Top 20 Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers


Hello Gopi Krishna,

Rather than enumerate the MANY MANY possibilities...
as simple as an ice BLOCKAGE ... or a DOOR switch...

Better ideas are also available on the following
PARTS-HOUSE assistance page...

Just keep in mind they would love
to sell lots of parts...

My first suggestion... would be to check your door closures... make sure your switches light and dark as you open & close the door...

Look through your freezer vents for a SOLID frost = trouble.
(not necessarily a bad thing... Fix = easy...
OPEN doors... power off: 3 days)

((watch-out for defrost over-flow))
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-samsung-rs2630sh-xaa-0000.html

Samsung RS2630SH... | 367 views | 0 helpful votes


Sounds to me like your condensor fan is not running probably control board or motor itself

Samsung RS2630SH... | 82 views | 0 helpful votes


check the cold for what you want but the ideal settings would be 5 for the freezer and 37 for the fridge
freezer can be really cold but the fridge if too cold will freeze vegetables and lettuce

Samsung RS2630SH... | 137 views | 0 helpful votes


It sounds like the thyristor or temperature unit is malfunctioning have it checked out and replace it if faulty.

Samsung RS2630SH... | 132 views | 0 helpful votes


2 years is much too short for starting problems with a refridgerator contact your dealer for a condition because of warranty on the repair you eventual will spend on it. Hidden defects are factory falts are there some holes for melting water are clogged inside the fridge somewhere
An ordinary refrigerator is made for a 17-year life span. like brands as Bosch Siemens Kuppersbusch easely have that lifetime but your dealer is the right point to get your service .

Samsung RS2630SH... | 148 views | 0 helpful votes


The cost for a service call is about $100 and then labor you may end up with a bill for over $500.00 USD

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sounds like the recirculating fan inside the unit is about to seize. Find it and lubricate it.

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Can you explain to me better " The rep around the condenser is leaking" Did you change your compressor and substitute 134a refrigerant with R-600a.I have not seen the R-600a yet used on the refrigerators we service for our customers.(Texas) I have heard of it being used in Europe.

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you need a repairman to check the coolant it might need recharged .freezer should be below 0 like -15

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not to sure maybe open fan motor.So fan motor faulty.

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It probley is just needing a new light try it I think it will work

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Check fuse in the plug use any other working one in the house to test it .
Hope that will help

Samsung RS2630SH... | 165 views | 0 helpful votes


The auger motor faulty please get that checked asap.

Samsung RS2630SH... | 68 views | 0 helpful votes


The beeping is a warning that you call a service tech out to prevent loss of food and your refrigerator

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FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"



Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

Samsung RS2630SH... | 246 views | 0 helpful votes


Get in touch with Samsung about this product at: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/RS2630SH
Samsung has probably encountered this problem before and can guide you in solving it.

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