Question about Refrigerators

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The freezer part of the fridge is working, but the fridge section seems to not be cooling well. The thermostat is almost all the way to the max of 7. What could it be - the thermostat?

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Hi Angela,depending on the style of refrigerator you have it could be a couple of different things. Most common problem would be the self defrost system. Probably the defrost thermostat or the defrost heater. Second would be the defrost timer,which would keep it from going into defrost. That would be either a mechanical timer or a computer board. It could also be a failed airflow diverter,which opens and closes to allow cold air to flow into the fresh food section from the freezer. Check the back wall of the freezer,if it's covered with frost then that is definitely a no defrost symptom. Hope that helps.

Posted on Feb 23, 2019

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool fridge freezer ART 462/R.

Is the 8 degrees centigrade? If yes check the freezer fan or for frost at back of freezer...and give me a holler.

Posted on Apr 21, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Warm Fridge Section, Cool freezer section

Problem seems to be solved. I unplugged it for a short time and plugged it back in. I'm guessing it needed to be re-set.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4070 Answers

SOURCE: Creda R335NW Fridge/Freezer. The fridge section

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp


If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer works fridge not cooling on a Danby Designer fridge

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

SOURCE: RV freezer cools, but fridge section doesn't

Sir, To solve this problem, you must open the compressor area at the back bottom of the refrigerator and chek the temperature of the pressure line. If the temperature is between 55celcius to 60 than its ok. Or else you need to change the refrigerant. I suggest you to contact the service authority.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Fridge not working but freezer is. Why?


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If the freezer is getting cold and working properly, but freezer is not the it can be defrost issue.------------------ The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located.--------- Try manual defrost reset procedure: ----
First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. If the same problem occurs then it's defrost problem. The defrost board and the defrost thermostat/heater is not functioning properly and it has to be checked and replaced. The defrost assembly consists of three main parts. The defrost thermostat, the defrost heater and defrost board. Any of the one is not functioning. When thermostat sense the maximum cooling, it triggers the defrost heater to start heating and this defrosts the ice collected on the coils and the system works. Both thermostat and heater are controlled by defrost board. First the thermostat and defrost heater to be checked, if both check ok by meter and visually, then its defrost board causing the problem. You can get required parts from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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My LG fridge/freezer is approximately 7 years old. It has worked fine until two weeks ago, when I noticed the fridge section wasn't very cold and the freezer only seems to be freezing items on the bottom...


Most of the components are within the fridge unlike the older models and at the bottom of the fridge. It is possible that the fault is related to a thermostat or a auto defrost timer issue.
Since the fridge is not defrosting there is heavy frost that is preventing the fan to blow cold air and cool efficiently .
You will need to check the thermostat, auto defrost timer ,heater to confirm the fault.
Finally the poor pumping of compressor or low gas pressure can also reduce cooling.
check the compressor motor speed, check the capacitor.

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We experienced a smilar problem with your Fisher & Paykle fridge/freezer.
The fan that sends cold air to the Fridge section of the appliance didnt appear to be working leaving the Fridge poorly cooled.
I suggest the first step is to turn the fridge off and leave it to totally defrost.
Build up in ice in the freezer section seemed to have an impact on the proper operation of the fan which seems to relie on a thermostat for its operation.
Having defrosted and cleaned the fridge the problem was solved.
The fans have a delay before switching on after the door is closed. Place a magnet over the door sensor switch and wait to see if the fan works.
The problem could be that the unit has iced over itself over a period of time and defrosting it could solve the problem.

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If there is no cooling on the fridge but the freezer is cooling then the compressor and gas pressure seems good. So to check the set for blocks in the ducts we must shut off the fridge.Keep it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
The fan making noise can be due to frost build up .If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
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