Disconnect battery first
lift up the truck
Drain transmission liquid
use transmission lifter to raise and lower transmission
unscrew bolts connecting transmission to engine
unscrew bolts connecting transmission to the back of your truck
unscrew bolts connecting transmission to the frame
will come freely. Be careful
Can purchased an adapter kit at Best Buy or Circuit City that is color cordinated with the factory wires for about 12.00. This will go right into the factory plug.
Radio 12v orange + radio harness Radio Ground black - radio harness Radio Ignition dk. green + radio harness Radio Illumination gray (dimmer) + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on N/A Power Antenna N/A LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Passlock 2 Part #: 457G, 555L, or 555T Notes: The Passlock 2 wire colors are yellow, orange/black, and red/white (not used).
In the past I have seen fuel pumps that would run on the bench but wouldn't work in the gas tank. Sometimes you can bang on the gas tank and get the pump to start working, the problem is usually bad brushes. In the past I have cut open an electric fuel pump, those little brushes were wore down to the nub.
If you have good voltage and ground at the fuel pump and no pump action, suspect the fuel pump. Fuel filter is good, I didn't look to see if inline fuel filter? Fuel lines aren't clogged? Don't disconnect any fuel lines unless your sure, no fuel pressure.
Most probable cause is wiring to the rear hatch, particularly at the flexible wiring tubing at the top of the hatch door frame (with the door open). You may have to remove the lower panel on the cabin side of the door to release the lock.
Is the switch lit up , light flashing ? Did you have the system checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes . Should have had this done before replacing parts . TCM ? your replaced the transmission control module ? Or the transfer case shift control module ? If no codes ,check B+ power and grounds for the control module . Find a wiring diagram so you know which wires are what etc.....Videos on youtube on basic automotive electrical testing , testing inputs an outputs for control modules . This system can set a number of codes !
The front axle control circuit consists of a Front Drive Axle Clutch Solenoid which is electronically controlled by the transfer case shift control module. This solenoid opens and closes a vacuum control valve allowing vacuum to apply and release a clutch pack inside the front axle housing. The transfer case shift control module determines whether or not the clutch pack has been applied or released based on a signal from the front axle switch mounted on the front axle housing assembly. The front axle is normally locked or engaged during AUTO 4WD, 4WD HI, and 4WD LO modes. The front axle is unlocked or disengaged only during 2 HI or neutral modes.
The NVG 236/246 transfer case features a 4 button shift control switch located on the instrument panel. When the vehicle has the ignition key in the RUN position, the transfer case shift control module starts monitoring the transfer case shift control switch to determine if the driver desires a new mode/gear position. At a single press of the transfer case shift control switch, the lamp of the new desired position will begin flashing to inform the driver that the transfer case shift control module has received the request for a new mode/gear position. The lamp will continue to flash until all shifting criteria has been met and the new mode/gear position has been reached, or has been engaged. Once the new mode/gear position is fully active, the switch indicator lamp for the new position will remain ON constantly.
The NVG 233 transfer case features a 3 button shift control switch, located on the instrument panel. When the ignition is in the RUN position, the transfer case shift control module starts monitoring the transfer case shift control switch, to determine if a new mode/gear position has been selected. At a single press of the transfer case shift control switch, the lamp of the new position begins flashing to inform the driver that the transfer case shift control module has received the request for a new mode/gear position. The lamp continues to flash until all shifting criteria has been met and the new mode/gear position has been reached, or has engaged. Once the new mode/gear position is fully active, the switch indicator lamp for the new position remains ON constantly.
Which 4X4 system does your's have ? Three or four button ?
Can you post the fuel pressure spec for us? You have the spider fuel system? When you use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, with the key off will the pressure hold for a bit? If it drops like a rock, you have a fuel pressure leak.
Smell of the crankcase oil dipstick, does it smell like gas? If so, either you don't change your oil and filter very often or you have a fuel leak getting into your crankcase. If the problem is the latter, you fix the problem then change oil and filter as many times as necessary to get rid of the gas.
Check the fuel pressure regulator and vac line.
What all did the
mechanic check ? Just codes . Did the mechanic check engine sensor data paramitors ?
DEFINITION: The engine runs unevenly during idle. If the condition is severe, the engine or the vehicle may shake. The engine idle speed may vary in RPM. Either condition can be severe enough to stall the engine.
Refer to Symptoms - Engine Controls .
• Check the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S).
Check for silicon contamination from fuel or from an improperly-used sealant. The sensor will have a white powdery coating. The sensor will produce a high but false signal voltage, or indicate a rich exhaust. The control module will reduce the amount of fuel delivered to the engine, causing a severe driveability problem.
• Check the throttle position (TP) sensor. If a sticking throttle shaft or binding linkage causes a high TP sensor open throttle indication, the control module will not control the idle. Monitor the TP sensor voltage. A scan tool or voltmeter should read less than 0.85 volts with the throttle closed.
• Check the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor using the scan tool in order to compare the engine coolant temperature with the ambient air temperature on a cold engine. If the coolant temperature reading is more than 5 degrees more than or less than the ambient air temperature on a cold engine, check for a high resistance in the coolant sensor circuit or the sensor itself.
• Check the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor response and accuracy.
Fuel System Checks
• Check the fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .
• Check to determine if a rich or lean system causes the condition. Drive the vehicle at the speed of the complaint. Monitoring the fuel trim will help to identify the problem.
- Lean--The long term fuel trim is more than 150.
- Rich--The long term fuel trim is less than 115.
• Perform the fuel injector balance test. Refer to Fuel Injector Balance Test with Tech 2 .
• Check the fuel injector driver circuit.
1. Disconnect the injector harness connector at the injectors.
2. Connect an injector test lamp between the terminals of each injector connector and note the lamp while cranking.
3. If the test lamp fails to blink at any connector, the test lamp has a faulty injector drive circuit harness, connector, or terminal.
• Perform the fuel injector coil test. Refer to Fuel Injector Solenoid Coil Test .
• Check the evaporative emission (EVAP) control system.
Ignition System Checks
• Check the ignition output using the J 26792 Spark Tester or the equivalent. Refer to Distributor Ignition (DI) System Diagnosis .
• Check for the following conditions:
- Wet plugs
- Improper gap
- Burned electrodes
- Blistered insulators
- Heavy deposits
• Check the spark plug wires by connecting a DMM to the ends of each wire in question. If the meter reads over 30,000 ohms, then replace the wires.
• Check for vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks can cause a higher than normal idle and low idle air control (IAC) counts.
• Check the IAC operation. Refer to Idle Air Control (IAC) System Diagnosis .
• Check the control module grounds for being clean, tight, and in their proper locations.
• Check the scan tool to determine if the control module is receiving an A/C signal. If a problem exists with the A/C ON, check the A/C system operation.
• Check for the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) being ON while idling which will cause roughness, stalling, and hard starting.
• Check the battery cables and ground straps. The cables and straps should be clean and secure.
• Check the crankcase ventilation valve for proper operation by placing a finger over the inlet hole in the valve end several times. The valve should snap back. If the valve does not snap back, replace the valve.
Note the diagram for blower motor. Note the fuses, not only check the fuses, check the fuse circuit for voltage, use a test lite. Some of those fuses get ignition feed, they go hot with the key on.
You may have to check feed to and from ignition switch when problem is ongoing? Could be problem with ignition switch? Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction.
At the blower motor wire connector, purple wire is voltage, black is ground.