Dual valve at the back of the fridge.."water inlet valve")
I found this website about 2 weeks ago. I and read the postings about replacing the control panel. I own the GSS22SGRF SS. This thing was driving me and my wife absolutely insane. We live in a smaller house and the howling noise was so bad we could hear it over the TV at normal volumes. I would have to crank the surround sound to not hear it. They are not kidding when they say it just gets louder. Anyway a year after it has been doing it or about 10 days ago when I ordered the control board the refrigerator stopped dispensing water and ice along with making a clicking sound. When I opened the door the digital temperature setting displays would turn off and on in succession with the clicking noise. I was like great, I just dropped $100 dollars on this control panel and 2 other things are now going wrong with my fridge.
Anyway I get the part on Wednesday and waited for my dad to come over and help me out just in case. We pull out the fridge and I am not kidding but it only took about 10-15 minutes to swap out the panels. All of the wires on this model come with connectors so we didn't have to cut 1 wire, all you had to do was plug them in and set the ground. I could have done it myself, too easy. We plug the thing back in, put it into position and BAM!!! everything is fixed. The water and ice machine are back to normal, not one howling or clicking sound for over 24 hours now. Best $100 I have spent in a while. Would have costed me a $100 just to have someone come out and look at it. I will never buy a GE refrigerator again based on the customer service I got when I called in but if it wasn't for this post I guess I would be out of pocket another $1900 because I was about a day away from throwing this thing in the trash!!!! GE NEEDS TO REALIZE THAT IF THIS PROBLEM IS HAPPENING THIS OFTEN TO STEP UP AND AT LEAST SUPPLY THE REPLACEMENT PART. I GUESS THEY HAVEN'T FIGURED OUT THAT THIS MIGHT NOT COST THEM RIGHT NOW BUT IT WILL COST THEM AT LEAST ONE PURCHASE IN THE FUTURE.
The defrost function on your refrigerator has malfunctioned. It is a possibility that That it could be the heating element, the temp sensor, or the main board. I am posting a couple of videos to help you out.
This next video will show you a defrost issue in a top bottom fridge and explain how a refrigerator functions. Now all fridges function on the same principle on cooling and defrosting however the only difference you will usually find is location of the coil whether it is a side by side or freezer on the bottom.