Briggs & Stratton Electrical Supplies - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


We have a put together a guide here to assist you in these situations. It will guide you through testing and repairing the Generator. :
If you need any further help our Generator Engineers are happy to assist you.

Regards,The Generator Guru Team


Briggs &... | Answered on Apr 05, 2019

Doesn't look like anyone came close to answering this question correctly.While I realise I am answering a VERY old post, a correct answer may help others that come here in the future who are experiencing the same problem.The issue is with the starter clutch. It screws onto the crankshaft and works like a ratchet wrench. It allows the crankshaft to turn freely one way but "catches" if turned the oher.

Most people don't maintain them properly so it gets rusty inside and the bearings don't move like they are supposed to. Hence the clutch doesn't lock.

It's usually a pretty simple fix. Remove the flywheel cover, secure the flywheel so it doesn't turn then use a rubber mallet and a drift to loosen the clutch. It has normal threads so it turns counter clockwise. It should come loose pretty easily. Once off, look at the front of the clutch. There is a cover which is just pressed on. You should be able to get it loose with a hammer and small flat head screwdriver. Carefull you don't loose the bearings (there are 6) which are pretty large. Clean the whole thing out, removing any rust and debris.Then spray the inside with some lite machine oil (don't use grease or any other thick lubricant).

The shaft should have a piece of felt in the center of it. This should also be soaked with machine oil. To reassemble; place the washer and shaft back into the housing, then place a bearing in each "hole". Give it another shot of machine oil and press the cap back on.

Put it back on the engine and replace the cover. You should now have a workng starter. There is a small hole in the front of the clutch. You should periodicaly squirt some oil into it to keep the clutch lubricated.

Briggs &... | Answered on Jan 20, 2019

We can help. :)
Check out our testing video and see how to pinpoint and fix the problem.
If you need more advice we can get you in contact with one of our Generator Engineers to guide you. We do not charge for this service and are happy to assist you throughout the repair.
Kind regards
The Generator Guru Team
Specialist Portable Generator Engineers & Parts Worldwide
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Briggs &... | Answered on Jan 17, 2019

The transfer switch is responsible for starting / stopping the generator. Check your auto - start circuit. It is 2 wires that go between the genset and ATS. They are generally normally open. When the genset is to shut down this circuit needs to change state.

Briggs &... | Answered on Jan 08, 2019

may be a bad breaker or a shorted wiring problem. not generating any power, I would ck. the brushes inside the generator.

Briggs &... | Answered on Mar 30, 2018

Request the instructions directly from Briggs & Stratton

Briggs &... | Answered on Feb 01, 2018

I think that the problem you have is not with the coil.
let me explain : when there is the need to stop the engine simply we push a button or use a lever in both cases what it simply does the coil is grounded to earth this stops the spark supply to the spark plugs . find the cable which connect from the switch on to the coil because this cable
intermits to short to earth stopping the spark going to the spark plug ( replace cable this will prevent the engine to stopping )

Briggs &... | Answered on Jan 03, 2018

The first thing to do is to check and see if it is getting any spark to the plug.
To check for spark, remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug.
Remove the spark plug from the cylinder.
Attach the spark plug wire to the spark plug.
Using insulated tools so you do not get shocked, hold the base of the plug to the bare metal of the engine.
Crank the engine and observe the plug for spark. There should be a bright blue spark jumping the gap of the spark plug.
Is there spark present?
If not, we need to look at the ignition system.
If there is spark, remove the air filter.
While cranking the engine, spray in some gas or carb cleaner - do not use starting fluid.
Will this allow the engine to try and start?
If so, your carburetor is dirty.
As gas gets old, it turns to varnish and clogs up the passageways inside the carburetor, not allowing enough gas to get to the engine.
This condition is cumulative. Every time gas sits, the varnish builds up just a little more, like coats of paint, until eventually gas can not flow. It will not happen overnight, but the symptoms can show up all of a sudden, even while simply stopping to refill with gas.
The use of fuel additives, such as Sta-Bil or Sea Foam will not stop this process from happening. They will greatly slow it down, but the gas will still go bad.
When this happens, either the engine simply will not start, or it will not run without the choke on (this reduces the amount of air getting pulled into the engine, changing the fuel/air mixture), or it will run but surges.
Another issue that varnish in the carb can cause is that the varnish may not allow the float needle to seal properly against the seat, causing the flow of gas to not shut off when the bowl is full. The result will be gas overflowing the carb and running into the cylinder, and possibly out the air intake. If the gas gets into the cylinder, it will seep past the rings and down into the crankcase. This will be evidenced by your oil level being over-full and/or the oil smelling like gas.
The only 2 solutions are to either replace the carburetor or give it a good, thorough cleaning.
When removing the carb, make sure to take a good picture, or make a good drawing of where all springs and linkages are attached. This will make reassembly much easier.
Most people believe that cleaning a carb involves removing the bowl and wiping it out, then spraying some carb cleaner through it.
This is simply insufficient.
To properly clean the carb, you must remove it, disassemble it (making sure to remove all non-metal parts), and soak it in a commercial solvent for several hours. Soaking it overnight is even better.
Then clean all solvent off with a spray type carb cleaner, making sure to get lots of cleaner into every hole and passage there is. Pay special attention to the tiny holes in the bore of the carb, under the throttle plate for the carbs that have these holes. Use lots of cleaner. And make sure to wear safety goggles to avoid getting the over spray into your eyes. There will be over spray.
Dry the carb with low pressure compressed air.
When reassembling the carb, make sure to use a carb kit, when one is available for your carb.
Occasionally, even a good cleaning is not going to be sufficient, and you may end up having to replace the carb anyhow. Be prepared for this.
If spraying in the gas or carb cleaner allows the engine to actually start and run, you will still need to clean the carb - as the idle circuit is most likely restricted.

Briggs &... | Answered on Oct 27, 2017

go to you tube and search generator reflash

Briggs &... | Answered on Oct 22, 2017

sounds like problem with c board still a problem

Briggs &... | Answered on Sep 18, 2017

The toggle switch automatically resets all faults when it is turned to the off position. I would turn the toggle switch off, turn off the breaker on the generator and then turn off all the loads in the house except a few lights. Turn the generator breaker back on, then turn the toggle switch back to automatic. If it starts and stays running, you were overloading the generator. Turn on other loads slowly and keep track of what is on so you don't overload it again. If it still does not stay on, you may have a problem with the panel. Let me know what happens.

Briggs &... | Answered on Sep 07, 2017

You have a fuel delivery issue that can be dealt with by cleaning carb or replacing it. If you do replace carb has to be adjusted to the motor.(idle, mixture)

Briggs &... | Answered on Sep 03, 2017

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