Question about 2003 Jeep Liberty

2 Answers

Why do I have to apply excessive pressure to the brake pedal?

Posted by on

Ad

2 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Jeep Master
  • 3,469 Answers

Brakes need servicing. They may need bleeding or the fluid reservoir might need topping up.It is also possible that there is an issue with the servo or that the friction materials, the pads shoes disks, need replacement. This seems to require the services of a decent garage.

Posted on Jun 01, 2015

Ad

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Jeep Master
  • 10,875 Answers

Driving too fast,need to fill master cylinder,water in brake fluid,air in lines,,,,,,,

Posted on Jun 01, 2015

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Brake lights 98z71.New brake switch,but when brakes applied switch doesn't activate.I can apply pressure on switch and press pedal i then have brake lights.Y won't switch engade pressing pedal?


try adjusting the switch away from the pedal as it requires to be free when the pedal is moved so that the contacts in the switch can activate and turn on the lights.

Sep 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ford transit van has spongy brake pedal


FORD Technical Service Bulletin PERCEIVED EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL MAY BE FELT WHILST VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND ENGINE IS AT IDLE. IF A CONSTANT FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE BRAKE PEDAL IN THE CONDITIONS ABOVE, THE BRAKE PEDAL MOVES SLOWLY TOWARDS THE FLOOR. THIS IS NOT A FAULT BUT IS A CHARACTERISTIC OF A TANDEM BOOSTER. NO PARTS REQUIRE CHANGING DUE TO THIS BEHAVIOR

Aug 09, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake system


You have a leaking brake line or Caliper. You need to fix the hole by replacing parts.

Jun 19, 2013 | 1996 Mercury Mystique

1 Answer

Brake lights wont work when pressure is applied


brake switch needs adjustment if it works with slight pressure on the pedal readjust it where it needs to be..

Feb 09, 2013 | 1999 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

2009 Dodge Caliber - The ABS & Brake Light came on as well as the feeling/sensation of the brake being applied very hard for a split second.


take it to an accredited brake specialist shop
I suspect that the brake booster is becoming defective and the small application to the pedal causes excessive booster reaction
the abs section only maintains applied brake fluid pressure as set by the position of the pedal
that is to maintain the pressure as the stopping and start movement of a skidding wheel opens and closes a valve to that wheel /s
if you are on ice that sudden hard braking will cause the wheels to lock and immediately the abs cuts in to allow the wheels to turn and then to allow brake action to be reapplied
if the abs is working under brakes you will get a pulsating feeling under your foot as the fluid pressure is alternation between full on and released by the abs valves

Apr 01, 2017 | 2009 Dodge Caliber 2.0

1 Answer

Metal on metal noise when driving. Sounds like brake noise when brake pads are in need of replacement. Sound goes away when the brake is applied. Car only has 20,000 miles on it (2006).


Hello tgiro7: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. The fact the noise goes away when stepping on the brake pedal says the problem most likely is in the brake area. The pads could be worn out even at 20,000 miles.If the noise sounds like it comes from the front remove the wheels and check the front pads. If the pads are bad most likely the rotors are also bad.Same would apply if the noise emits from the rear. When you have the wheels off check to make sure the calipers will slide in and out on the mount pins. Should they be stuck on binding the pads will wear excessively and prematurely fail. The calipers must move freely on the pins. If you drive with your left foot on the brake pedal? The amount of pressure required to apply the brakes and not stop the vehicle is 1 to 2 pounds of pressure. Wont turn on the brake lights but will put pressure on the calipers. This in turn will wear out the brake pads. Another thing to look at would be an out of adjustment brake switch. Reach down and grab hold of the brake pedal. Give a firm tug on the pedal. Should you feel the pedal give and hear a click or two the switch was set to deep and holding the brakes on.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

Jun 16, 2011 | Chrysler Crossfire Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have an 2004 Alero and I have to replace brakes every 3 months. What is going on?


you need to have the brake hydraulic system checked for the calipers sticking if you have 4 wheel disc brakes as they can seize on the sliding mechanism causing the brakes not to fully release.also if the caliper pistons are sticking in the calipers this will cause the same problem.make sure you or anyone else that drives your car doesn`t drive with 2 feet as just slight pressure from resting your foot on the brake pedal can cause pressure in the system applying the brakes enough to wear them prematurely but not put the brake lights on.cheap parts also will cause excessive wear.

May 25, 2011 | 2004 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

1992 F250 460 cid automatic 2w drive 85000 mi. Just replaced my master cylinder, all 4 brakes, and both front rotors. Afterward I blead the brakes and got bubbles out of fluid. Problem is : when not...


There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

Mar 31, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

2 Answers

1994 dodge 2500 diesel. Put remanfactored calipers and new hoses on the front of this truck. Now I have a soft pedal that if held fades to the floor. Thought the master cyl must have a leak in it. Replaced...


Hi,
sound as if you really do have a problem!
From your description I presume that you are confident in doing your own work?
The quickest way to check your system is to use brake hose clamps to isolate each section of the braking system. I would suggest that you rent or buy a set of the clamps.

Put the truck on axle stands and make sure it's safely secured. ]
If possible have an assistant to sit in the cab and depress the brake pedal on your instructions.
Place a brake hose clamp on both front brake hoses and the rear axle hose.
Depress the brake pedal firmly.
The pedal should have minimum movement, and be rock-solid and you should not be able to depress it further.
If the pedal does go down when you apply it, the likely reason is that the Brake Master Cyl is by-passing internally, ie, only one section is active.

