Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the exach reason for this problem is listed here please know the problem
Compressor won't run or it is "clicking' on and off: This normally could be a bad start relay and over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, condenser fan motor is not running or the compressor itself. To check the compressor properly you should test it with an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps ( see model/serial tag or the sticker on the compressor )...if the compressor is drawing too much current, this may be why it is shutting off. Check the model tag for proper amp rating. Some relays will be easy to notice the broken with them, they may be burnt. Example one, example two, example three. Some of these relays can be removed and give them a little shake, and if they rattle around inside the relay is likely bad. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok and you want to install a replacement start relay. You will need to find out which winding is which. You will need an ohm meter to determine the windings. First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding. Using the original style relay is always preferred, but using a general replacement can "get you by" if needed
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called a yoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
SOURCE: Not cooling
Cooling fan, behind internal plasic panel is frozen up, happens with me regularly, self defrost function not working properly, i'm just fixing mine as I write. I have found that bottom drain hole was all full of ice also. Have cleared with anti-freeze/hot water till runs through. Take out all shelves, remove back panel, there are screws behind chrome bezel and also inde-odoriser recesses (those two square plastic covers). Unscrew plastic water chiller, be careful not to damage pipes. Remove the back platic moulding, unclipping wire connectors and cooling fan is fastened to back, it will be frozen up with ice! I use hair dryer/ de-icer to thaw, dry off as much as possible. Beware, moulding is mainly polystyrene, i.e fragile. I suspect that I keep getting problems because I didn't clear out the bottom drain hole, so it did not defrost. Tell tale sign is noisy fan (hitting ice) which eventually freezes up and stops blowing cold air which causes fridge to stop cooling, compressor still works though!
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
The compressor relay is bad on the main control board . Unplug the refrig and pull the refrig out and remove the 8X10 small panel on the back . You will see a blue plug with 3 larger (120v) wires going to it . Remove this plug . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . (this is on the plug NOT the board ) . Using a short piece of insulated wire , with about 1/4" stripped off both ends , insert 1 end into wire1 and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . This will start the compressor to verify the main control board is bad . Pt # WR55X10942 .
Posted on Aug 20, 2010
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