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Where can I get Replacement plastic sheath for Kodak P811 photo scanner

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Lost the plastic sheath for

Check out Ambir technology website. They have 2 for $5.00. Shipping is $12 though. A local photoshop (if you can find one) may be able to help.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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SOURCE: Cracked plastic sheath on the motor drive shaft

The shaft is spinning inside the sleeve. So is should not be hard to remove. With a DLC-7SP, I grabbed the spindle with some pliers, channel locks might do well and put a handle of a screwdriver between the pliers and the top deck and pried. Second attempt and it pulled up easily. Place the screwdriver beside one of the top deck screw covers to transfer force directly to the motor. Otherwise top deck would probably break.

Clean the old shaft to remove any contamination.

New one can be driven on with a hammer and block of wood.

Posted on Jan 29, 2011

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: Pictures will not go to

pilipino ba 2 , try mo linisin nang dry cloth or dry paper ung area whre you plug in the memory card make sure its clean because it might be the area whre the memory card is plugged .is not working .Is there any error message .Make sure the card is properly plug in .

Posted on May 22, 2011

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SOURCE: Need help with a Kodak Personal scanner

Kodak is passing the buck. You would think that they could provide a calibration card for their own scanner.

Posted on Jan 02, 2014

hichbiri
  • 3469 Answers

SOURCE: My Kodak P811 scanner will not pull the paper thru.

I would check it there is a kodal service Hodak scanner service centre nearby to be honest...the last thing you want to do with a quality photo scanner is put it back together incorrectly. But I am cautious when it comes to electronic devices.

Posted on Jul 19, 2015

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I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.


To remove the sheath I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately ½ inch sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get ALL of the white plastic off and be sure to remove the ½ inch brass "ring" which is part of the old sheath. Also, make sure no plastic "crumbs" are in the base of the shaft where the new sheath will sit. You will see that the metal shaft has a flat side. With a sharpie marker, mark the metal shaft near the base to indicate where the center of the flat side is.


When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs", these nubs form a flat inner side of the sheath . Unfortunately these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections. Use a sharpie marker to mark the center point of the two inner nubs. The inner flat side HAS to match up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft. The marker helps you do that.

Line the inner flat side of the sheath up with the flat side of the metal shaft and push the sheath on your hand as far as it will go. It should go about an inch from the base.

Put the base on a mat on the floor ( you don't want to damage your floor) . Next you will need a hammer, piece of 2x4 wood and BRUTE STRENGHT! - Please note that once you hammer this, even just one strike and the sheath will NOT come off. Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath. Using more force than you think you should need - strike the wood to hammer the sheath all the way down. It should take 3 - 5 very hard strikes. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it. Again, it takes a LOT

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