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When we turn on the dishwasher there is no water
this is all i could find out.
A dishwasher that will not fill with water can be frustrating and repairing it through a serviceman can be expensive. Even for someone who may not consider themselves handy, repairing a dishwasher is not a difficult process. Below we've provided you with a list of the most common parts that fix a dishwasher will not fill with water. Use this information to help troubleshoot which part is broken
The water inlet valve is used to fill the dishwasher with the proper amount of hot water and is controlled by the timer or electronic control. The valve will be located behind the lower access panel and will have two wires attached to it, an outlet hose to the tub and a hot water inlet from the household supply. If your dishwasher does not fill then you should first check the inlet supply to verify that you have enough water pressure and that you have power going to the valve during the fill portion of the cycle. If these conditions are met then the valve is defective and should be replaced. If you do not have power to the valve then you should look at the float switch, the timer or electronic control or the door switches as a possible problem. All of the electrical checks can be made with a multi-meter.
A malfunctioning float could cause the dishwasher to not fill with water. The float is located at the bottom of the dishwasher tub and acts as a safety device that prevents the dishwasher from over filling with water. The float rises with the water level in the dishwasher and when the proper level is reached, the float will trigger the float switch to turn off the water inlet valve. Check that there is no debris or foreign objects that might restrict the vertical movement of the float and that it engages the float switch located beneath the tub.
The float switch sits below the float, beneath the dishwasher tub. When the float switch is triggered by the float, power to the water inlet valve is interrupted and it stops the flow of water into the dishwasher. Verify that the mechanical action of the float to the switch is operating properly and that the wire connections are secure. To check that the float switch is working properly, remove the wires and test for continuity with a multi-meter.
The door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open. If the door switch or switches are malfunctioning the dishwasher will not fill with water. This door switch mechanism is typically located behind the door panel at the top of the door. To verify the operation of the switches you will need to separate the inner door from the outer door and then remove the wires from the switches and check for continuity with a multi-meter.
We've identified the most common parts that can cause the dishwasher to not fill with water, but there are other parts that could be at fault. If you are unable to fix your dishwasher with the information above,
if none of the above work you might have to call someone out to have a look at it.
on Nov 29, 2017
Fixing a inop control panel on a dishwasher. (with update)
Random lights come on but won't respond to any button commands. Seems frozen in time.
TURN OFF POWER
My latest update at the end
You will need a screwdriver bit like a torx bit to remove the control panel. There are 6 screws. One on each corner and 2 around the latch hold area. This will allow the control panel to flop over. I went ahead and removed the entire door panel also (just below the control panel) not knowing they were separate units. This will also give you more room to mess with the wiring. But you won't need to do that.
You will see, inside the control panel, a grey box with all the wiring going to it. My problem was the green flat ribbon cable sliding into the left side of that gray box. To get to it, there are 2 white clips (same side as the cable entry) which are just -molded keepers -easily forced out of place with a small flat screwdriver. Don't break them, but pressure them to the outside direction until they release the box. The other end of the box just tucks/slides under a holder which is part of the casing and not removable.
YOU DON'T NEED TO DO THIS BUT I went ahead and removed all the wiring. The 3 big plugs just pull out, I can't remember if they had keepers or not so look around before pulling something loose. The little ones going into the back side, have keepers also. The box is labeled for these by color. You really won't need to remove these to get the box and cable out.
I have been in there a couple of times since and now I just remove the 6 screws on the top and roll it over to get access. (2 on each side and the 2 at the latch point)
The ribbon cable slides into a black plug "adapter" then that adapter, which now the new end of the cable, plugs (slides) into the box. The plug itself is the problem. Nothing makes the connection of the cable to the plug permanent. It wobbles around and is too loose to make a good permanent connection. First time I just wobbled it around to make a connection cleaning move but it was still loose. That worked for about a month then reoccurred.
New info: Problem reappeared. The problem is definitely that the ribbon cable connector head is loose on the cable. The black plastic end of the cable where it slides into the pins on the box as described earlier. Evidently this looseness is the problem, So I heard of someone taking the end off and soldering directly to the pins on the box...I will try to avoid that. This time I took slip joint pliers (the regular house hold pliers) and gently reclamped the black end piece so there is no looseness in the connecton. You are just gently applying clamping pressure over and over again to get the plastic to bite better on the cable. Turning the pliers to the other side will get all areas on the plastic. I will see if this is good enough. If I don't correct this then it was OK.
If this doesn't do the trick you may have more problems electronic inside. You can further open the box to look for burned spots or other obvious problems. Several keepers along the edge of the box. It will open up showing a printed circuit board. Keepers also hold the PCB in place...so look around before prying ...if it isn't pretty easy to lift or remove anything...a keeper still has it.
You can test the washer now without putting it all back together. If you removed any wiring, just put all the wires back and hold it up and test it. All the buttons should be responsive now.
Sears parts has the best price for replacement. I found the entire control panel (without the box) for $115. The box was $112.
Don't panic...you can do this.
Latest update: (May 13,2015) After about 3 months of intermittent operation I got crazy and opened her up again and tried to do some soldering on it. Those ribbon lines are so thin a soldering iron will destroy the line before the solder melts. No luck. Broke down and ordered a new panel for $93 shipped from universalapplianceparts.com. It has an updated part replacement number and I hope is a better build of the cabling. Still cheaper than a new washer.
on Feb 16, 2015 | Maytag Dishwasher
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