Question about Haier BC112G Wine Cooler

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Haier BC112G wine cooler reading do I get at the 'guts' of the unit to change out the thermostat and thermistor sensor? The manual doesn't show anything behind the 'hood'

How do I get at the 'guts' of the unit to change out the thermostat and thermistor sensor? The manual doesn't show anything behind the 'hood'!

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Mine did the same thing:

  • Try first replacing the temp sensor: $4.76 from Haier Part#RF-6250-01

Posted on Apr 01, 2012


6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: Haier BC112G Wine Cooler Beeping and overcooling

That thing that's is the circuit board. It is telling you that it wants a new cousin to live in your house. Replace it.

Posted on Dec 21, 2007

  • 639 Answers

SOURCE: compressor for haier bc112g

Dear friend,
ngfam at you service! happy to assist!

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It cost $241 to buy a new one at the site below!

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Happy to assist you,

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

  • 259 Answers

SOURCE: Are red wines stored on the top or bottom of the
is the link to your manual.Typically in a dual temperature zone wine cooler whites are stored in the bottom and reds on top as whites are better a little colder and the cold air will drop to the bottom of the unit.
Hope this helps!

Posted on Jun 14, 2010

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Power surge caused wine cooler to quit cooling

Power surges, spike and brown-outs are a nemesis to small refrigeration units. The capacitor for the compressor likey was affected and possibly the start components in general, especially if the unit was operating when the surge occured.

Posted on Jul 21, 2010

  • 183 Answers

SOURCE: Wine temp on Haier wine

The error is likely caused by a bad temperature sensor. The control board may still be Okay.
Replacing both of them is recommended.

Check this link for parts:

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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My hoover dryer vhc 391 doesn't dry . Ibought it second hand so have no manual, please help


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :

Sep 19, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

What does the code F2 mean in the time window of the Whirlpool Cabrio gas dryer and how do I reset the machine?

Whirlpool Cabrio & Kenmore Oasis Dryer Error Codes
  • PF--Power failure
  • AF--Restricted air flow
  • F01--Primary control failure
  • F02--Keypad/User Interface failure
  • F22--Exhaust thermistor open
  • F23--Exhaust thermistor shorted
  • F24--Inlet thermistor open
  • F25--Inlet thermistor shorted
  • F26--Motor drive system failure
  • F28--Moisture sensor open
  • F29--Moisture sensor shorted
  • F30--Restricted air flow

looks like you have a problem with the touch pad,abutton could be stuck or not responding,you can try unplugging it,get to the computer board and unplug the ribbon from the touch pad,reconnect it and try it,this sometimes resets the touch pad,if it doesn't you'll need to replace the touch pad.

Sep 07, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

How to replace thermostat on Haier BC-112G

First lets find out why you want to change the thermostat.
  • The 112G has a control board & temp sensor
If you are having problems try replacing the sensor first then the control board.
Link to the parts breakdown page:
The sensor is $4.76 & the control board is $26.81.
good luck,

Feb 01, 2012 | Haier BC112G Wine Cooler

1 Answer

The temp is 25 and is stuck on LL

replace the temp sensor first

$4.76 from Haier part# RF-6250-01

still stays at 25 degrees?

replace the control board & you should be done.
$26.81 from Haier part# RF-0668-04

Oct 23, 2011 | Haier BC112G Wine Cooler

1 Answer

Error h4-00 code on AR- 5127. please what can i do to reset it. Thanks. It also says call for service even though the machine is new.

this error occures if:
The setup temperature (about 90°C) is not reached within the specified time (about 17sec) from turning on the power.
When the temperature of main heater lamp thermistor falls below 140°C in the standby mode or printing.
When the temperature of main heater lamp thermistor falls below 50°C in the pre-heat mode.

Main heater lamp thermistor defect
Main heater lamp failure
Main thermostat failure
Control PWB failure

Check the heater lamp blinking with SIM 52.
When the lamp blinks normally:
Check the thermistor and the harness.
Check the MCU PWB thermistor input
If lamp lights and stays lit:
Check for disconnection of the heater lamp
and thermostat.
Check the interlock switch.
Check the power circuit and the lamp
control circuit on MCU PWB.
Clear the display of self-diagnostics with
SIM 14.

To clear, enter sim mode:
1) #/P key (program) ON ? Asterisk (*) key ON ? CLEAR key ON ?
Asterisk (*) key ON ? Ready for input of a main code of simulation
2) Entering a main code with the 14-key ? START key ON
3) Entering a sub code with the 0-key ? START key ON
4) Select an item with the scroll key and the item key.
5) The machine enters the mode corresponding to the selected item.
Press START key to start the simulation operation.
To cancel the current simulation mode or to change the main code
and the sub code, press the CUSTOM SETTINGS key.
* Canceling the simulation mode to return to the normal mode
1) Press CLEAR ALL key

if clear with sim 14-0 doesn't helps, choose sim 52 to check the lamp, or call service!

Sep 13, 2011 | Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

The compressor and fan won't come on but there is power supply working for the lights

Without your MAKE & model number; all I can do is tell you what can cause this symptom.

At the end of the defrost cycle the defrost control is supposed to get a signal from either a 60 deg bi-metal thermostat or thermistor (depending upon make & model) That signal starts the clock either mechanical or electronic that signeals the compressor to start. The fan automatically will run when the compressor runs. If the defrost thermostat or thermistor is not working correctly the unit will start a defrost cycle but never finish so it completly defrosts.

The termperature control will also cause this symptom. If the corntacts in the temp control fail the compressor will not restart.

Just from reading your symtoms I think you have a problem with one of the following:
1. Defrost thermostat or thermistor
2. Defrost control
3. Temp control

Most of the time it is either 2 or 1 above in that order.

If you respond with a make and model number I will use that to determine if there is anything you can do at this time to troubleshoot.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Aug 07, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My air conditioner thermostat is showing a capital A. When I press the mode button it gives me options like 01, 02, Fn, r, D... What do I do? I have read the manual, but it doesn't help me at all

It would help me to know what brand & model number AC unit you have. Different manufacturers and models have codes that don't mean the same thing on each brand.

Please advise ... Thanks

Jul 14, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Inside the dryer there is a vent, I'm assuming where the hot air blows out of the house. Well this vent, when we got the machine, was like "raw metal" I don't know how else to describe...

Your control thermostat is bad. themobilian_2370.jpg themobilian_2371.jpg themobilian_2373.jpg Newer models with electronic **** use resistance to gauge temps. A thermostatic resister called thermistor is mounted where a control klixon is on all dryers. That blower is sucking hot air out of the drum and the warmth is flowing over the thermistor themobilian_2374.jpg Headquarters supply's a steady flow of current to this thermistor. As the temp changes the resistance is altered. This change in resistance is constantly monitored and heat element is activated by input from this dude. If it is off a tad which has been known to be the case, then the dryer won't act right. I suspect you have a bad control which is easy to replace. AND is cheaper than them fancy shocktronics upstairs. At any rate if the vent is clear and the lint filter is clear then overheating is because the control thermostat ain't cuttin it. Replace that puppy and party on. American dryer service manuals and more can be found HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at

May 16, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

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