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Got 2 lines on my crank pulley. 1st is well defined, about 1/8 inch thick and deep. 2nd line is fingernail thick, not nearly as well defined. Which is my timing mark and why 2 lines anyway?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 3,519 Answers

Hi Dave:
Providing the following info might assist us in getting a specific answer for you.
Make
Model
Year
Engine
Fuel
Carb or injection

The thick line will probably be TDC #1 cylinder (up to you to check) and that would be what you use for timing.

Posted on Oct 23, 2015

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Timing belt diagram daewoo nubira 1998


Here are the written instructions, i do not have the pictures, it is a very good set of instructions and clearly written.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Nov 15, 2011 | 1999 Daewoo Nubira

1 Answer

How to fix timimg belt


Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flat-head screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket pry-bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Feb 27, 2011 | 2001 Daewoo Leganza

1 Answer

How do I change the timing belt on my 1991 chevy lumina 3.1?


Things You'll Need:
  • 2 camshaft timing clamps (#J38613-A)
  • Set of metric ½-inch drive sockets
  • Set of metric 3/8-inch drive sockets
  • Set of metric ¼-inch drive sockets
  • ½-inch drive ratchet
  • ½-inch drive air gun
  • ½-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive air gun
  • 3/8-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
  • ¼-inch drive ratchet
  • ¼-inch drive air gun
  • ¼-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
  • Pry bar
  • Common screwdriver
  • Small common screwdriver
  • Small piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long
  • Phillips screwdriver
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    Removing the Timing Belt
  1. Remove the air cleaner, air duct and the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir can remain attached to the hoses---just unbolt it and move it to the side out of your way. Remove the serpentine belt. Before removing the serpentine belt, make sure there is a diagram on the hood or radiator support to show you the belt routing. If the belt routing sticker is missing, sketch out a picture of the belt routing.
  2. Siphon the fluid out of the reservoir of the power steering pump, or be prepared to cap the line ports off. You can cap the line ports off with a piece of rubber hose. Close the open end of the hose with a large bolt. Unbolt the power steering pump from its bracket and set it aside. Cap any open hose ends or pipe fittings. This will prevent additional fluid loss.
  3. Remove the right timing belt cover, spark plug wire cover, left timing belt cover and the ECM harness cover using the ¼-inch tools. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner with the 3/8-inch tools. Unclip the power steering hose from the alternator. Using the ¼-inch tools or the 3/8-inch tools, remove the center timing belt cover and the right and left camshaft covers.
  4. Remove the tensioner side plate. The side plate is located just under the left cams and has three bolts holding it on. The tensioner is hydraulic and includes a plunger unit. Turn the plunger unit to remove it from the pulley arm and socket. Make sure you do not lose the tapered brush that sits between the plunger and the mount. Loosen and remove the tensioner pulley bolt (located at about 10 o'clock on the tensioner pulley). Tape the pulley pivot bushing to the pulley so it doesn't fall out. Remove the pulley and the arm. Remove the timing belt.
  5. Installing the Timing Belt
  6. Bend a thick paper clip so you have a straight piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long. Clamp the tensioner plunger at its center in a vise, with the plunger pointing toward the ground. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes to get the oil into the rubber boot. Remove the plug from the flat base of the plunger and insert a small screwdriver into the vent hole. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the pushrod is retracted. Make sure the pushrod is fully retracted before moving on to the next step.
  7. Push the wire peg you created in Step 1 into the vent hole and turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until you feel the wire peg lock into the pushrod. Fill the plunger with 5W-30 synthetic engine oil to the bottom of the hole. Do not overfill the plunger. Put the plug back on the plunger. Make sure the plug is in securely and the plunger is completely sealed. Wipe the plunger clean of spilled oil.
  8. Clean the tensioner pulley, but do not lubricate it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the number 1 cylinder (front cylinder on the driver's side) is at top dead center and the timing marks on the crank pulley and the block are lined up. Top dead center is achieved when the piston in the number 1 hole reaches its complete height in the rotation. You can feel for this by sticking a screwdriver in number 1 spark plug hole while turning the crank pulley.
  9. Turn all four of the camshaft pulleys so that the machined flats are facing up. Install the timing clamps on each camshaft carrier. Torque the bolt on the timing clamp to 22 foot pounds of torque. If there are any timing marks drawn on the camshaft pulleys, erase them.