You stated that the M/C had been replaced. so we shall presume that the brake pedal is rock hard.
Go to the rear brake hose clamp and release it. Instruct your assistant to depress the brake pedal. If the brake pedal moves a significant distance, then (a) your rear brake shoes require adjustment (b) rhere is a leaking brake cyl, (check for brake fluid in the drum) or (c) you have a "lazy' or a piston (s) which have siezed during a brake actuation. That problem will require removing the rear brake drums for further inspection. Not the problem? Then adjust the rear brakes if required, then depress the brake pedal again. The downward travel should now be noticeably reduced.

If all is well at the rear brakes. refit the brake hose clamp. Go to the passengers side front brake and have your assistant apply the footbrake. Pedal rockhard/minimun movement? Release the brake hose clamp whilst your assist has pressure on the pedal. spin the front wheel by hand, and note if (a) the brake pedal has excessive downward travel. (b) the brake pads are contacting the brake disc, (the wheel will cease rotating and you will hear the pads contact the disc.)

Pedal displays limited downward travel and pads contact disc? Refit the brake hose clamp and go to drivers side brake and follow the same procedure. If the pedal has excessive downward travel then you have found your inital problem.

If releasing both front brake hose clamps results in excessive brake pedal travel, then the problem will be easier to address if you deal with one side first, complete the resolution, test by using the brake hose clamps, then start / complete the other faulty brake.

Whichever side you start to work on, be methodical, boring as it sounds.
remove the road wheel, but before doing so, place a hand on the top and bottom of the tyre and rock the wheel away from you and check the bearing play. If memory serves me correctly, that year Dodge has the discs in one piece with the hub.

You have removed the wheel. Now, have your assistant turn the steering onto full right lock. Before continuing, I would like to remind you that the vehicle is up on axle stands and you have secured it safely, in order to conform with accepted safety parameters, correct?

The steering is now on full right lock and you can see both disc pads. Now, very carefully check the position of the caliper in relation to the disc pads. Is there and equal spacing on each side? Now, have your assistant release the brake pedal and very carefully observe the travel of the disc pad pistons. They should retract and the hub should turn freely by hand. A very light drag is allowed between disc pad and disc, but it should NOT be discernible when you rotate the hub by hand.

With no pressure on the brake pedal, and using an appropriate tool, attempt to have the caliper pistons retract into their cylinders / bores. Completed? Use caution as it is very easy to break / damage a disc by using undue force when retracting the pistons.

There is now an obvious gap between disc pads and disc (or rotor..sorry) Now, carefully check that the pad guide pins are not deformed and that the pads ride easily on them. if a pad jams when the brakes are applied, then, when the piston retracts, when force is removed from the brake pedal. There is an appreciable gap to close, upon the next application of the brakes!

Some types of disc pad retaining /guide pins are a tight fit, and it is very easy to tilt a pad when fitting the pins, causing the disc pad to fail to retract fully, and again, displayed by a brake pedal with excessive travel.

When the brake pedal is applied, the brake fluid has to fill the caliper piston bores, then exert pressure on the piston to force it against the disc pads, and they in turn are forced into contact with the disc. If the piston has to move an appreciable distance before contacting the disc pad, that takes more brake fluid to fill the bore of the piston, and the master cylinder piston has to travel further,resulting in a brake pedal that displays excessive travel .

I notice that you did not mention the type of effort or number of applications of the brake pedal which resulted in a firm pedal.

If you fitted replacement calipers, can I presume that you fitted new guide pins to the calipers?
Last but not least, (a) are they the correct calipers for the vehicle as regards piston bore size? The brake Master cyl will not be able to fill the bores of the calipers with enough fluid to drive the pistons out to apply the disc pads, if the bores are oversized. The pedal will also display excessive travel.
(b) If the brake master cyl is overfilled, when the brakes are applied, the master cyl will force fluid to the calipers, expand the caliper pistons, but will be unable to release the application to the pistons due to the fluid being unable to return to the master cyl as the allotted reservoir space has been filled with static fluid. When the brake pedal is depressed again, the Master cyl cannot service the caliper pistons on the first stroke as the pistons are locked at full stroke / travel in the bores, resulting in the brake pedal going to the floor, or giving that impression.
HOWEVER, that condition, if the vehicle is driven any distance, will result in the obvious odor of overheated disc brake pads, and the vehicle struggling to display any state of acceleration.
(c) Are they in fact the correct disc brake pads? It would be wise to remove a guide / retainer pin and check for free movement of the pad on the remaining pin. All ok, then refit the pin which you removed and test again. The pads have to be free to move on the pins, and thus align themselves with the face of the disc / rotor when the brakes are applied. Some people coat the pins with never-seeze or hi-temp grease when fitting them, others prefer them to be dry.

In closing, I would recommend that you check the full travel AND RETRACTION of the caliper pistons in their respective bores. It is not unknown for re-built / new parts to be defective.

It would be interesting to hear if any of the above proved to be beneficial in resolving your problem.

Jan 27, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Ram

Not finding what you are looking for?
2003 Jeep Liberty Logo

61 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Jeep Experts

Marvin
Marvin

Level 3 Expert

85206 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22484 Answers

Jonah Oneal

Level 3 Expert

14092 Answers

Are you a Jeep Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...