The oil you want is SAE 10W-20. and 445ml if you are changing the oil. It can be more accurately checked with the fork removed and fully compressed and the spring removed, the oil will be 120mm from the top
Hi, Ed the best way to charge a battery is slowly. I like to use this analogy, would you rather be awakened from a deep sleep with gentle nudging or a violent kick in the rear.
1. Remove the battery and check for corroded or damaged terminals clean any dirt, corrosion or electrolyte that is on top of the battery as this will cause premature battery drain, inspect for cracks and swollen/expanded sides which are a sign of overheating and replacement should be seriously considered.
2. Acid plate type batteries should be checked with a hydrometer with recorded readings for each cell to be compared with after charging readings and for sulfation, the cell will appear milky, and incorrect acid level. Fill low levels with distilled water to the upper level and remove acid from overfilled cells with hydrometer until the level is at the upper mark and dispose of acid in the sink mixed with a quart/litre of water.
3. Connect a voltmeter set on the DC scale to the battery and record the reading for comparison after charging.
4. Attach a drain hose that is not pinched, kinked, or plugged to the nipple on acid plate type batteries and let the other end hang into a plastic or styrofoam cup.
5. Connect a 1-2 amp trickle charger that has an automatic charge rate reduction if possible and let charge for 24 hours.
6. After charging recheck each cell with a hydrometer a 100% fully charged cell will have a specific gravity reading of 1.270-1.280 and 1.180-1.190 has only a 25% charge battery should be load tested and considered for replacement if necessary. Reconnect your voltmeter and
any readings in the 10-volt range means you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced. Readings between any 2 cells of 50 points or more indicate the battery has failed and needs to be replaced.
7. No maintenance AGM or GEL batteries need to have a voltmeter reading of 12.8-13 volts for a full 100% charge and 12.2 volts is only a 25% charge and should be load tested and replaced if necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.dairylandinsurance.com/motorcycle/on-the-road/safety/load-testing-motorcycle-battery How to Test Motorcycle Battery Charging System Multimeter or Voltmeter DIY Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water, etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/212114-when-do-rejet-carb.html How To Kawasaki Vulcan VN800 Carburetor clean rebuild 1995 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki VULCAN 1500 CLASSIC Owner Manual
Hi, Terry I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/197665-lifter-tapping-noise.html Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Follow up on valve noise KAWASAKI VN800 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki VN800 Owner Manual