Question about Whirlpool GB2SHKRLS Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

# Coil is freezing on freezer

I know I need a door gasket on my freezer.My refrigerator will not get cold unless i defrost the coil in the freezer. My heater is working but I have alot of frost in the freezer due to the door gasket. Can the gasket make the coil freeze up and make the refrigerator not get good air flow?

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Yes, the seal will let outside air into the unit causing the coil to ice up. When it ices up the air cannot blow through the fins in the coil, thus no cold air goes to the refrigerator section.

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

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It can be several things and you need to diagnose which one its happening.

No frost refrigerators go through a defrost cycle after certain number of hours (at least once a day) set by the "defrost timer" usually a black box with a fat multiwire connecor in one side with a sort of round stub that will let you turn the timer in the forward direction only, with a racheting clicking sound as it turns, (don't force it the other way or you will break it). the timer can be located in the fridge thermostat compartment or in the back of the fridge in the bottom near the condenser fan (outside).

The timer starts the defrost cycle and turns on a resistance around or under the freezer coil, that will defrost the evaporator coil, making it warm, when the heat reaches the top of the coil, there is a "end of cycle" button thermostat attached to the top part of the coil, that will click open and disconnects the defrost resistance and end the defrost action, the fridge will then just sits there and wait for the timer to end its part of the defrost cycle and turn on the freezer.

WARNING:

The following procedures involves work with parts energized with potentially LETHAL voltages.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WORK with them unless you have knowledge of what you are doing.

ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE APPLIANCE WHEN WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY.
YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH AN OLD FRIDGE.

1.- air recirculation problem
when the compressor is running do you hear the freezer fan running? NO? ok then:
a.- stuck recirculation fan motor
relubricate motor bearings
with regular motor oil
b.- burn recirculation fan motor
replace
c.- burned or rusted connections to recirc fan
clean connectors to shiny metal state
or replace

2.- defrost system problem
a.- bad defrost timer (stuck in "run" position)
try to go through the cycle racheting one click a the time
and check for correct operation.
-. dissasemble clean and lubricate timer.
-. OR replace Timer

check continuity if open replace

c.- bad end of defrost button thermostat
test: check for continuity at room temp
bypass button thermostat
and turn defrost timer
stop on timer's defrost position
you will know when it powers on the defrost
resistor (check with voltmeter or connect a
120 VAC test bulb)

or stopping on each click to look for
defrost power in defrost resistor, when that
happens you will (must) have a
VERY hot defrost resistor.

WARNING: HOT RESISTANCE : Watch for burns

if you have power in the defrost resistor feeding wires but not heat, check continuity of button thermostat. it may be stuck open.

Of course that if your freezer door gasket is leaky your freezer will make a lot of frost but it should clear at least once a day at the defrost cycle.

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this will help in solving the problem....

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Hi,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Good luck......

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You will see a small round hole. Onside the hole is the defrost timer advance knob.
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If you do hear the sizzling sound the defrost timer will need replacing.

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Hi
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Let us know if you have something more to know else accept the suggestion.
Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

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