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Unfortunately, it sounds like your HVAC control module is failing. You can try a reset by removing the negative battery lead (under the rear seat) for about 10 minutes, and then reconnecting it, but if that doesn't work, you will probably have to replace the module.
Try what Wyatt says ..put key in ignition . turn to on position for about 15 min. Turn ignition to off (not lock). then turn on and start. This will override the theft ignition system , and maybe allow the system to reset itself. let the car run for about 10 min
latch mechanism is probably motorized. Gently pushing the trunk lid down slides the lid/latch bar into the mechanism. this pushes a tab inside the motorized latch and the drive motor pulls the lid down tight and secure. you may be able to test the latch mechanism by sliding a pen or screwdriver into the latch groove to simulate the lid coming down. if you see the motor drive engage, and pull down the tool, you at least know this is working.
Remove the power window switch module - use a 1/2" wide flat bladed tool to pry up on the rear edge. Then CAREFULLY push in to disengage the clip and pull up. Disconnect the electrical. Remove the trim panel - there are two screws under the the covers at the ends of the door handle, and one behind the inside opener handle cover. BE VERY CAREFULL not to damage these covers. Gently release the retainer tabs located all around the door panel, and lift up to remove..
to check for leaks go to an accredited radiator shop and have a pressure test done --check that there are no air locks in the system
the transmission could be the problem as the transmission oil cooler is in one of the radiator tanks
when idling there is no torque in the transmission but when travelling the transmission is under load
IT might be advisable to go to an accredited auto transmission shop
have an oil change done and have the bands and clutch packs adjusted
the pan has to come off to do that and if there is a problem in the transmission , there will be signs in the transmission pan
That sounds like the tensioner wheel is not holding the serpentine belt tight enough to get full contact with the alternator. The spring on the tensioner arm can get weak. The whole arm and wheel is probably under $100.
They might sell the spring separately for very cheap.
Park/Neutral Position Switch
On LH of Transmission, near base of rear Engine Lift Hook
Do you know what a Starter Enable Relay is ? Location
Forward of LH front Strut Tower, near Engine Compartment Fuse/Relay Center
Did you test the circuit or are you guessing that is the problem ? Do you even know how the starter circuit works ?
When the ignition switch is turned to the START position and the gear selector is in PARK or NEUTRAL, battery voltage is supplied to the starter enable relay coil along the following pathway:
From the BATT 2 fuse
Through RED (342)
To the ignition switch
To YEL (5)
To the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch
To (YEL 1737)
To the starter enable relay coil
At the same time, a start request is sent by the PASS-Key® II input to the instrument panel cluster (IPC).If the IPC senses correct Pass-Key® II system resistance, the IPC then energizes the starter enable relay by grounding one side of the relay coil. (Refer to Section 8A-133 for PASS-Key® II circuit description.)
Once the starter enable relay is energized, the normally open contacts close, completing the following circuit:
• From the BATT1 fuse
• Through RED (142)
• To the closed relay contacts
• To PPL (6)
• To the starter solenoid
It sounds very much like the rear knuckle bushings. You can check them by having the car on the ground and pulling/push at the top of the tire. If they are bad, you will hear and feel how the rim seems to move independently of the car. The replacement is very simple and relatively inexpensive (about $120 for all 4 of them) if done by your self. The below video should make it a very simple process for you