Top 20 Hunter Fan Company 5/1/1 Programmable Thermostat Questions & Answers


Hummm... how far is your Thermostat from your heater? I am reading your extensive manual but there is no mention of that distance? There was a early mention of batteries? Are yours fresh?

Is this a 'new' problem? Has it worked properly before?

Then there is this from the manual:

The installer can set SYSTEM functions once the thermostat is installed. The
default settings are shown in bold in the following list. Options are listed inside the
parentheses. Example: the default SYSTEM TYPE is CONVENTIONAL with (HEAT PUMP) as a second option. See pages 28-29 to change these settings.

Have you tried resetting your Thermostat?? Sometimes these basic 'onboard' computers get confused... especially true with lots of 'options'...

It's a little hassle to get a DIGITAL copy of your manual (I am not a Robot ~ etc) ~ but here it is:

Download manual

TROUBLESHOOTING begins at Page 68

Anthony

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This should help you. You need to know if your thermostat is powered by the unit or independently and which way your reversing valve switches (I,m not sure on a Bryant, but probably Your old O wire goes to your new O terminal. They should pretty much match up, the new stat just has more options. Thermostat wiring

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try: (888) 880-FANS their office will probably send it to you.

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Here's the online Manual Search page at Hunter Fans & Thermostats:
http://www.hunterfan.com/Support/Technical-Support/Parts-Manuals

See Page 8 of Manual Override programming for this thermostat:
http://www.hunterfan.com/SupportDocuments/OwnersManuals/44008-01Thermostat44668-44660WebR02102010.pdf

GL

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Go to the website of the thermostat. You can download the owners and installation manuals there.

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The most likely problem is the wall on which the thermostat is mounted. The thermostat is designed to read the temperature of the space in the room, but if the wall is exceptionally warm or cold it can really throw off the actual reading.
Options might be to stuff insulation into the wall behind the thermostat, or relocate it to a wall that is more consistent in temperature with the actual temperature in the room.

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You can get the manual at: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/257219/Hunter-44665.html

Normally these thermostats read remote temperatures but do not use them for control. The external remote sensor is normally put outside in our area yeilding an inside out side thermometer.

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My suggestion is to replace it.

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Remove batteries.
Insert a paperclip or similar object into the "reset" hole and hold in for 10+ seconds.
Insert new batteries.
This should reset the thermostat to factory settings and clear all programs, and it should work normally afterwards.

If the error occurs again within a month, then call Hunter tech support at 888-830-1326 between 7am - 7pm US Central timezone.

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I am not sure but it sounds like that is what it is should do.

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Make sure that your room temperature is lower than your desired final heating temperature (or higher than your cooling temperature). Next check your wires to the thermostat. Some thermostats have screw terminals; others you push the wire into place after holding open a "lever".
A few months ago, we found that a few of the conductor wires had broken behind the thermostat. On stripping the insulation from the unbroken section of those wires and reconnecting them to the thermostat, it worked fine. There are 4-5 wires behind the thermostat, the wires that control the relays to turn on and off the heating and cooling are different from the power wires.

Next check your system. Change the filter and make sure that the door over the filter is closed. If it isn't seated, you may get a fail-safe over-riding the controls. Some newer systems will have LEDs that give trouble codes. Refer to your manual if you see any lights/code numbers. You also should check the wiring at the furnace/heat pump/AC unit. Another possibility is that the control board for the unit is damaged. (This also happened to us - a close lightning strike caused a surge that destroyed a portion of the circuit board. Your unit should have a trouble-shooting section that tells how to test the system by bypassing certain jumpers.) If the problem is at the board, call a repair person. They'll probably have the correct part on hand if you give them the make/model when you schedule the service call.
Please add a comment with information about your heating and cooling system hardware and any trouble-shooting lights, if present, for additional assistance.

Cindy Wells
I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

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10-17-12
Change battery on thermostat.
Usually located back of thermostat.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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Reprogram it and then hold down the button that says hold until it goes back to the screen that should fix it the blinking 4 is just saying you are in the 4th programming stage of the day. Mine was blinking on 3 yesterday and when I reprogrammed it it stopped blinking

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I have this same issue but figured out it is just the energy savings system regulating the change in temperature it doesn't really mean anything It is only for your system but if you place your thermostat on a temperature hold it won't go through the auto recovery system

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Just fixed mine;

Note the sensor channel on face of remote
(ref: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/257219/Hunter-44665.html)
Mine was set on Ch15, well the thermostat only monitors 14 channels had to flick down dip switch #1 to set Ch7.

