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Mineral and vegetable oil brake fluids became obsolete many years ago apart from a very few exceptions and these were replaced by a universal glycol based type which is virtually the only type available from the majority of retailers.

Early glycol fluids had a relatively low boiling point and have been replaced by types with higher boiling points so currently there is generally two types available - in Europe these are DOT 4 and Dot 5.
DOT 4 is suitable for all clutch and brake systems (apart from a few exceptions) of low and medium performance vehicles and DOT 5 for the braking systems of high performance vehicles. Most people most of the time find DOT 4 a better all-round fluid and because the information surrounding DOT 5 (and 5.1) tends to be vague and suggests at least some are silicone based which can be harmful to some hydraulic seals.

The main problem with glycol based fluids is many braking hydraulic systems are vented to atmosphere and the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. This is why a brake fluid change is part of the modern service and maintenance schedule.

1996 Plymouth... | Answered 3 days ago

call your local library and ask if they offer free access to online auto repair manuals like alldata or mitchell on demand

1995 Plymouth... | Answered on Aug 21, 2019

here is no switch.However, it does have an ASD relay (ASD = Auto Shut Down) that controls both spark and fuel. This relay on your car is in the fuse/relay block under the hood and should be clearly marked as "Shut Down" or "ASD" on the fuse/relay chart on the cover. These are easy to check since there are often several different relays that are the same in that block. Take one from a known good source such as A/C (just make sure the numbers printed on the top of the relay are the same) and swap them to see if it will start.

1999 Plymouth... | Answered on Jul 23, 2019

1. Use a turkey baser to remove all the fluid from the reservoir. It's likely empty already if you did rear lines. Also, pack rags under the reservoir to catch spills.
2. Use a brake line wrench to crack the bleeder valve. (not OPEN, just see if it moves) Attach a 2' pc of surgical tubing to the bleeder. Run it into a jar. Pour 1" of fluid into the jar. I like to duct tape the jar to a board to prevent spills. Tape the tubing to the jar too.
3. Have a buddy sit in the driver seat. Have them tap-tap and hold steady pressure on the brake pedal. (you don't have to KILL it) When they say "K!", you open the bleeder. Note the passage of air bubbles and fluid into the tube. After about 4 seconds, close the bleeder and repeat. The first wheel will take a WHILE. Each after will be a bit quicker. Watch the accumulation and quality of fluid in the jar for a clue as to how you are progressing.
4. Top off the reservoir and repeat for the next wheel. Bleed, RR, LR, RF, LF (generally. some cars vary).

The pumper buddy must know NOT to drive the pedal past the normal distance or else he'll damage the master cylinder and it will have to be replaced. Also, he must know NOT to lift his foot before you close the bleeder, else he'll draw air back into the system. Just keep steady pressure. He'll feel the pedal drop as you open the bleeder each time. Takes PATIENCE.

They sell vacuum bleeders, but they suck. They're cheap tho.

They sell pressure bleeders and they are GOOD if you can find one to fit your car. They're expensive tho, like $60. MOTIVE makes one (I have it). These work by pressurizing the reservoir. That way you can bleed without a buddy. There's two methods with these. You can pour the fresh fluid into the pump and do the whole car without stopping. I find it messy. I like to top off the res and pressurize each wheel. MUCH cleaner.

Both systems work fine tho.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jul 17, 2019

Google Image the schematics and it will show you where it is

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jul 13, 2019

Traditionally the hazard switch is where the direction indicators are switched from the indicator stalk switch and ignition switched supply to battery supplied hazard lights. By 1996 these functions were rapidly being computerised so taking things for granted is definitely unwise.

I strongly suggest you obtain a wiring diagram before getting too involved...

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jul 09, 2019


2000 Plymouth... | Answered on Jun 13, 2019

MAKE SURE THE MAF plug is properly connected at the air filter housing- then check the idle air control motor assy. on the throttle body.Then remove and clean your dirty EGR valve- which is stuck open and allowing EGR at idle...which is not supposed to happen...

1993 Plymouth... | Answered on Jun 10, 2019

You will get the diagram from the given link along with service and repair manual from the given link

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jun 02, 2019

This video will show you exactly where it's located. In front of engine, in thermostat box.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Apr 27, 2019

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