Question about JVC HR-XVC27U DVD Player/VCR

1 Answer

Lightning damage I found a blown fuse, 3 bad transistors and a burned resistor in the power supply section on the main board. I replaced these transistors (with NTE transistors). I couldn't find the exact resistor value I needed (.27 ohms), so I used a .33 ohm resistor. When I plugged the unit in, the display was flashing "Auto", but the clock never did get set. When I started to do the manual clock set, the display died. I found that the fuse was blown and one of the transistors that I had just replaced was defective . Was using the NTE transistors a mistake? Did the wrong value resistor cause this? Or is this unit worth trying to fix?

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  • LEThorne Sep 27, 2008

    This was the answer I was hoping for, but wanted an expert to confirm it. I'll try replacing some parts again with the exact value and see what happens.

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  • JVC Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Replace the parts with the original ones, a .5 ohm difference on a resistor on the video circuits will cause the unit not to work correctly.

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 27, 2008

    Regarding the NTE transistor, if it has same Volt/Amps value, it should work the same. Get a .27 ohm resistor and replace the .33 Ohms.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 27, 2008

    Regarding the unit value, well, if you have to pay $100 or so at a repair shop it is notworth fixing.
    If you can fix electronics and you can get away wasting some of your time and repacing a couple of components, sure it is worth!
    Fixing a power supply circuit is not too difficult. Replace the resistor with original one, ensure that replaced parts have same values as original ones. Test the capacitors ar the end of the power supply circuits.
    If the problem stays confined to the power circuit it should not be too hard to fix.

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1 Answer

TV won't turn on. Is there a fuse that needs replacing?


Good day!

When the TV is not turning ON it doesn't mean that there's a busted fuse inside although it have a possibility.There are a lot of causes to be considered.Like shorted transistors,leak capacitors open resistors and shorted diode.

Follow this D.I.Y procedures to find the exact problem of your TV.
  1. Remove the back cover of your TV.
  2. After that,find the power supply board.
  3. If you already found the power supply,plug-in your TV and power it ON.Check the input voltage of it,using multimeter (AC range).If the power supply have no input voltage the problem could be the power cord.Replace it.
  4. If the power supply have the input voltage,try to test the output voltage if have 5vdc for the system and logic supply,12vdc for the sounds and 24vdc for the back-light inverter.Use your multimeter tester (DC range) to test that.
  5. If the power supply have a voltage outputs such as 5vdc,12vdc and 24vdc and the problem is still there.The problem could be the main board.Replace it with the same type and model # because the main board is no very difficult to fix and its very sensitive.
  6. If the power supply have no output voltage or the voltage is too low,just ignore the step # 5 because the problem is not on the main board,its on the power supply board.
Check the following to fix the power supply board:
  • Fuse: Check the fuse if it is busted or blown.
  • Power transistor (regulator): Check the regulator if it is shorted or leak.
  • Resistor: Check the resistors specially the one that have a low resistance that near the power regulator.
  • Capacitor: Also check the capacitors if it is leak or bulging top.
NOTE: If you found any defective parts or components that mention above replace it with the same value,type and ratings.


Thank you and good luck.Please don't forget to vote and rate my answer.

May 08, 2011 | Televison & Video

Tip

Projection TV troubleshooting techniques.


When you turn your television on and get nothing almost anything could be wrong with it. The two most likely places to look are the high voltage section and the low voltage power supply. In order I will explain what to check to try to resolve the problem.

First, is the standby light blinking in some sort of pattern? If so, count the number of times it blinks between long pauses. If it is blinking in a patten, this is an error code, and can be helpful in diagnosing the problem. Depending on the manufacturer the blinking pattern will mean different things. Error code lists are available by googling "(manufacturer) tv error codes". Proceed from here based on the information provided by the error code list.

First for safety unplug the unit. If your set has no blinking lights proceed by checking the main fuse in the power supply for continuity and replace if open. Then proceed to looking at the mainboard for burned resistors or bulging electrolytic capacitors. Electrolytics look like little cans, with shiny ends and are generally black, grey or blue. They have a positive and negative lead so be careful when replacing to get the polarity correct. If they are bulging replace them. Also replace any bad resistors found. At this point it would be a good idea to inspect all solder joints on all boards, but especially the Low Voltage and High Voltage sections, and resolder anything which looks suspicious.

