I assume it has a push button for the fuel door. If so then look at the latch that the fuel door grabs on to see if it is broken or stuck on open. If stuck push on it a couple of times and spay it with penetrating oil to loosen. There is other possibilities but let's start there for now. I hope this is helpful.
Check first for leaks by using soap suds over the lines for the high and low of the AC system. An obvious sign of leak is oil coming out of the line or valves or at the AC compressor itself. If there are none then start the engine, set the AC and blower to high and connect the pressure gauge (make sure you have the dual one for the high and low so you can address both at once) and start adding freon.
If you only have a single gauge, have it connected to the low pressure side. See video below for additional reference.
sorry but the 2000 STS does not have a reset for the fuel pump. you will need to run diagnostics on the fuel pump system to find why it is not working, the first thing to do is test for a 2 second power pules to the fuel pump when you turn on the key if there is then replace the pump, if not then it is time to start running some tests on the control circuits.
Yours is just like the one in the picture of the above post. It pushes into the back of the housing on the rail and is held in by a spring clip. To replace the one in the pic, I had to remove the rail from the engine, as there was no access to the spring clip from that angle. You may have more room in the STS. Make sure it's bad first though, because those little things cost $50.
Matchmark the hood hinge-to-hood and remove the hood.
Drain the coolant from the radiator.
Remove the left and right torque struts. Install the left front strut bolt back into the bracket.
Disconnect the radiator hoses at the water crossover. Remove both cooling fans from the engine.
Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt.
Detach the cruise control servo connections and the ISC motor electrical connector.
Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body cam. Disconnect the shift cable from the park/neutral switch. Remove the cable bracket at the transaxle.
Remove the park/neutral switch and disconnect the power brake vacuum hose.
At the rear of the right head, disconnect the cylinder head temperature switch.
Remove the bellhousing bolts.
Remove the ignition coils and remove the spark plug wires.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the oil pan-to-transmission brace. Remove the torque converter splash shield and the four converter-to-flywheel bolts.
Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the oil filter adapter.
Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts and detach the electrical connectors. Move compressor out of way.
Detach the electrical connectors from the left side of the engine and move the harness from behind the exhaust manifold.
Remove the two nuts that secure the motor mount to the engine cradle front crossmember.
Remove the exhaust Y-pipe and remove the right front wheel.
Remove the crankcase to transmission bracket at the transmission tail shaft. Disconnect the knock sensor.
Remove the bolt from the transmission to the cylinder head brace at the cylinder head.
Lower the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel inlet and fuel return lines using special tool J37088 or equivalent.
Detach the injector harness connector and the hoses from the coolant reservoir. Remove the reservoir.
Disconnect the cam position sensor. Disconnect the heater hoses from the water pipes at the front of the right cylinder head.
Disconnect the battery cable from the junction block and remove the retainer at the cylinder head.
Disconnect the starter cable from the junction block.
Disconnect the power steering pump pressure and return lines at the pump. Return power steering line retainer from the right front of the crankcase.
Disconnect the rear oxygen sensor.
Remove the three screws securing the wiring harness retainer to right cam cover and position harness out of the way.
Connect an engine-lifting device to the engine using the support hooks at left and right rear of engine. The torque strut bracket at the left front of the engine should be used as a third lifting hook.
Carefully remove the engine from the vehicle.
Lower the engine into the vehicle. Remove the lifting device.
Install the 4 bell housing bolts and tighten to 75 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Install 2 nuts to the motor mount at the front cradle crossmember. Do not fully tighten.
Install bolt to the cylinder head for transmission brace. Do not fully tighten.
Install the transmission to crankcase bracket with the 4 bolts. Do not fully tighten the bolts.
Tighten the motor mount to cradle crossmember bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the transmission brace bolt and transmission to crankcase bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Install the right front wheel and connect the knock sensor.
Install the exhaust Y-pipe.
Install the 4 torque converter to flywheel bolts and tighten to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Install the converter splash shield and install the transmission to oil pan brace. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Position the A/C compressor in place and install the mounting bolts.
Route the electrical harness along the left side of the engine and connect the connectors.
Connect the oil cooler lines to the oil filter adapter.
Lower the vehicle.
Secure the wiring harness to the right cam cover with the 3 screws.
Connect the rear oxygen sensor and connect the cam position sensor.
Connect the power steering hoses to the pump and secure the return line to the crankcase.
Connect the heater hoses to the water pipes.
Connect the starter and battery cables at the junction box. Secure battery cable with retainer.
Connect and install the coolant reservoir.
Install coils and secure with 4 screws.
Install the serpentine drive belt and connect the injector harness to the FIS harness.
Connect the fuel line connectors. Connect the cylinder head temperature switch to the rear of the right head.
Connect the power brake vacuum line.
Install the park/neutral switch and shift cable. Adjust switch if necessary.
Install the cruise servo and connect the ISC motor.
Connect the throttle cable and install both cooling fans.
Connect the radiator hoses to the water crossover.
Install the torque struts and adjust the preload to zero.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Refill the engine with coolant. Install the hood and install the air cleaner.
Start the engine and check for oil, coolant, or transaxle leaks.
The stability system is the one that controls the body of the car and how it behaves in relation to the road - it uses the brakes and the shocks for that.
If you have hit something so hard the rims were damaged then surely something else in the braking and the suspension was also damaged. Most likely it's one of the air shocks or their position sensor the one that have been damaged - you need to lift the front of the car and thoroughly inspect the front suspension.
This may just be loose vacuum tubes or they may need cleaning. If this has a carb, you may want to have the jet for the idle cleaned out. A cleaning on the throttle may also do the trick. If the car has not been tuned for a while you may want to check on the timing or have it tuned up.
Hi William, The belt that you describe is not timing related or oil pump related, these items are controlled by a timing chain, which is not exposed.
The damage that you describe sounds like the unit got quite hot.
The things that your electrinics do in an overheat is stop firing some cylinders, to lower the temperature.
The nortstar has head bolt issues relating to overheat. In essence the headbolts are screwed into the aluminum block, and those threads pull out. The repair is extremely expensive to do correctly. Just changing head gaskets is a very short term bandaid.... The damaged threads need a threadsert installed, and you have to put a bare block on a machinists bench for that job....just plain ugly....To test for this issue, check for exhaust fumes in the cooling system....Compression gasses push coolant out, heater stops, and eventual overheat, top up with coolant, everything okay until next compression leak event.....
Check if you have antifreeze in the oil, check the oilcap for any condensation etc that would be out of the norm. Example would be any white caked on goop...keep me posted on what you check and I will add more answers as you check.