Top 20 Hotpoint RFA60 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 4 Questions & Answers


Sounds like your defrost cycle has failed. Since the unit is running fine for a while before warming up, this can rule out your circulating fan also when the ice begins to build up, the sound you most likely hear is the fan blades hitting the ice on the coil. Your defrost cycle is operated by a defrost timer or your motherboard depending on the age of your refrigerator. When your refrigerator goes into defrost, it turns on an electric heater that melts the ice from your coil in the freezer. When your defrost time or electric heater fails, it allows ice to build up on the coil in your freezer which blocks airflow which causes your cooling compartments to not maintain temperature. Hope this gives you an idea what to look for and a guide on where to start looking

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Fridge side will not cool if fan in freezer doesn't work. Also freezer temps will be marginal.

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It was made in 2010. You will have to contact the GE support center regarding dimensions. Below is a link for that contact plus a link to a manual.
Hotpoint Support

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/HTR16ABSHLCC-HOTPOINT-REFRIGERATOR%20S%20SERIES-manual

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Hello Jeanneary9,

Proper AIR CIRCULATION is critical to the
proper operation of the unit as a whole...
(I prefer my milk ICY cold... but fluid).

First thing to do is inventory your air vents
inside the FREEZER area... to ASSURE that
NONE are blocked (from open)...

Then inspect the air vent INTO the refrigerator
area that NONE of those are blocked (closed)

Most modern refrigerators give preference
to the milk storage shelf...

ELSE...
(first try a full 3 day DEFROST... (unloaded
with doors wide open... Then set to original settings
(three more days)))...

Only then you are looking at (sorting) a
DEFECTIVE thermostat...!!

I use (rather inexpensive) TAYLOR ($6 - USA)
refrigerator thermometers to regulate temperatures...
and STAY AWAY from "adjusting" as much as
Possible... as it can take UP TO 3 days (72 hours)
for the refrigerator to stabilize...

Hope this helps

Carnac the Magnificent

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The sites enclosed will have parts diagrams and locations for your.

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You would be best off also changing The terminating thermostat and the heater. That will pretty much guarantee a fix.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

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It sounds like the water has frozen at some point between the freezer and fresh food wall where the water line runs through insulation. www.repairclinic.com may have a schematic or diagram showing the routing of the water line.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

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Model no. returns no information.
Sounds like you have a defrost problem. Once symptoms show up, the failure probably occurred 1-2 weeks prior, resulting in frost accumulating in the freezer. Turning it off will allow it to manually defrost and will work ok for another 2-3 weeks.
There are 3 components that make up the defrost system.
1. Defrost timer
2.Defrost terminating thermostat
3.Defrost heater
You will have to replace all 3 components unless you can determine what's at fault
https://www.repairclinic.com/ for more help

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

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After removing back plate you will see a drain line that comes down and has a rubber duckbill device on the end of it. This is to prevent warm air from entering the freezer but also allow water fro the auto defrosting cycle to drain out. This duckbill device gets sticky with time and will seal shut preventing the defrosted ice water from draining into the pan to evaporate away. You can take this duckbill off and clean it but I have always just replaced them. It may look different on yours.
https://youtu.be/_MyOFwRWRTY

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Defrost timer or defrost heating element is open. Check here for parts. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

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Complaints should be made known to consummer affairs by every customer involved.

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A google search will answer this question for you.

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Check the air distribution door from proper operation

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Usually at the bottom after you remove the kick bracket in front.

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First run a fault code test at the diagnostic link under the dash on drivers side and see if any fault codes are in memory, if nothing shows then test the fuel pressure, the test port is in the fuel supply pipe that sits over the fuel injectors on the top of the engine, looks like a large tire valve. You will need a special tool, borrow one from a local auto parts store like Autozone.

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