Finding no charred resistors or bulging caps, and after resoldering all connections, your unit still does not work, check the horizontal output transistor for failure. Using a DMM on diode check, check the transistor out of circuit for shorts/opens between any two leads. A good unit should have somewhere between 500 and 1000 ohms one way and infinity when the leads are reversed. Only two lead configurations will show conductivity. One set of leads should show infinite resistance both ways. If the transistor checks bad, replace it and the flyback. Check all resistors and diodes in the HV circuit and replace any suspicious units.

If the horizontal output transistor checks OK, check all semis in the LV power supply. Replace any bad units found and check all associated resistors and replace as necessary.

If both the HV and LV sections check OK, remove the circuit board from the CRT and try the unit. If it runs your CRT is bad and needs replaced. If it does not run your problem is elsewhere.

Working one section at a time, remove and isolate any remaining sections while attempting to turn unit on. If unit works with a particular section disconnected, your problem is in that section and you will need to do normal troubleshooting procedure, listed above, on the section in question.

If after all the above procedures are tried, and your unit still isn't working, you may have to replace an entire board. These days most boards are relatively inexpensive. The most likely board would be the LV power supply which usually contains the HV power supply also.

Any parts or boards needed can be ordered at http://www.encompass.com or http://www.shopjimmy.com .

Good luck with your troubleshooting and be careful while inside the set especially near the High Voltage second anode where it connects to the CRT.

Thanks for using FixYa and the great rating.

hardrocko

on Oct 13, 2010 | Televison & Video

Tip

Basic Standard TV Troubleshooting Techniques.


When you turn your television on and get nothing but a clicking sound you could have almost anything wrong with it.

The two most likely places to look are the high voltage section and the low voltage power supply. In order I will explain what to check to try to resolve the problem.

First, is the standby light blinking in some sort of pattern? If so, count the number of times it blinks between long pauses. If it is blinking in a patten, this is an error code, and can be helpful in diagnosing the problem.

Depending on the manufacturer the blinking pattern will mean different things. Error code lists are available by googling "(manufacturer) tv error codes". Proceed from here based on the information provided by the error code list.

If your set has no blinking lights proceed by unplugging and looking at the mainboard for burned resistors or bulging electrolytic capacitors.

Electrolytics look like little cans, with shiny ends and are generally black, grey or blue. They have a positive and negative lead so be careful when replacing to get the polarity correct.

If they are bulging replace them. Also replace any bad resistors found. Resistors must be replaced with similar units and cannot be derated.

Resolder any bad connections on the low voltage power supply and certainly the high voltage power supply. That would be most or all of them.

Finding no charred resistors or bulging caps, and after resoldering all connections, your unit still does not work, check the horizontal output transistor for failure.

Using a DMM on diode check, check the transistor out of circuit for shorts/opens between any two leads. A good unit should have somewhere between 500 and 1000 ohms one way and infinity when the leads are reversed. Only two lead configurations will show conductivity. One set of leads should show infinite resistance both ways. If the transistor checks bad, replace it and the flyback. If you are not sure about the results replace it. Check all resistors and diodes in the HV circuit and replace any suspicious units.

If the horizontal output transistor checks OK, check all semis in the LV power supply. Replace any bad units found and check all associated resistors and replace as necessary.

If both the HV and LV sections check OK, remove the circuit board from the CRT and try the unit. If it runs your CRT is bad and needs replaced. If it does not run your problem is elsewhere.

Working one section at a time, remove and isolate any remaining sections while attempting to turn unit on. If unit works with a particular section disconnected, your problem is in that section and you will need to do normal troubleshooting procedure, listed above, on the section in question.

If after all the above procedures are tried, and your unit still isn't working, you may have to replace an entire board. These days most boards are relatively inexpensive. The most likely board would be the LV power supply which usually contains the HV power supply also.

Any parts or boards needed can be ordered at http://www.encompass.com or http://www.shopjimmy.com .

Good luck with your troubleshooting and be careful while inside the set especially near the High Voltage second anode where it connects to the CRT.

Thanks for using FixYa and the great rating. Please consider a testimonial.

hardrocko

on Mar 27, 2010 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

I have a panasonic th-42px80u, i turned it on and there was a pop and a flash from the back of the tv. It will not power up and have no red light. ive taken apart and inspected power supply board for burn...


