Question about 1985 GMC S-15

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Magnet shavings inside distributor cap

Pulled my dizzy cap off and found metal shavings inside. my engine also has a hesitation while under load. are these shavings normal?

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Don't listen to (wisslindixy) clearly uneducated. your engine is not shot just because of metal shavings under the cap.Take the cap off and see if the distributor shaft has any play If it does that's were the metal shavings are coming from. It's a worn out bearing in the distributor shaft

Posted on Sep 11, 2017


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. No they are not . It indicates that the distributor shaft is either bent or loose on the drive shaft. allowing the rotor button to touch the pins in the cap. It may also indicate that the mechanical advance is failing.

Posted on Jan 23, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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SOURCE: Engine started overheating then, really loud

As you've already realised, this is serious. The engine is more than likely totally shot. Maybe a broken valve and punched a hole in a piston. Broken piston rod maybe. It's been overheated and also probably blown the head gasket and warped a head. You're looking at a complete engine re-build already. I think I'd just buy a rebuilt long block and start fresh.

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

Randy Ohler

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SOURCE: replaced distributor cap wires and

check air flow threw the engine. Catalytic converter could be clogged up. And when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? Replace this first

Posted on Aug 06, 2011

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I own a 1987 chevy iroc z28 and have found metal shavings on my dipstick will i need to replace my engine or can that be fixed

Does it burn oil, smell oil filler cap for burnt oil smell, dipstick must be magnetized, unusual. Safest for you to drop the oil in a long clean tray for inspection, be careful of sump plug as it should also have shavings, note if shavings are small and short, if long, then bearings are seriously in danger, flush engine with quality engine oil flush fluid, put new quality oil in and filter, run engine for around 250 miles and re inspect, dipstick, sump plug, and oil, if significant shavings are found, change all mains and con-rod bearings, if hardly any or none, reuse oil and check after about 1000 miles.

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well, to answer this we must know history, even the FSM states this.
its a toy engine so you have all facts online to match that engine.
1: it was wrong all along. timing ?
2: it was ok, time wise and want to just swap it out. ?

ILL shoot for the moon here, go easy way, #2
mark all wires. 1,2,3,4 (1 is water pump side, 4 is tranny side.0
mark cap terms too.
now transfer marks from old cap diz to new.
now remove cap on old
put crank at TDC such that #1 cap tower is at #1 wire.
this is called TDC #1 firing. (crank pulley marks are as FSM shows
then remove dizzy.
drop in new dizzy such that rotor still aligns with #1 cap tower term marked above.
clamp down dizzy
now do fine timing set running per FSM.

all this is at and for if #1 is true, all wrong to start.

the above works for all dizzy cars made, mostly.

all this and more here.
vast info, all free too.

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With limited information , I would have to say start with checking, all fuses under the dash first.then check to see if its getting fuel , and if theres spark. The easiest way i found to do this is to take the top of the air cleaner off via the wing nut or bolt in the center, set aside ,use a flashlight to look into the tbi unit which looks like a carborator,stand on side of vehicle keep hands and face back as to not get hurt, and have someone turn the engine over, as its cranking there should be fuel squirting into the venturi to go into the engine if not possible bad fuel pump. to check for spark the safest way is to use a spark tester found at your local auto parts dealer or tool store harbor freight for $3.00, you unplug any of your spark plug wires plug it into wire and onto the spark plug, and again have someone crank the engine over, if no spark check all elecrical connections, if good check distributor cap and rotor which is behind the aircleaner, remove the aircleaner housing noting where the hoses went that you unhook set aside, theres two bolts on the sides of the cap i think there either 6 or 7 mm gently pull cap up being careful not to unhook the plug wires, turn sideways so you can look inside youll see silver nubs 6 for 6 cylinder 8 for 8 cylinder should be clean if not replace, also youll notice a plastic disk that spins inside the cap still attached to the distributor should have a small spring like peice of metal in center also should be clean and a little metal tab sticking out one end this should be clean as well , if these are all good then possible bad distributor control module its under the rotor two small bolts hold it in place and it plugs into your wiring harness. to reasseble just start here and read upward. pictures 1st distributor cap and rotor, 2nd is distributor control module, third the air cleaner assembly 4th is the tbi unit
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