20 Most Recent GE Profile 22.2 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Bottom-Mount Freezer - Black Questions & Answers


Look for failed start components on the compressor or a failed overload protector on the compressor. Also check for loose or burned wiring on the compressor terminals. Make sure to disconnect power before removing the compressor terminal cover.

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Jan 17, 2015


Yes most responses are the freezer drain even if it is in the bottom freezer. If the drain is blocked water will build up anywhere inside your refrigerator only because it has no place to go during the defrost. Defective door seals can also can make the problem much worse. See Leaking Refrigerators I am here should you need me, Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Apr 22, 2014


What is the model number of your unit?

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Nov 06, 2012


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Sep 21, 2011


Hi


Check if the fan in the freezer works. Check whether the evaporator coil (in the freezer) is covered with thin snow or not. If it's not then there is a problem with the sealed system. It could be low on Freon or the compressor has low capacity. You can call a certified technician to diagnose the problem considering all the above mentioned facts.
Also if a defrost thermostat goes bad, you need to replace it.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com



GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Jul 28, 2011


The evaporator behind the rear cover in the freezer may be stopped up with ice, blocking the air flow.
Following is a description of your defrost system which seems to be your problem unless the fan is bad.
Part 801 is your main board in this DIAGRAM

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good.

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Mar 23, 2011



Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.


If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator
Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Feb 14, 2011


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold


heatman101

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Dec 27, 2010


In order to test new fan motor you should connect the two wires to the motor and measure the voltage across the two wires and if you get 12V then motor should run if it does not run your motor is faulty. However if the compressor runs and you don't get 12V across the fan motor then you need a new control board.

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Oct 19, 2010


Look at the defrost timer.

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Sep 20, 2010


If you are not hearing the compressor cycle on and off in intervals and there is no air flow present inside the unit, this will confirm that there has been a severe malfunction within the units assembly. You will need to check the following areas for faults:

1. Compressor- Make sure this unit is functioning. if it is not cycling as designed, this will be the culprit. If it is cycling but very hot to the touch when operating, check the condenser coils for debris and clean them if necessary.

2. Compressor start relay - This is the main on/off switch that is attached to the side of the compressor. This relay, when energized by the main control board, starts the compressor. if the relay has failed, it will not start the compressor, thus, rendering the unit inoperable. Pull the relay off and shack it. If it rattles, replace it.

3. Evaporator fan - This is a very important part of the evaporator core. This is the principal air mover of the unit. If this fan fails, the inside freezer and refrigerator will not cool, at all. You will need to remove all the freezer shelves and content to access this unit. It is concealed behind a panel inside the back section of the freezer compartment. Once the concealment panel is removed, you will expose the core and fan. the fan can be tested with a multimeter for proper continuity. You can also jump the terminals with a jumper wire to see if it is still in working order. An external power source will be needed for this test. if the fan fails the test, replace the fan motor.

4. Condenser fan - This is also a very important fan. This fan is mounted near the condenser coils and can fail. You can test it in the same manner as the evaporator fan. replace the condenser fan if it proves to be damaged.

5. Main PCB(Printed Circuit Board)- This is basically your main power controller. This board routes power to all the fans and compressor unit located in the assembly. it also routes power to the lights and ice maker/dispenser, as well. This will be the most expensive repair, in this case. If all the above areas prove to be functional, the main PCB will be the culprit. You can easily locate this board. It is usually mounted on a bracket, near the compressor platform, or behind a concealment panel on the rear of the unit. Once you have gained access, visibly, inspect the board for burn markings at the relay mounts and jumpers. check the entire circuit board for discolorations like brown marks or black burn marks at the plug-in connectors. If this refrigerator is totally dead, this will be the cause.

6. Monitoring thermostats - These are located in each compartment. Replace each thermostat if all the other checkpoints prove to be ok and in good condition

7. Condenser coils- The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

You will find the culprit in one or all of the areas stated above.

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Aug 15, 2010


Hi!!

Did you cleaned the Temp controls?? Some time when we clean the units, accidentally move the controls.

Keep me posted!!

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Aug 12, 2010


Hi.

Possible faults causing the problem are either a frozen damper fan blades, broken damper motor or a defective defrost system.

If there is no air circulation then problem is likely frozen fan blades, less commonly faulty damper motor. The defrost system may still be responsible, as this fault is often confused with air circulation problem (see below).

If the fault is given by frozen fan blades you will get rid of the problem by simply performing a full defrost (leave unit off overnight).

If the problem is the defrost system, a defrost may temporarily fix the problem, but the fridge will stop cooling again as soon as ice build up comes back, usually after days or weeks from defrost.

The function of the defrost system, located at the back of the freezer firewall, is to prevent condenser coils at the back of the fridge from cooling down and icing up. When the defrost system is defective you get poor cooling, particularly in the fridge section.

You can test if the problem is the defrost system by leaving the unit disconnected or off for 24 or 48 hours.

As said, if problem was the defrost system, then the problem will disappear after full defrost, to come back in a couple of weeks.

Other problems that can cause insufficient cooling are compressor problems, refrigerant leaks, and depending on the model, electronic control faults.

Start doing a defrost for 12 or 24 hours. Cross fingers and hope that the problem was fan blades frozen. You can follow the general troubleshooting illustrated here (the article refers to a different fridge, a Whirpool built Kenmore model, things are not too different on your Model):Kenmore side by side...

You can find parts and diagrams for most models using the link below:Where do I find parts and diagrams?

GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Aug 11, 2010


Hello there:
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas: Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
So make sure to check these really good and please let me know how this is going so i can continue to help you if needed
Best regards michael


GE Profile 22.2... | Answered on Aug 01, 2010

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