Question about Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

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How to get to thermal unit on a 90 series Kenmore dryer?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

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Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore 90 series dryer won't heat

The thermal fuse is going to be located on the heating element housing. When you take off the front panel you will see your lint screen housing. You will need to remove that to get to the element housing. Once that's out of the way the thermal fuse should be right on top of the housing. It is small and has two small wires coming off of it. The wires should be different colors. Just don't get it mixed up with the thermostat. Just match it up with the new one that you have. It is held in place with two small screws. Let me know if you have any other questions or still can't find it, also let me know if this was helpful. Good luck and glad to help out.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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TheMobilian

Dan Webster

  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore 90 series dryer's pilot light is out.

If your flame sensor is open then the ignitor will not fire up. Read more
Post your model number to any of these fine forums for
a simple answer that will save you lots of money:
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?referredby=858
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/
http://applianceguru.com/


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

jsrock516

Jeff Rockwell

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore series 90 dryer has no heat but it runs

The life of the dryer can be indefinite if maintained properly. I've worked on Kenmore dryers that were over 20 years old. Components do wear out from normal wear and tear sometimes and require replacement. Most of these components are not expensive and can be replaced by the average do-it-yourselfer. However, not maintaining the dryer exhaust ventilation can shorten the life expectancy of the heating circuits. Most commonly, this problem is caused by a blown thermal cut-out, or failed heating element.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

Sal De

  • 2699 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer-90 Series- Pushed Start button nothing happened

get a meter,unplug the dryer and read out the fuse,pull one of the wires off when you read it out,also when was the last time you cleaned out the dryer?if it's the fuse usually the air isn't moving very well,you need to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,vac out the inside of dryer where the motor is and clean out the vent line and make sure the outside vent is clear,if it's a long run from the back of dryer to the outside i use a leaf blower to blow out the vent line,make sure you have 240 coming in at the back of dryer,you could have a blown fuse,if the thermal fuse is good,check the thermostats on the heater box and read out the heater,good luck,if i can help with anything else let me know

Posted on Mar 26, 2010

GD Strick

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to remove lower front panel on kenmore 90

On my 7 year old Series 90 Dryer, I
- unplug the dryer
- use a flash light to locate the two black metal spring clips (located about 3 inches from each end of the lower panel along its top edge). They can be seen in the crack between the upper and lower panels.
- use a putty knife, or similar tool, to press down each clip while pulling out that edge of the panel.
- The panel slips off the lower clips easily.
- on some models there is a lone yellow wire with a connector on the end. If it is unconnected to anything, don't go nuts thinking that you have disconnected a wire by accident. Its one of those unused wires on some models.
- collect as many coins as possible before you vacuum the inside of the machine. Leaning the machine forward can often slide hidden coins to the front. BE SURE YOU CAN LEAN THE MACHINE WITHOUT HAVING IT FALL ON YOU. Otherwise, plan on collecting the coins from the vacuum cleaner when you finish.
- replace the panel by first threading the panel on to the lower clips, then closing the panel. CLICK, CLICK. FINISHED.

Congrats you have cleaned it, possibly avoided a house fire and added to the mad money collection. Hope this helped.

Posted on Jan 13, 2011

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Where to find fuses. My dryer is not heating up.


Does your dryer have power? If yes, then check (1) the flow of air outside the house from your dryer tube and (2) your circuit breaker panel for each circuit in the house (I've not seen fuses/breakers built into dryers -- though that could change). Then check (3) your heating element, (4) thermostat, (5) high-temp thermal cutoff switch, and (6) for debris in the air flow path to / from from the centrifugal fan.
Here are 3 resources that helped me with my Kenmore Series 90 Dryer:
No Heat? - http://chris-doityourselfrepair.blogspot.com/2011/10/kenmore-90-series-model-110-clothes.html
Looking Inside My Dryer - http://chris-doityourselfrepair.blogspot.com/search/label/Disassembling%20Kenmore%20Dryer%2090%20Series
Exterior Exhaust Duct - http://chris-doityourselfrepair.blogspot.com/2013/08/cleaning-out-and-replacing-exhaust-duct.html

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It could be several other things thermal fuse, thermal cut out, hi limit thermostat, dryer coils, heat sensor,or igniter. All of these parts are inexpensive and easy to test and replace.There is a video at t http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroublevideo.html his will walk you thru the troubleshooting of these components. It may be a different model but the troubleshooting will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available. If you need help disassembling your machine there are videos of this also for most styles.

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I need to get to the thermal fuse in my Kenmore 90 Series electric dryer model # 110.66902690. I took off the bottom front panel and can't find it...I'm really not even sure what it is I'm supposed to be...


ok the heater is on the right side of the unit standing from the front the thermal fuse is located behind the thermastat should be round black objects that have to wires going to them it is recommend that if you have a bad thermal fuse you replace your thermostat wich is the bigger round plastic also might want to check your vent out of the house for a restiction

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I had an identical problem to yours this weekend with my Kenmore dryer. There were 2 problems.

1. Timer was broken. Does not advance to "OFF" position on timed dry, however it still works for auto-dry.

2. Thermal fuse was blown. Upon replacing, dryer heated up normally.

I believe when the timer broke, the dryer had kept running and blew the thermal fuse. On Sears' website, thermal fuse is $5.30, timer is roughly $80.

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Jan 01, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

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You most likely have a bad thermal fuse and or cut off. If so you will also need to replace the thermostat. These are not costly and are easy to replace. These are also the most common parts to fail on a Kenmore.

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It is mounted on the rear of the dryer on the blower housing. f8cdc70.jpg

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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