Then on the base unit thermostat, see page 5 of a similar unit for 44668/44665 manual (below) then wait about 10 minutes for things to sync up, and press remote button to check sensor temp.

Note the button order for Remote Sensor Programming at base thermostat:
http://www.hunterfan.com/SupportDocuments/OwnersManuals/44008-01Thermostat44668-44660WebR02102010.pdf

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First make sure that your heating system is on (gas turned on if applicable). Check the unit for any error messages. My furnace has a blinking LED for trouble-shooting. However, the typical issues for it are: blocked air inlet and burner ignite the gas (alternatively, pilot light unlit). Once, the problem has been with the circuit board but that failed in the summer. Make sure the circuit breaker is on and that the cover of the furnace is fully seated. (This can be an issue after changing the filter.)

Next change the batteries if they are low. (This model needs new batteries every 30 days or so since it doesn't use AC power.) Make sure that the thermostat is set for heat. If this is a replacement thermostat, double-check that the wires were connected to the correct spots. (You should have labeled these when the old thermostat was removed.) Tighten all of the terminal screws. Use a unbent paper clip to press the reset button on the thermostat (just below and to the right of the up/down arrows). If the furnace works and the above do not solve the problem, replace the thermostat.

The manual for the 44100b is available here: http://www.hunterfan.com/uploadedFiles/Support/Owner_Manuals/44100.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

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if you have an electrical meter this is how to test for bad t-stat heating relay. (this is for the most typical furnace setup in a typical home)
first you will need to find and do several things at the furnace.
find the MAIN furnace switch and turn off. switch should be mounted outside of furnace on either side of furnace cabinet. remove both furnace doors. find the electrical circuit board, it will be the square thing that almost all wires go to or come from. find the 24v (t-stat) connection screws on the circuit board. they should a row of small phillips screws, and there should be a minimum of 5 screws in a row. the screws will be labeled as follows (not in certain order) R W Y G C . The screws you will be concerned with are R, W, and C. If there is not a C screw you will substitute the C screw for a unpainted part of the furnace cabinet in your testing. The last thing to find is the door switch which should be mounted behind the lower door. It is mounted so when the door is attached the switch is depressed. Use some tape or something to depress the switch without the door on. you will not have enough hand to do it manually during testing. get your electrical meter and your ready to test. always remember that if the Main furnace switch is turned on any of the electrical connections, motors, etc. inside the furnace could be energized at any time.

step 1 : with main furnace switch on, both furnace doors removed, and door switch depressed go to your thermostat and turn a minimum of 5 degrees higher than ambient. if t-stat isnt on then something you did is wrong. check switches.

2: with newer t-stats there can be a delay. so wait 5 minutes then go to furnace.

3: put electrical meter in AC and in correct range if you have a cheapo meter. you will be reading 24v so correct range is the closest to 24v but must be above 24v. take your leads and put one on circuit board screw labeled R, other lead on C. you should read 24v or similar. minimum voltage should be about 22v. anything less than 20v there is a problem far before your thermostat. if you read 24v move on.

4: take your leads and put them on the W screw (heat) and C screw (common24v). You also should read 24v. If you get a reading less than 20v or no reading at all then you either have a bad thermostat or bad thermostat wire.

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Conventional heating, air conditioning and heat pump thermostat wiring labels, wire color codes and the corresponding function description: Terminal
Designation
Wire
Color
Function
Description
Rh Red 24 Volt Hot for Heating Rc Red 24 Volt Hot for Cooling Y1 Yellow First Stage Cooling Y2 Blue Second Stage Cooling G Green
Grey * Energizes Indoor Fan W1 White Energizes First Stage Heat W2 Black Energizes Second Stage Heat O Orange Heat Pump
Reversing Valve
Energized In Cooling B Brown Heat Pump
Reversing Valve
Energized In Heating C Brown** 24 Volt Neutral
(Common) leg

Hope this helps
Tom Miller
Broadcast Eng

Hunter Fan... | 157 views | 0 helpful votes

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