Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer
The unit will run but no heat is generated. I am trying to find a heating element part to replace the old one but am having problems with the sears sight trying to find it. The model number is 68712894 and is not recognized at the sears website. Thanks
Posted by Anonymous on
Go to www.Sears.com/parts Your model number was not recognized is because you are missing the first 3 numbers. all Kenmore's start with a 110.. so yours would be 11068712894.. your heater element is in the bulkhead pictures. but be careful if it is not heating it may not be your element.. you have 3 main heat sources your element. and two thermostats one is actually connected to your element and the other is on your heater box which is what you will take your element out of... you can take an OHM meter and test for continuity to see which is not giving you any power. if your reading 0ohms you have found your problem... its usually one of those three. the thermostats are in a kit referred to a thermal cutoff kit. also clean the lint screen and the ducts...
Posted on May 25, 2010
Unplug remove back and you can get to everything-mike
Posted on May 22, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore HE4t Dryer - no heat
The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check: 1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST. 2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer. 3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on. 4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad. 5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat. 6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms). 7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up. I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 25, 2007
SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat
The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
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Posted on Dec 11, 2010
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