Question about 1985 Toyota Tercel
Just started today; maybe building for awhile. starts up reliably and fine, as always. but when i go to accelerate, the car shudders and shakes. i had to limp it home and to auto parts store. when i give it a lot of gas and get the RPMs up high, i can shift gears without too much loss of power and shuddering, but i really have to rev it. reverse is fine. right now it's parked. took to auto parts store, got spark plugs for it. guy there said if it's a bad cylinder to forget it and just give up on the car. advice? i have very little money - hence the car's poor condition to begin with. but if i ever won the lottery i'd rebuild the car, that's how much i love it. idle is really low too; i often stall when i get to the bottom of a hill and lately that has got worse (which may have been a lead-up to its current problems.)
Hi Sadie, I believe what you mean by shaking is that the engine is misfiring. Did it make any difference when you replaced the spark plugs? What engine is it in the car? 2A, 3A, 4A? or is it one of the E series engines? Lt me know as many technical details as possible? As the car is of a particular vintage when carburetors were in common use, what is yours equipped with, a carburetor or fuel injection? Does it have contact breakers and a condenser int he distributor or is it equipped with an electronic ignition system? Before we go onto the steering and suspension, we'll concentrate on the engine. It would be foolish to sort those if the vehicle is not able to move from point A to point B. Regards John
Posted on Aug 25, 2012
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Won't idle after battery change... SOLVED! well, for me anyway. :)
I just experienced the same problem on my 2002 tundra last night, and fixed it this morning after sleeping on the problem. Here's how it went.
I cleaned the terminals, etc., and replaced the battery, as it was 7yo and old and on the verge of failing.
Immediately after this, the truck would start right up but the idle would drop to about 100 RPM, then slower and slower, and eventually stall. Every time.
I warmed it up and drove around the neighborhood for about 45 minutes, thinking the computer needed to re-learn it's Idle settings, etc... No change.
This morning, I decided to go after the cheap and easy fixes first...
Inspect throttle body... it was filthy full of black sticky dirty/sludgy stuff. I cleaned it off using a rag and some brake cleaner. DID NOT spray brake cleaner IN the opening; just on the rag and then wiped all of the gunk out of the opening, butterfly, and inside as far as my fingers would reach with the butterfly open.
Reassembled everything, started truck... runs perfectly.
Dead battery? Won't run? Dirty throttle body? How do these all tie together?! Here's why (to the best of my understanding).
Over the past 65k miles, dirt and gunk slowly but surely builds up in the throttle body. At some point, the computer senses that this affects the air/fuel mixture or something of this nature. The computer compensates for this, and stores it to it's memory. Sometime during the vehicles lifetime, the battery fails or is disconnected. The compensation settings that the computer stored are lost when the power is disconnected, so the next time the engine is started it's telling everything to behave as default... but the car isn't in a default state, there's **** in the throttle body... or a bad sensor, etc.
I could be way off, but my gut feeling is that this is correct. My advice: Pull the intake tube off the front of the engine and clean the gunk out of the throttle body. It should be the first thing to try, since it's the cheapest and easiest thing that I can think of.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
Have you pulled out the spark plugs to see if there are any tell tale signs on them.They are a good indicator of many problems that occur and can save a lot of time isolating the problem.They should all be the same colour.Is the air box and lid properly secured with no leaks or splits in the intake tube.Have you put injector cleaner in the fuel tank to clear up any possible dirty injectors.Therse a few things your problem could be including engine vacuum leak which you can find by lightly spraying carburettor cleaner around suspect places such as inlet manifold and around injector seals.
Posted on Oct 24, 2008
Check the timing and compression of the engine. It sounds like you either have a blown head gasket or a the timing jumped.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Aug 29, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Dec 04, 2017 | 2005 Subaru Forester 2.5
Jul 17, 2010 | 1995 Buick Regal
Jan 04, 2010 | 2000 Volkswagen Beetle
Mar 07, 2018 | 1998 Subaru Legacy
Sep 28, 2009 | 1989 Chevrolet Camaro
May 06, 2012 | 1985 Toyota Tercel
3,263 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: