Question about Yamaha Ef1000is Gas-powered Inverter Generator

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I have a Yamaha EF1000is and it surges. I have cleaned and checked all interior jets float needle fuel lines muffler and it still surges

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Make sure there are no vacuum leaks on the engine manifold side of carburetor. There are 3 o 4 pieces on the engine side so inspect well.

If no leaks on engine manifold side then likely there's a blockage somewhere in the carburetor high speed circuit. Most economical solution is chinese knock-off for ~$20 US delivered.

If you can't find a cheap replacement then you'll need to do a deeper clean of carburetor by removing welch plugs and submerge in carb cleaner. You will need new welch plugs (kit) and likely kit will cost more than a knock-off carb.

Before tearing down carb, you could try Seafoam fuel treatment... probably less the 50:50 chance it will clear.

Posted on Mar 07, 2019

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  • Master
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Posted on Mar 07, 2019

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the crankcase

This is a common problem. The needle and seat are prone to being held open from debris, old fuel (these days it only takes a month for fuel to start to go bad) and poor mower design. The weight of the fuel from the tank can be enough to overpower the float system with just the slightest "gumming" of the needle seat. Also, if it's equipped with an electrically powered valve on the bottom of the float bowl, this unit can outright fail, get gummed up a bit, or the electrical system have a problem and power is getting to this unit while switched off, leaving it open thus passing fuel. Most likely, replacing the needle and seat, giving the carb a good cleaning will solve your problem, however if there is damage to the seat from age or debris, just install a 2 dollar in line shut off valve available at most retailers. Then just turn the fuel on and off manually. Cheap fix. 2. Drain the oil from the engine, refill with new oil and just a oz. of atf (automatic trans fluid). Crank the engine with plug wire disconnected for 30 sec or so, then connect the plug wire. Start the engine, but only let it run near idle for a minute or so. Drain again, letting the crankcase "air out" with all plugs\dipstick removed. Remaining fuel will evaporate. Refill and your off and cutting......The ATF is a detergent of a type and will help to collect the fuel from the surfaces inside the engine. It's important to note the fuel will have washed any lubrication properties from the oil, and damage to the journals and other surfaces can happen if the engine is run too long. Usually following the above procedure will limit damage and the engine should be good for many more seasons. Good luck! Papa

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: It lobes with or without load. Cleaned airfilter, drained float bowl, checked oil, fresh gas

Try the filter in the gas tank.

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Carbies willn't set float level,right floods,left sets to low

I don't know if its any help but I've fixed my Honda with similar problem. It turns out I reassembled the rich carbys air cut off valve incorrectly. Have you checked yours? I'm wondering if the cut off valves somehow affect the other parts of the carbys. Mine is running sweet now.

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: mower surging

let it surge, it will usually get better as it warms up. These 6.5 Hp engines are fine except they have an cheap badly designed carburator. Nothing can be done about this problem. They all surge eventually.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

  • 1041 Answers

SOURCE: Gilera cougar 125 fuel carb overflow

may be dirt in the tank, or the feed pipe is deteriorated, clean the carb & float needle again and renew feed pipe and fit an in-line filter, ( will only cost a few pounds) it you still have the same problem then it's pretty sure to be the float needle & seat

Posted on May 27, 2010

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1 Answer

I have a EF24000is yamaha that stalls when a load is put on it


Hi, Raimo and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged.
2. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
3. Pilot jet clogged.
4. Faulty accelerator pump.
5. Float level too low.
6. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
7. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged.
8. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted.
9. Intake manifold leak.
10. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
11. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
12. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
13. Multi carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Dec 29, 2016 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

1980 yz 50 won't run with choke off


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Dec 15, 2013 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

My 1996 yamaha yzf600r will attempt to run if i hold my hand over carbs i have took the bowls off and the pilot jets and needles and cleaned them really good and if i dont hold my hand over them and turn...


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Oct 30, 2013 | 1996 Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat

1 Answer

2000 Yamaha WR400 wont run with choke off.


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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May 19, 2012 | 2000 Yamaha WR 400 F

1 Answer

Problems with stalling at low speeds and not idling well


Hi, Jonathan and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged.
2. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
3. Pilot jet clogged.
4. Faulty accelerator pump.
5. Float level too low.
6. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
7. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged.
8. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted.
9. Intake manifold leak.
10. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
11. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
12. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Jan 02, 2012 | 2005 Yamaha yZ 250 F

1 Answer

Bike ticks over on choke but won't run if a touch


Hi, Gerard and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Oct 08, 2011 | 1994 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX

1 Answer

I have a 1986 Yamaha MaximX 700, i have cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner and seafoam, but when i start it, the only way to keep it running is having the choke all the way on and twisting the throttle...


Hi, Caseytkerns and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Aug 11, 2011 | 1986 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim

1 Answer

I have a 5 hp tecumseh on a 22" yard machine snow thrower, the engine will only stay running if the primer bulb is continuously pressed or starting fluid is used


Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and check for fuel flow from the line--it should release a thin stream of fuel. If nothing or just drips, something is plugging the line, shut-off valve, fuel filter, or tank fitting. If fuel does run out, then the carburetor is not taking in fuel. Remove the carburetor from the engine--make notes of where the springs and rods go that operate the throttle. Remove the float bowl and the float needle--make sure the line connection is not plugged going to the needle valve. Check the jets for any plugging. Use spray carburetor cleaner to clean the interior. Hope this helps!

Feb 02, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

8 hp craftsman snow blower starts then stalls out shortly and then cannot restart unit. Also what is sparkplug gap plse


Remove the fuel line at the carburetor to see if fuel will run out--it should run in a thin stream, but if it just drips or nothing comes out, then check the fuel filter, fuel line, and any shut-off valve for plugging. If fuel does flow out, the remove the carburetor and clean the interior with spray carburetor cleaner. Remove the float and float needle--check the passage behind for any plugging. Make sure any screw-in jets are not plugged. Make sure the air cleaner and muffler are not plugged. The spark plug should be about 0.025". Hope this helps!

Jan 03, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

Clogged carburator, how do I get it out to clean?


BEFORE YOU START
Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.
There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve's spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve's tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or veneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

Nov 24, 2009 | 2007 Yamaha V Star Classic

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