Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
issue where washer stops and water won't drain might mean something is in drain area.
look at my issue "eco smart won't drain, smells hot" and see about the sock. I found one of my husband's socks so far down in the tub bottom that I couldn't see it when I looked between plastic outer liner and wash tub. Had to remove black motor/white housing on bottom of machine--which i had to replace cause it burned out. That is when I saw the sock and pulled it out through a quarter-sized hole.
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
dryer's have a long belt that runs around the drum. a common culprit is an idler pulley on the belt tensioner. you can take off the front of the dryer and oil it for a temp fix. it will probably need to be replaced
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Start any cycle. Dryer runs for 10 to 15 minutes, then stops before cycle is complete. Start again, stops again in 10 to 15 minutes.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
My guess is your PC Board (PCB) is shot and needs to be replaced. From the manual: The PCB measures moisture across the sensing bars on the front duct assemby (it is possible, but unlikely that the sensing bars have lint over them which may be causing a problem). As the clothes slide past the bars the PCB reads the current across the bars. When the clothes are dry the current ceases so the PCB advances the timer. There should be a min of 1 M ohm across the bars when dry. The resistance should be lower when mositure tracks across the bars. To test the bars check the resistance when dry, then wet your finger and place it across the bars and check for resistance. Again...it is very unlikely the bars are the problem. More likely it is the PCB. Part Number WE1M418 for the DE09 (similar to the DE08, but check to make sure with your local appliance parts person). How to replace the PCB: Open the console; unscrew and remove the PCB cover; disconnect the PCB connector; unclip PCB from its holding clips. Reassembly is the reverse procedure. NOTE: The PCB is NOT, repeat NOT, the timer!! It is located on the inside of the console on the left hand side of the instrument cluster
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
Let's go to diagnostic test mode to see if you can retrieve the the actuator hence the tube out.
1- Press Lock button and start/pause key until the display showing up.
2- Press Power to show HO.
3- Press start button to advance the display until you see P2 for draining, if you pass, keep doing it to get it back in a loop.
4- When at P2, press lock to turn on, press a again to turn off.
5- Listen to the sound of the pump. If you hear nothing that means the pump is dead or stuck.
6- The Motor has 2 directions: one for, Rinse and one for Drain. When you done with the diagnostic, press the power button to get out of the mode.
7- If this is the case, unplug the power then remove the rack, the bottom stanless steel plate with holes then take out the rotor to clean up. It is a good design the stator is outside of the tube, so you don't have to worry too much about the complication.
8- Make a note of all the positions so you can put them back the same as they were. Good luck
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
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