Question about 2002 Jeep Wrangler
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1988 jeep wrangler no fuel
check your fuel pump relay and your ignition switch those numbers you gave for voltage are not right, please recheck that you have a ground and 12volts at the pump while cranking please rate -jeff
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
if you buy your radio from a reputable dealer he will have the correct wiring adapters and mounting hardware for your vehicle. with the correct equipment it will be a breeze
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
SOURCE: 1990 Jeep wrangler no start
Are you check fault codes there? First check, no crank or no start condition is an easy thing to diagnose. Beyond the battery
stuff, you need to know if power is at the starter solenoid, and being
switched to the starter motor with the key in the crank position. Rrequires two people and a test light. If power goes to the starter
motor, and no crank, then starter is bad. If no power there, then there's
issues with wiring, fuses, ignition switch, clutch switch and so on.
Remember the basics for no start issues. An engine needs three things to run normal:
At some point, your not getting one of those three things. First, isolate the problem. Will it crank over? If not, probably battery or connections, or locked up starter, etc...
It will crank but not start - very common. Crank it over for a few seconds and pull one spark plug, is it wet with gas? If no, then your not getting fuel. If yes, your not getting spark. Test for spark with the plug out, if no spark, focus on the electrical systems. If there is spark, focus on the fuel system. This narrows your troubleshooting by 50% to not waist time.
Based on spark or no spark, you should be able to continue troubleshooting each system. For no spark, check coil, check wires, check ignition, check grounds, test each component, check for wore wires sparking on the block before it hits the plug, change plugs, change distributor cap and rotor, etc... Somewhere, there will be a breakdown in the system.
For no fuel, check your fuel pump (does it growl when you hit the key to on?), fuel filters, power to the injectors, fuel lines, etc...
In the rare case that you do have spark, and you still have a wet spark plug, there is most likely water in the fuel system or your plugs are fouled and should be replaced.
Just the basics I can think of off the top of my head... Most of the no start issues I encounter are either an old battery that will not keep a charge anymore (usually older than five years) or loose cables. Loose cables and dirty terminal connections make up about 90% of the problems with starting. ALWAYS check those first, pull 'em off the battery and clean with sandpaper or a wire brush to ruff 'em up really good. Same inside the terminal connector then lock 'em down.
You need to do a little investigating. Run it for a while to get the engine warmed up, then shut it off somewhere that you have some test equipment and help available. Make sure it won't start, then spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while a helpe tries to start the engine. If it starts briefly you know that there is a problem with fuel delivery and you can start checking out the filter, fuel pump, relays and electrical circuits that feed the fuel pump. Remember that even NEW fuel pumpscan have a problem so don't rule out that one.
If it WON'T start with the help of starting fluid, pull a sparkplug wire and connect it to a spare sparkplug. Set the spare sparkplug with the wire attached on a metal part of the engine and have your helper try to start it again. If you don't have a nice, strong spark, you know there is a problem in the ignition somewhere. If there isn't a spark, check the coil input. Connect one end of a volt meter to ground and the other end to the coil input. One side of the coil input should have constant voltage, the other side should be intermittent while the engine is cranked by your helper. If you're getting voltage TO the coil and intermittent voltage on the other side, but no spark, you probably have a bad coil that fails when it gets hot.
Posted on May 29, 2010
Hi, I'm not sure these are related. The first is your throttle position sensor. This tells the engine how hard you are pushing on the accelerator. The second code is random misfire., which I've never seen caused by the TPS. That said, I would fix the TPS first. Check the wiring and connector for any issues. If the wiring looks good, I would replace it and calibrate the new sensor. If this doesn't clear up the code 300, please read my post on misfires for additional troubleshooting steps: https://www.fixya.com/cars/r6715318-causes_gasoline_engine_misfires . These are generic instructions.
Trouble Code: P0123
TP Sensor Circuit High Input
TP Sensor sweep TP Sensor ground circuit is open TP Sensor signal circuit is open or is shorted to VREF (5v) TP Sensor is damaged or has failed (an internal open circuit) Possible intermittent condition PCM has failed
Trouble Code: P0300
Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP system Base engine mechanical fault that affects two or more cylinders Erratic or interrupted CKP or CMP Sensor signals Fuel delivery component fault that affects two or more cylinders (i.e., a contaminated, dirty or sticking fuel injector) Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in two or more cylinders Vehicle driven with low fuel pressure or while very low on fuel
Posted on Feb 22, 2011
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