Top 20 Summit FFBF245SS Stainless Steel 9.85 Cu Ft Refrigerator Bottom Freezer, Energy Star Questions & Answers


Google (summit)(CL66FDOS)(manual) without parens.

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FROM THE DEAD REFRIGERATOR STORE CALLED JUNK YARD

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The right setting depends on how many door openings the fridge sees in a day and how packed with food it is. If the fridge is warm, try increasing the thermostat slightly to a higher number. Come back 24 hrs later to see if it has gotten better, You may need to do this a few times. If you don't get any results, then it's possible the thermostat is faulty or the fridge has a leak in the cooling system.

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Hi, One of the most common problems with frost-free refrigerators (and often with upright frost-free freezers) is drain freeze up. This is usually caused by the defrost drain clogging, then freezing. On older units, it can also happen when the insulation (usually open-cell Styrofoam) around the drain gets 'water-logged', as it often does over the years, causing ice to build up inside the drain.
The first symptom, at least in top-freezers, is usually water under the crisper drawers, on the floor of the refrigerator section.
In side-by-sides and upright freezers it'll appear as a nifty slab of ice on the freezer floor, eventually running water out onto the kitchen floor.

These are quick and easy to make. Just cut a piece of #12 copper wire (strip from regular 12-2WG 'Romex' household wire) about 6 inches long and bend it around a 1/4 inch round rod. A screwdriver shaft works well for this, but any 1/4 inch dia. piece of metal will do.
Now when your refrig or freezer drain clogs and you find the trough under the evaporator full of ice, here's what you do.
Clear the
ice, open the drain (use hot water in your one gallon pressure sprayer and a wet-vac, and hang this little piece of copper on the defrost heater, so it extends down the drain. On most units, this is a black rod under the evaporator coil. Some use a radiant heater inside a glass tube, with which you can use this method, but you must carefully bend the hook on your copper wire to the diameter of the glass, being sure it puts no pressure on the glass.
This heater is responsible for melting all that frost that we don't have to deal with since the advent of Frost-free units, and it glows a dull red during the defrost cycle, so there's plenty of excess heat for our purpose.
Anyway, since copper's such a good conductor of heat, some of the defrost heater's energy will transfer down the copper wire, into the drain, and keep it open. What I like to call 'stupidly simple', this uses no extra electricity and works extremely well!
One precaution: hang this piece of copper *loosely* over the defrost heater. Don't squeeze or crimp it on, or you risk causing a "hot spot", damaging the heater.
Note: I get a lot of questions as to whether this wire will melt the rubber drain grommet or plastic drain tubing. I've installed literally hundreds of these wires (wish I'd kept count!) and have never seen any damage caused to those areas.
Keep in mind that when the unit switches into defrost, the inside of the freezer is at or below zero. Most defrost cycles last 20 minutes max, with the heater shutting down before the cycle
ends, so the warmth that travels down this little copper wire isn't nearly intense enough to melt anything but ice.

Hope this makes sense! Good luck
David

Summit... | 353 views | 0 helpful votes


Would not be capacitor fault if compressor starts and runs. Look for piping rattle or if compressor mounts are faulty {damaged rubber mountings}

Refrigerators | 162 views | 1 helpful votes


sounds like your compressor has gone, if the compressor isn't running then the unit won't freeze or get cold. if you mean the condenser fan? then replace it!

Refrigerators | 137 views | 2 helpful votes


id use silicone spray it wont smell so long...

Refrigerators | 350 views | 1 helpful votes


Some ice makers will take up to hours to produce the first time, but without the refrigerator model number and more of the story, giving you the correct information is difficult.

Refrigerators | 173 views | 1 helpful votes


Check the fan, make sure it is spinning. Might also check for dust buildup in same area.

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Google (adventureridge)(651)(manual) without parens OR contact Adventureridge directly. Check spelling.

Refrigerators | 139 views | 1 helpful votes


...did you plug it in? Does the outlet actually work (plug something else into it to check)? Did you adjust the temperature to cold?

Refrigerators | 219 views | 1 helpful votes


Most Kenmores have a 24 hour defrost timer that engages the defrost cycle every 24 hours.
That noise you hear is the defrost system engaging.
Since the defrost timer makes one full rotation every 24 hours the thing can repeatedly "clunk" at 2 AM night after night waking you up.
The "trick" is to turn it down to the coldest setting while placing a couple of partially filled jugs of water in the freezer section to freeze into solid ice, then turn it off for however long it takes to back-up the timer. I suggest try for a time when nobody is home like at lunch time.
The ice jugs keep your food cold while it is off for a few hours. For example if it clunks at 10 PM while everybody is in bed, turn it off (un plug it) for 12 hours then back on - it will then clunk at 10 AM.
Placing a flame-retardant door matt on top of the freezer section helps reduce the noise. Use care when dealing with electricity.

Refrigerators | 57 views | 1 helpful votes


Generally the thermostat if the compressor not running...Does it make a pinging noise because that`s the compressor overload protector

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Sounds like low Freon. Suggest refer to owner's for explanation of Error Code 4. Also suggest obtain a Chef's thermometer to monitor your temps.

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You don't really need to as everything is insulated. Is this at a cottage or something? Better to install a frost-stat heater.

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