  10. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts. Using a rubber hammer, tap each camshaft sprocket to remove any taper. Tighten the sprocket bolts finger-tight. Spin each sprocket to be sure the sprocket turns freely. Make sure there is no back and forth freeplay when the sprockets are being turned.
  11. Install the timing belt starting with the crankshaft pulley. Route the belt to the right guide pulley (as you are facing the engine), then the right exhaust camshaft sprocket, over the top of the right intake camshaft sprocket, then under the center guide pulley, over the left intake camshaft sprocket and over the left exhaust camshaft sprocket. Make sure the timing belt is tight on the right side and loose on the left side (again, as you are facing the engine).
  12. Install the tensioner pulley, making sure the pivot brush does not fall out. Leave it taped or use a magnet to hold it in. Torque the tensioner pulley bolt to 37 foot pounds of torque. Install the tensioner and the side plate. Be sure the pushrod end is seated properly against the tensioner pulley. Torque the side plate retaining bolts to 18 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin and let the plunger extend to its normal position.
  13. Set the torque wrench to 89 foot pounds of torque, then put the torque wrench on the square lug of the tensioner and torque it. This applies initial tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft sprocket three times by hand. This ensures seating of the timing belt and makes sure the engine turns freely without the valves hitting the pistons. Check to be sure the crankshaft pulley timing marks are still lined up.
  14. Torque the bolts on the left camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys to 96 foot pounds of torque. You will need to hold the sprockets to keep them from turning while torquing the bolts. Remove the timing clamp from the left side camshaft carrier. The cams should not move when removing the timing clamp. Turn the crankshaft one complete clockwise rotation and align the crankshaft pulley marks.
  15. Repeat Step 9 for the right camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys, expect when turning the engine, turn it two complete clockwise rotations and align the crankshaft pulley marks. The flat, machined surfaces on the camshafts will be facing up on one side and facing down on the other side.
  16. Mark the left camshaft exhaust pulley at 2 o'clock and the left camshaft intake pulley at 8 o'clock (the marks should be in line with each other) with fingernail polish or heat paint. Mark the right camshaft exhaust pulley at 10 o'clock and the right camshaft intake pulley at 4 o'clock, lining up the marks. Install all components in the reverse order of removal.

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1 Answer

How do you put a timing belt on a 2002 daewoo leganza 2.2 liter engine twin cam and what are the marks?


Here are the full instructions and tools needed.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

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1 Answer

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going from memory....the crank pulley is well marked, the cam pulley has a dowel pin, at 12 o'clock. and the pulley is marked "up" there are horizontal lines at 9 and 3 oclock, these lines line up to the surface of the head that the valve cover rests on, its also marked on the back side of the pulley so its easy to see that its "right on". now the balancer shaft has timing marks and will line up 3 ways but only ONE is correct. a few inches behind the balancer pulley is a plug (12mm head I think) take this plug out, now insert a phillips #2 screwdriver and it should go pretty deep like 3 inches or so, if it does not go in deep, then remove the screwdriver and turn the pulley so it lines up with the marks again, now put the screwdriver back in, it should go deep, if not,turn the pulley another revolution and try again. you will notice that 2 out of the 3 will be shallow, but you want the screwdriver to go in the farthest.it will go, and the timing mark is lined up. now put the balancer belt on and tension the belt, then take the screwdriver out and put the plug back in. now tension the timing belt and your're done. remember to adjust the valves while you have the valve cover off. I'm doing this from memory but It should get you the basic procedure.

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