Question about Lutron Electrical Supplies
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You will need to return the 3-way dimmer and get a single pole dimmer, as the Lutron Skylark series is suspectible to failure if connected to a live circuit first, or misconnected at intial installation. As an electrician, I ceased using these dimmers years ago, due to the rash of call-backs by customers and went with Leviton togglers and have had excellent results.
If you purchased it at a 'big box' store, they will accept the return as a defective item, as they have national agreements with their suppliers to accept customer returns. Just tell them it didn't work and you want a store credit, you can then purchase the lower priced single pole dimmer you need and save some money in the process too.
Hope you find this Very Helpful - best regards!
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
Testimonial: "I appreciate your help."
Sounds like a loose connection. If they all fo out, it's at the beginning of the circuit. Check all connections at the start of circuit.
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Posted on Sep 02, 2009
Testimonial: "That is very helpful and worth checking out. Thank you. Ben"
The type of track heads you are using could be creating the problem. Are the lamps Par 20, Par 30 (screw in base) or MR-16 low voltage (push in base)? If the track head has a small (2"x4") box and uses MR-16 lamps then you need to use a dimmer specifically designed for ELECTRONIC LOW VOLTAGE. Incandescent lights (screw in base) and Electronic low voltage need a different signal to dim. Using a standard dimmer for electronic low voltage will work for a while, but then either the dimmer or the fixtures will go bad. If your lamps are incandescent or halogen you may have just had a bad dimmer. (Not common for Lutron products) but the part number you list should be good for 1000watts and should not be the issue.
Please see "Dimming Basics" under the helpful information tab for a better explanations of the two different styles of dimming. Hope this helps!
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
If each pendant has an individual transformer that is about the size of a hotwheel then you need a dimmer specifically for ELECTRONIC LOW VOLTAGE. A lot of electricians don't know that the different types of lights require different dimmers. Most store bought dimmers are for incandescent lights only, and some nicer dimmers like the Lutron Maestro's are rated for incandescent or MAGNETIC Low Voltage which require a different Sin wave interuption. I don't know that leviton makes a dimmer in that style for Electronic Low Voltage. You could install a Lutron DVELV300P-Wh, but that is a Decora opening. http://www.lutron.com/CMS400/WorkArea/downloadasset.aspx?id=25437
Here is a link to explain the difference in how the dimmer needs to work. Good luck!
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
Testimonial: "Excellent answer! As Lutron is not available in my small town (on an island in Southeast Alaska) I will likely be ordering a dimmer online. Thanks!"
It may be too late given the date of this post, but the buzzing has nothing to do with the bulbs (usually, dimmers and lamp buzzing are a common problem which is why you probably got the suggestion), but in your case, you have radio-frequency interference from the dimming circuit leaking into the audio circuit. The best things you can do is either minimize the RFI, or separate the audio circuit away from the dimming circuit. Based on what you're saying about the PC input, it sounds like the main culprit is that specific audio wire going between the PC and the sound system - can it be run differently so that its further away from the dimmer/circuit. Are the PC and the dimmer on the same breaker? - If so, maybe noise is radiating from the dimmer into the PC through the power wiring - putting on different breakers could help.
One more note, the best dimmers, in terms of RFI performance, are reverse-phase control dimmers (usually designed for electronic-low-voltage... and be careful because they often get confused with magnetic low-voltage... and those will not help. Without going into too many specifics, the ELV dimmers have a much softer on/off/on/off dimming cycle when compared to standard incandescent dimmers (this is a circuitry thing with a much more complicated explanation), but as a result, they tend to have significantly fewer issues with RFI. They can be an expensive solution for simple problem solving, but the MIRELV-600 should do the trick (again, don't be fooled, the MIRLV-600 is the magnetic low-voltage product, and for what you're doing, won't help).
Posted on Oct 04, 2010
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