20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JBR2088HES Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers


Hi: You press the switch and it makes a faint humming noise. That tells me the switch on the front panel is ok. The switch for the ice and water is actually on the bottom of the ref. The internal system of the ref is not under city water pressure. Ice is made so that's ok. There is a solenoid where the water attaches to the fridge down below which can fail. Just for giggles try tapping the switch with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. To loosen any scale that might have built up. As I'm unemployed also I'm giving you that trick. Otherwise I would just say replace it. I hope this helps, Jeff

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Apr 24, 2016


A compressor can naturally get hot the tech leaving parts on the floor is wrong the real way to tell if the compressor is bad is to unplug the fridge find the thermostat and unplug the two wires that plug into it then make a small jumper wire with two male spades and a two inch peice of wire and plug it in to both of the wires that you unhooked from the thermostat then plug in the fridge and wait 20 min if the fridge gets to normal cold which is 37 degrees or less it's not the compressor it's the thermostat but if it don't get any colder than before it may be the compressor but a new fridge is less that 500 dollars

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Mar 12, 2014


Very simply it is the Jazz circuit board which is also the board with the digital lighting the control board. Any questions hit me up.Ed

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Feb 20, 2014


If it's the freezer evaporator coils freezing up that can be normal. Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM). Unless it's low on freon they should not open the sealed system.
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.


DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.



you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It's part 40 on this DIAGRAM and parts list.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Mar 29, 2011


Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will give you some things to try...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3876071-ice_maker_problems_ice_maker

heatman101

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Apr 09, 2010


Do you have a lot of frost on the back wall of the freezer section. If you do you have a defrost problem. If you have no response from your controls the control board is part number W10207861 about 165.00. You want to be sure before spending for a board it may not need. Hope this helps.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jan 31, 2010


ice maker is a stand alone. you take ice out the lever drops (shinny metal rod) and it starts the cycle if it's cold enuff. if ice settles lever drops makes more ice. lightly lifting up the lever till it clicks and stays up turns it off completey

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Dec 09, 2009


It could be the freezer fan.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Oct 22, 2009


Check for door gasket,for leaks.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jun 29, 2009


is there ice in the icemaker that the arms are not dislodging?

Please use the "Continue With this expert" option so we are connected in the future.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jun 12, 2009


If the ice build up is only on the back panel of the freezer then you have a defrost problem. Most likely a defrost thermostat or control board/timer. If frost build up is around the walls of the freezer then warm air is getting into the freezer. Most likely cause of this would be gaps in or torn door gasket or door alignment. In some cases the door was left cracked open. If gasket and door alignment is ok remove the frost and see if it comes back.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jun 16, 2008


www.searspartsdirect.com

the replacement control board is about $65

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Feb 03, 2008


Hollow ice cubes are the result of poor water flow to the ice maker. I know you already have experienced flow issur since you mentioned poor water dispenser flow. You apparently have a filter clogged, a house supply valve clogged or lastly a clogged water solonoid valve. The filter is self explanitory. You would replace the filter. The house supply valve is next most likely, to test it you would need to remove the supply line at the rear of the refrigerator after turning supply off the turn supply on to check flow. If the flow is STRONG then next most likely is a clogged solonoid valve. To test it you would, with supply connected and turned on, need to locate the plastic tube that goes to the water dispenser reservoir in the refrigerator section. Disconnect the tube at the solonoid valve and place glass or pitcher at solonoid port while someone presses the diapenser lever. If you have poor flow then but had good supply flow, the valve must be bad.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Nov 23, 2007


This search query should have brought the answer
https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&ei=CM80XareD4P-sAW2mKaoBg&q=Jenn-Air+refrigerator+%22unlock+wheels%22&oq=Jenn-Air+refrigerator+%22unlock+wheels%22&gs_

But it didn't, so Google

make model manual

This leads me to believe your wheels may be an after market accessory

How to Level the Refrigerator - Jenn-Air


https://producthelp.jennair.com > ... > Full-size Refrigerators > Installation Support ? 2:56
Jun 12, 2019 - Uploaded by Whirlpool Appliance Repair Self Help Videos
Why is it important to level your Jenn-Air refrigerator? A refrigerator that is not leveled correctly and/or does ...

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Jul 21, 2019


Hi! Please check the troubleshooting part of the manual to a similar JENN-AIR fridge https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/947419/?page=15

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Feb 28, 2019

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