Wow your kidding me it's 1 of 3 things vacuum lines broken ///idle air control valve //// throttle position sensor the check engine light should've been on unless it was and you left it that way till it burned out have the codes read at auto zone then disconnect both battery cables and see if the codes come back after driving for about 50 miles also when you first turn the key to on not start or crank do you see the check engine light lit if not the bulbs burnt out and how come the codes were never attempted to be read before ?this is very obvious and I have to ask who's doing your work oh boy what a rip anything sets codes oh well have fun
Check all major grounding points clean all with brush or grinder and use vaseline on connection points. This will include the motor to chassis ground as well as battery to frame ground (very important).
The fuel pump is suspect but I believe there's also a fuel filter inline on the underside of the drivers side chassis. Fuel works off pressure so if the filter is clogged, the pressure remains between the fuel tank and the filter. Once the fuel has siphoned off between the filter and injectors, it dies but because there's positive pressure at the fuel pump, it won't come on until the pressure slowly seeps past the clog after hours. It's worth a look!
sounds like there is something bound up in the door panel, or the lock/unlock solenoid is sticking, either way seems you need to get the door panel off and visually inspect what is happening when you lock unlock the door. you will have to use a slim jim (not the delicious spicy meat snack) to manually release the door lock mechanism and over power the jam that seems to be either in the solenoid or the lock button connection to the latch, it is tricky so you will have to use a locksmith unless you are proficient with lockout tools. then get the panel off and investigate the mechanism further.
not sure if this is the problem but I would check the light switch and if the brake lights are not working I would suspect the brake switch over the pedal. check the bulbs first and make sure they don't have any broken ground wires from the light. easy to check with a volt meter and connect the test lead to the wire to the bulb and connect to a good ground.
A washer pump in a car's windshield wiping system moves washer fluid from a reservoir through hoses. The motorized pump pressurizes the fluid to allow it to be squirted from the hoses through nozzles onto the front and/or rear windshield of a car. The washer fluid helps windshield wipers get rid of rain, dirt, or other objects that can interfere with a driver's visibility. If your washer fluid is not being sent out when activated, the solution could simply be filling the washer system's reservoir with more fluid or cleaning the nozzles and hoses. In more severe cases, the washer pump may need to be replaced. Here are steps to troubleshoot a windshield-washer pump.
just the ball joint
check -if the ball joint is riveted into the lower control arm, it will be necessary to grind the rivet heads then punch out the rivets
replacement ball joints should come with the bolts needed to replace the rivets
some lower control arms have the ball joints pressed in so it is necessary to press out the old ball joint then press in the new unit