Look for a fried (possibly exploded) transistor or diode on the power supply board. In particular, look at the transistor mounted on a heat sink (metal radiator block) between the fuse and the largest transformer on the board. It may also have a damaged regulator chip driving it. Modern TV sets operated by remote controls generally have the power supply split into two sections - standby and main. Your problem is most likely in the main section.

A voltage sniffer won't tell you much - most sets have power right up to the fuse on the power supply board. If the fuse is blown, don't bother replacing it until you find out what blew it - you'll just waste another fuse. I generally start by doing ohmmeter checks (power disconnected!) on the diodes and transistors - anything reading less than 1 Ohm is probably fried or is being shorted through a transformer winding by another fried component. Other readings must be interpreted according to the circuit design.

Nov 27, 2010 | Panasonic Viera TH-42PX80U Plasma TV

1 Answer

Pmp3000 problem power supply.ic circuit problem.number series ic circiut..


I have a PMP5000 that I had to resurect. I had to trace out the power supply to repair it.

I can give you hint: First, a small supply runs directely from the line and generates some of the small voltages. While this starts, the main power caps are charged through limiting resistors. The main switcher is brought online and if the power amps acheive balance, then a relay connects the speakers and shorts the limiting resistors.

This is what is in the 5000 and I suspect the 3000 is similar.

In my 5000, there was arcing at one side of the power amps. The board was burned and three power fets fried. Cancer of burned board had to be carved out and traces replaced by hardwiring.
In addition, the limiting resistors were blown open, both main switching transistors were blown and 4 small driver transistors (surface mounted) and several diodes AND a switching regulator chip (surface mounted).all fried/

Hint: When restarting the unit, put a 150 watt light in series with one of side of the power input to limit the current in case you did not get all the dead bodies out.

This is a class "D" amp which drives PCM waves into a filter which is then the audio output. It is much more efficient thaan a linear amp.

Dec 24, 2009 | Behringer Pmp3000 16 Channel Audio Mixer

7 Answers

Wine cooler Doesn't work


I had the same issue on a Whynter WC28S SNO 28 Bottle Wine Cooler, it even seems like most of the thermoelectric wine coolers, fridges, and such have the same boards by hanny. For cross refference parts I used NTE because Fry's Electronics had them.
Switching transistors - NTE51
1N 4007 - NTE125
Silicon Dual Power Rectifier - NTE6090

Also I have a venotemp wine cooler that has pretty much the same board, with the same plugs for fans, light, control panal, and cooler fan for $45 shipped at their site under replacement parts. Hope this helps people looking for info on this. Also research Switching Power Supply issues for information.

Oct 26, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Dead Set after power surge


Check the power supply transformer primary driver transistor and the associated components (some diodes and capacitors, resistors, an optocoupler maybe) and the rectifier diodes (or a bridge) and capacitors at the transformer secondary, what you are looking for is a short circuit, however, the short may as well be in another section of the circuit board (a shorted component may sometimes have signs of damage caused by heat, but this is not a rule).

Hope you can find out what it is...

regards

Triarcuate

Oct 01, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Blown fuse and replaced it and burned the amp


BIG problem! You should NOT have replaced the fuse as additional damage has been done. I repaired a PMP5000 and I can tell you likely what you will find: The smoke and smell came from two power resistors that are part of the soft start circuit that now are toast. You will likely find several components in the main portion of the power supply that are toast. These will include transistors, resistors, diodes, and probably the small 8 pin switching regulator chip. There is a small power supply that comes on first which enables a relay that shorts out those soft start resistors AFTER the power amplifier BALANCES and normalizes.
The unit I repaired had severe damage due to arc-over at one power amp section. Three power transistors were destroyed there and board traces and charring had to be handled in that section.
The repaired unit had to be brought up with a light bulb in series with the line power cord to prevent further damage until all bad parts were discovered and repaired. You will need to take the unit to a shop that is expperienced with the product. The repair cost MAY be pretty high.

Mar 08, 2009 | Behringer Pmp3000 16 Channel Audio Mixer

2 Answers

TV will not turn on


does the standby led goes on, or non at all? if not, check power supply section, look for blown fuse or open resistor in the power supply section. check also the power regulator IC...

Sep 28, 2008 | Olevia Televison & Video

2 Answers

Nad amp failure


Check fuses mounted near transformer . If blown check output transistor. Also check transistor transistors on small heat sink . they will cause fuse to blow.

Mar 10, 2008 | NAD C350 2-Channel Amplifier

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