Question about Miele Refrigerators
Freezer not freezing, bottom section is cooling no problem.
Posted by Anonymous on
Might be the defrost timer failing - that happens. The evaporator coils freeze up then, and very little air can pass the ice-clogged evaporator coils.
It's only been happening since the onset of humid summer weather? Check the defrost catch pan underneath - I'll bet it's dry. Defrost the refrigerator manually (unplug the refrigerator, put everything into coolers wrapped in blankets, etc) for a good long while, then plug it back in again - I'll bet the freezer works like gangbusters again for a while. If so, and if it stops again after a day or two... then I'm VERY confident that the defrost timer board is ready for replacement.
Posted on Jul 29, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi softwaredude with an LG GR-727R refrig. The occasional build up of water on the bottom of the fresh foods sections tells me that the refrig is going through it's defrost cycle, but that the defrost drain is plugged. If you take the back off the refrig. you will see a plastic tube about 1/2 inch diameter with a few ribs on it going from the top of the compressor compartment to the bottom, which is a defrost water holding / evaporating pan. Look to see if that tube is plugged. If not, it is plugged further up, most likely where the defrost water drains off the evaporator (that the coils behind the freezer wall that do all the cooling). Take that back panel off and use a hair dryer to melt all the frost off. The frost is blocking air flow from the freezer section to the fresh foods section, thus poor or no cooling in the FF section. You should be able to spot where the defrost water is suppose to drain. If the water is not draining out, use a turkey baster with hot water to flush out the drain.
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
Look in the back of the freezer, there will probably be a metal panel with a plastic vent on top.
Look through the vents in the metal panel, and you should see the shiny metal fins of the evaporator. If the fins or the vents are plugged with frost, that is your problem. The freezer will stay cold because a small amount of cold air will be forced through the frost but that will not be enough to make it up to the refrigerator portion. You can defrost the unit by removing the metal panel and allowing the frost to melt. Careful use of a hairdryer can speed up this process. This will likely be a temporary fix. The root cause of excessive frost can be caused by a bad door seal or a defective defrost circuit.
First check that the door seal is good by closing the door on a dollar bill at several points around the door, both on the freezer and refidgerator door. If you can pull the bill out with no resistance, the door is not making a good seal. Inspect the seal and make sure there isn't anything stopping the door from closing such as food, or a shelf not pushed in all the way.
If the door seal is good, the defrost system is likely defective. The defrost system has three main parts, the defrost heater, thermostat, and timer. If either one of the parts fails, the freezer will plug up with frost every few weeks. If you can troubleshoot this by manually starting the defrost cycle. Let me know if you would like this procedure.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you ti figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...
Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
Posted on May 07, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 01, 2015 | LG Refrigerators
Aug 07, 2012 | Kenmore Refrigerators
For this problem, its indicating towards
problem with damper assembly.----------
The working procedure of this unit is as
follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the
freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this
cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the
freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge
section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the
section, in that section the damper is located. ----------- The damper is
operated by a motor.Its a complete damper assembly with motor included in
it.--The damper has door.Which closes and open with the help of motor.In your
case the damper door is remained open, its not closing.Due to this the cool air
from freezer section is running in to fridge section non-stop.Due to this the
vegetables and other food in the bottom drawer freezing.--------- In this
problem the damper assembly needs to be replaced.---------------
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Oct 31, 2011 | Kenmore Refrigerators
Its defrost problem, the freezer should cool,
then freeze, then defrost cycle should start. In your case freezer is cooling,
then freezing, but its not defrosting. That's why fridge section is not
Click this link below and follow the
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech/.
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